Oak  Street 
UNCLASSIFIED 


OF  THE 

U N I VERS  ITY 
Of  I LLI  N O I S 


Received  by  bequest  from 
Albert  H.  Lybyer 
Professor  of  History 
University  of  Illinois 
1916-1949 


/ • 


1 


rl /v^v^/Wvx^a^j  nr/^AAjpVc 
v^'t'i  n^: 


LIFE  ON  THE  NILE, 

ANI> 

EXCURSIONS  ON  SHORE, 

BETWEEN  CAIRO  AND  ASOUAN. 

ALSO 

A TOUR  IN  SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE 

IN 

1866 — 67. 


By  Wm.  W.  WARREN. 


SECOND  EDITION. 


BOSTON: 

PRINTED  BY  THE  ADTHOR  FOR  GRATUITOUS  DISTRIBUTION. 

1873. 


Si 

£0Q>3 


PREFACE. 

SECOND  EDITION. 


The  first  Edition  of  this  little  guide  has  been 
entirely  distributed  among  those  persons  going 
up  the  Nile  in  D.ahabeehs. 


Many, — some  of  them  entire  strangers  to  the 
author, — having  expressed  an  appreciation  of  its 
usefulness,  and  it  still  being  called  for  by  others 
desirous  of  trying  „Boat  Life  in  Egypt,”  this 
second  Edition  has  been  ordered  from  the  Prin- 
ters at  Leipsic,  for  gratuitous  distribution,  as  be- 
fore, by  the  American  Bankers  in  Paris,  among 
those  who  propose  to  make  the  trip  in  a Dahabeeh. 

Time  and  circumstances  will  not  allow  a revi- 
sion or  alteration  of  these  letters  as  they  first 
^ appeared,  but  imperfect  as  they  are,  it  is  hoped 
they  may  be  of  practical  value  to  those  for  whom 
A they  were  intended.  Six  years  have  elapsed 
:^3nce  ^ie  fresh  experience  of  the  Author  was 
written,  but  as  changes  are  not  many  in  Egypt 


IV 


PREFACE.  SECOND  EDITION. 


or  the  Holy  Land,  it  is  believed  there  are  none 
of  sufficient  consequence  to  render  these  pages 
less  useful  to  the  Traveller,  than  heretofore,  in 
assisting  him  to  enjoy  u Life  on  the  Nile” 

Boston,  25  Kilby  Street. 

May , 1873 . 


Wm.  W.  Warren. 


PREFATORY  REMARKS. 


The  following  Record  of  a Nile  Voyage  is  a re- 
production with  some  alterations,  of  a series  of  letters 
written  on  board  a Dahabeeh , and  published  in  the 
Boston  Traveller. 

Many  friends  and  others  personally  known  to  me 
about  to  visit  Egypt,  having  expressed  a desire  to 
obtain  a complete  number  of  copies  which  it  was  found 
impossible  to  supply,  and  several  requests  made  for 
a republication  of  them , I have  had  the  complete 
series  reprinted  in  this  form  for  gratuitous  distribu- 
tion, and  to  them  have  added  a transcript  from  my 
journal  of  a subsequent  tour  in  Syria  and  Palestine, 
with  some  additions  in  an  appendix. 

These  letters  were  written  in  a hurried  and  imper- 
fect manner,  owing  to  the  many  occupations  and  en- 
joyments of  the  voyage.  A practical  use  to  others 
being  the  principal  object  of  this  little  work,  it  is 
hoped  its  imperfections  may  be  overlooked. 

Pakis,  October  1867. 


Wm.  W.  Warren. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016  with  funding  from 

University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign  Alternates 


https://archive.org/details/lifeonnileexcursOOwarr 


LETTER  I. 


PRELIMINARY — WHEN  TO  VISIT  EGYPT  — THE  EXPENSE  — 
STEAMERS — LIFE  ON  A DAHAB^EH. 


The  experience  of  a late  date  of  one’s  travel  in 
Egypt,  and  voyage  up  the  Nile,  I found  to  be  so 
valuable  and  rarely  met  with  in  a detailed  form,  that  I 
am  impelled  to  give  my  own,  fresh  from  the  banks  of 
the  great  river,  with  a view  at  least  of  being  of  some 
little  service  to  those  who  intend  making  a winter’s  so- 
journ either  for  pleasure,  health,  or  instruction,  in  this 
wondrous  region.  The  information  mostly  needed  is  that 
which  pertains  to  the  preparation  for,  and  manner,  cost 
and  time  of  carrying  through  intelligently  and  success- 
fully all  the  necessary  details  of  a Nile  voyage.  There  are 
several  well-known  guide  books  and  excellent  popular 
works  on  Egypt,  but  they  are  nearly  all  about  a de- 
cade old.  Great  changes  in  the  prices  and  comforts 
of  a voyage  have  taken  place  in  that  time;  in  the 
prices,  owing  to  the  extensive  and  profitable  cultiva- 
tion of  cotton  during  the  American  Rebellion,  which 
expanded  prices  and  unsettled  values,  though  strange 
to  say,  no  paper  currency  was  issued  in  Egypt.  The 
comforts  have  increased,  there  being  now  a better 
class  and  choice  of  boats. 


1 


2 


LETTER  I. 


I may  be  pardoned  if,  in  the  use  of  many  dry 
details,  I shall  interweave  in  my  letters,  as  our  voyage 
progresses,  descriptive  matter  which,  while  it  repeats 
the  impressions  of  most  of  others  who  have  of  late 
years  preceded  me  in  the  land  of  the  Pharaohs,  will 
interest,  I trust,  some  readers.  If  the  picture  I draw 
should  induce  any  of  my  countrymen  or  women  to  try 
two  or  three  months  of  a winter  here,  and  my  notes 
should  be  of  any  service  to  them,  I shall  feel  well 
repaid  for  this  contribution. 

Two  of  the  books  alluded  to  above  are  the  well 
known  “Murray’s  Hand-Book  for  Egypt,”  last  edition 
published  in  1858  and  about  exhausted,  (a  new  edition 
bas  been  issued  in  1867  since  our  voyage  commenced,)  and 
“The  Austrian  Lloyd’s  Hand-Book  for  Egypt,”  published 
in  Trieste  in  German,  French,  and  English,  excellent, 
being  an  epitome  of  other  guides  and  works  up  to 
1858.  With  the  necessary  corrections  and  additions 
incident  to  the  changes  since  that  period,  it  would 
serve  the  purpose  better  than  any  I know  of.  It  should 
be  remarked,  however,  that  it  was  published  entirely 
in  the  interest  of  that  great  line  of  steamers,  the 
Austrian  Lloyd’s,  the  rivals  to  some  extent  for  passen- 
gers in  the  Mediterranean,  to  the  line  of  the  Message- 
ries  Imperiales.  The  other  guide  books  published  in 
English,  are  “Harper’s”  and  “Bradshaw.”  These  two 
last  being  more  general  and  not  confined  to  Egypt, 
do  not  contain  sufficient  for  the  traveller’s  purpose. 
“Prime’s  Boat-Life  in  Egypt  and  Nubia,”  published  in 
London  and  New -York,  1857,  is  a most  charming 
book,  as  is  also  “The  Crescent  and  the  Cross,” 
by  Elliot  Warburton,  published  in  1850.  “Russel’s 
Ancient  and  Modern  Egypt”  and  “Wilkinson’s  Ancient 


PRELIMINARY — WHEN  TO  VISIT  EGYPT. 


3 


Egyptians”  should  not  be  forgotten  in  the  traveller’s 
budget. 

The  best  time  for  seeing  this  country  depends  much 
on  circumstances,  but  under  any,  must  be  from  1st  Oc- 
tober (when  the  Nile  recedes  from  its  full  height)  to 
1st  April,  when  it  gets  too  low,  and  contrary  winds 
set  in.  The  usual  time  is  between  the  first  of  November 
and  the  first  of  February.  If  the  traveller  is  an  in- 
valid, I should  advise  him  not  to  postpone  the  com- 
mencement of  a three  months’  voyage  to  Second  Cataract 
beyond  middle  of  November,  so  as  to  get  far  south 
enough  to  be  beyond  reach  of  the  cool  nights  of  De- 
cember and  January  in  Lower  Egypt,  which  in  a Nile 
boat  reduces  the  temperature  often  as  low  as  50  de- 
grees toward  morning  till  sunrise.  The  mercury,  rapidly 
rises  by  noon  to  65  or  70,  where  it  remains  till  sunset 
and  slowly  declines.  There  are  no  conveniences  for 
stoves  inside,  but  foot- warmers  filled  with  hot  water 
and  warm  robes  for  an  hour  or  two  in  the  morning 
or  very  late  in  the  evening  will  answer  generally  all 
purposes.  A stove  or  vessel  to  burn  coals  would  be  a 
nuisance,  with  excessive  heat,  gas,  and  smoke.  Nearly 
every  one  going  to  Egypt  in  a Dahabeeh  spends  most 
of  his  time  on  the  Nile,  either  for  health  or  pleasure, 
varying  from  two  to  four  months.  A trip  to  Syria 
and  Palestine  may  easily  be  connected  with,  and 
follow  the  one  here,  in  which  case  it  ought  not  to 
be  undertaken  by  an  invalid  too  soon,  as  the  tempe- 
rature in  passing  the  mountains  would  be  too  low. 
If,  therefore,  the  two  trips  should  be  undertaken  in 
connection  by  an  invalid , he  should  by  15th  No- 
vember start  on  the  voyage  to  Second  Cataract,  allow- 
ing 25  days  for  stoppages,  which  would  occupy  about 

1* 


4 


LETTER  I. 


3 months.  If  only  a voyage  to  the  First  Cataract  is 
undertaken,  I would  advise  to  start  not  later  than  the 
1st  of  December,  and  have  the  option  of  an  unlimited 
number  of  days  in  addition  to  those  specified  in  the 
contract,  for  stopping  in  the  delicious  climate  of  Upper 
Egypt,  by  agreeing  to  pay  a certain  price  pr.  diem. 

Those  seeking  pleasure  only,  can  start  for  the  First 
Cataract  much  later,  according  to  their  time  and  in- 
clination. Most  of  the  fleet  in  1866  left  from  December 
20th  to  January  10th.  The  trip  to  Syria,  if  made 
from  Alexandria,  instead  of  across  the  desert,  should 
be  commenced  from  1st  to  the  15th  of  March,  and 
will  consume  from  30  to  40  days. 

If  that  journey  be  omitted,  the  trip  to  Egypt  may 
be  made  at  a later  date,  especially  if  the  voyage  up 
the  Nile  should  be  abridged  to  the  First  Cataract. 
This  is  situated  at  Assuan,  on  the  boundary  between 
Upper  Egypt  and  Nubia,  and  such  a voyage  embraces 
most  of  the  interesting  objects  on  the  river  for  578 
miles  above  Cairo.  Taking  20  days  for  stoppages,  it 
can  easily  be  accomplished  in  from  50  to  60  days. 
To  the  Second  Cataract,  220  miles  further  up,  the 
traveller  will  witness  the  great  ruin  of  Aboo-Simbel, 
said  to  be  second  only  in  grandeur  to  the  Theban 
ruins. 

The  expense  of  living  in  Cairo  or  on  a Nile  boat  is 
from  75  to  100  per  cent  greater  than  that  laid  down 
in  the  old  guide  books.  The  hotels  in  Cairo  now  charge 
$4  a day,  and  other  things  in  proportion.  A voyage 
up  the  Nile  for  five  or  six  persons  will  cost  $ 6 to  $1 
a day  and  for  three  or  four  about  $9  each.  This  includes 
the  hire  of  boat,  crew,  captain,  steersman,  cook,  boy,  and 
an  additional  cook  and  waiters  for  the  party;  besides 


THE  EXPENSE. 


5 


all  provisions,  except  wines.  It  embraces  also  the  wages 
of  the  dragoman,  and  all  the  hire  of  donkeys,  saddles, 
guides , guards , and  even  the  backsheesh  or  gifts  to 
all  persons,  including  that  to  the  crew,  captain,  ser- 
vants, &c.  It  is  customary  to  put  this  into  the  contract 
with  the  dragoman,  who  provides  the  whole  at  a stated 
price  by  the  month  or  the  trip.  As  the  cost  of  the 
boat,  with  her  captain,  crew,  &c.,  and  the  dragoman, 
amounts  to  nearly  as  much  for  two  or  three  as  for  a 
greater  number  of  travellers,  it  follows  that  the  larger 
the  number  the  less  the  expense  to  each  one.  The  Nile 
boats  for  such  parties  are  called  Dahabeehs,  varying 
in  length  from  70  to  90  feet  and  13  to  15  broad, 
carrying  a crew  of  from  10  to  14  to  manage  sails, 
row,  tow,  or  push  the  boat.  They  are  handsomely 
furnished  with  divans,  tables,  chairs,  drapery,  mirrors, 
pictures,  bedding,  linen,  and  a complete  assortment  of 
kitchen  and  tableware,  silver,  &c.  They  are  constructed  to 
carry  from  two  to  four  persons  each,  comfortably,  though 
there  are  some  now  that  will  equally  accomodate  six  to 
eight.  The  largest  or  heaviest  cannot  go  over  the  First 
Cataract,  which  is  nothing  more  than  a succession  of 
rapids,  through  which  the  boats  are  forced  by  means 
of  ropes  used  by  large  gangs  of  men  employed  there 
for  that  purpose. 

As  much  of  the  pleasure  of  a Nile  voyage  depends 
upon  the  dispositions  and  harmony  of  the  minds  of 
those  composing  a family  thus  brought  and  held  to- 
gether for  two  or  three  months,  it  is  well  to  form 
parties  before  coming  to  Egypt,  and  it  is  sometimes 
difficult  among  so  few  visitors  to  select  just  such  com- 
panions as  are  most  desirable;  besides,  if  a party 
is  arranged  before  arrival,  an  early  selection  of  a 


6 


LETTER  I. 


dragoman  and  boat  according  to  its  number  can  be 
made. 

It  is  proper  to  mention  that  Egyptian  passenger 
steamers  now  make  the  trip  of  the  Nile,  from  Cairo 
to  Assuan  and  back,  in  twenty  days,  giving  brief 
stoppages  at  certain  places  that  they  choose  to  fix 
upon.  The  cost  is  about  £42  the  trip,  including  meals. 
They  are  very  comfortable,  and  are  fitted  up  to  ac- 
commodate about  forty  first-class  passengers.  Only 
those  take  them  who  wish  to  economize  either  time 
or  money,  for  they  do  not  allow  time  enough  for  the 
requisite  sight-seeing,  nor  provide  sufficient  donkeys, 
guides,  saddles,  &c. 

The  charm  of  the  life  on  a Nile  boat  is  not  to  be 
met  with  in  a steamer,  or  in  any  other  way  of  loco- 
motion. It  consists  of  the  traveller  being  a perfect 
monarch  on  his  Dahabeeh,  master  of  her  movements, 
stopping  when  and  where  he  pleases,  with  servants  to 
do  his  bidding.  If  he  is  fond  of  sporting,  myriads  of 
wild  fowl  abound  along  the  banks  of  the  river.  His 
boat  has  besides  all  the  comforts  of  a hotel,  professed 
cooks  that  excite  his  wonder  by  the  variety  and  qua- 
lity of  the  dishes  served  up  by  well-trained  and  pains- 
taking servants.  The  air  is  balsamic,  the  skies  clear, 
such  as  are  only  experienced  in  Egypt;  the  climate  a 
perpetual  spring,  without  a drop  of  rain,  while  the 
insensible  gliding  of  the  boat  along  the  stream,  invites 
to  charming  recreations  in  writing,  drawing,  reading, 
music,  games,  &c.  Such  a home  on  the  Nile,  with  its 
serene  cheerfulness  and  freedom  from  all  restraint, 
has  a charm  and  novelty  for  its  season  without  satiety. 
Cut  off  as  it  were  from  the  world  (except  now  and 
then  meeting  a friend 'afloat),  business,  politics,  cares 


LIFE  ON  A DAHABEEH. 


I 


of  all  kinds,  and  everything  but  country  and  friends 
left  behind,  are  forgotten  in  the  slowly  moving  of  the 
panorama  of  a world  so  full  of  wonder,  containing 
the  monuments  of  an  age  and  people  challenging  the 
admiration  of  every  beholder. 

The  manner  of  preparing  for,  and  carrying  out  a 
Nile  voyage  at  the  present  time,  will  be  developed 
in  the  course  of  the  next  letter. 


LETTER  II. 


THE  PARTY — PREPARATIONS — VOYAGE  TO  AND  ARRIVAL 

AT  ALEXANDRIA — OUR  DRAGOMAN SELECTION  OF 

BOAT  AT  CAIRO PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  VOYAGE 

SIGHT-SEEING. 


Our  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  C.  H.  L., 
Doctor  H.  R.,  and  his  sister  Miss  E.  R.,  together  with 
myself  and  wife,  all  of  Boston,  was  arranged  in  Paris 
shortly  after  our  meeting  together  in  that  city  towards 
the  last  of  October,  1866.  Eleven  years  before,  the 
same  party  had  travelled  together  in  Italy,  and  enjoyed 
with  each  other  the  gondolas  in  the  fair  city  of  Venice. 
I also  had,  with  the  Doctor,  just  afterwards,  made  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  East  as  far  as  the  Black  Sea,  during 
the  close  of  the  Crimean  war.  Our  mutual  desires 
were  to  visit  Egypt  and  the  Holy  Land  together. 
Most  of  us  had  held  this  trip  in  reserve  as  the  climax 
of  our  desires  for  travelling,  the  ultima  thule  of  our 
travels.  Therefore , when  meeting  and  receiving  an 
invitation  to  join  our  old  friends  in  this  trip,  I gladly 
postponed  a winter  in  Algiers  to  be  of  a party  of 
well-tried  and  congenial  companions,  so  essential  to 
the  happiness  and  enjoyment  of  travelling.  The  only 
anticipated  drawback  was  Mrs.  W.’s  aversion  to  3000 
miles  more  of  sea  travel,  such  a distance  from  Paris 
and  home,  and  fearful  forebodings  of  the  pests  of 


THE  PARTY — PREPARATIONS. 


9 


Europe,  to  be  found  perhaps  multiplied  like  the 
plagues  of  Egypt  in  Pharaoh’s  time.  I may  say  in 
advance  that  those  pests  have  diminished  regularly 
since  leaving  the  Mediterranean,  going  South;  and  in 
this  respect,  as  well  as  in  many  others,-  we  have  been 
happily  disappointed. 

Having  made  preparations  in  Paris  in  the  purchase 
of  proper  clothing,  guide  books,  majDS,  field  glasses, 
colored  eye-glasses  with  wire  protectors  for  the  hot 
sun  and  desert  sands  of  Egypt,  medecines,  pistols, 
two  guns  and  sporting  equipments,  &c. ; we  went  to 
Marseilles  to  embark  for  Alexandria  in  the  steamer 
Moeris,  having  engaged  our  passages  and  state  rooms 
in  her  a month  previous  at  the  bureau  of  the  Mes- 
sageries  Imperiales.  Before  leaving,  we  had  an  Ame- 
rican flag  and  our  private  signal  streamer  made  for 
us.  The  latter  was  30  feet  long,  red,  white  and  blue, 
with  the  initials  of  our  party,  R.  W.  L.,  and  with 
three  stars  in  a blue  union.  We  supplied  ourselves 
with  a large  quantity  of  ammunition  fitted  for  our 
guns,  suitable  for  the  great  variety  and  quantity  of 
the  feathered  tribe  abounding  on  the  Nile,  and  some 
potted  oysters,  tomatoes,  salmon,  mince-meat  for  pies, 
all  put  up  in  America,  and  only  found  at  John  S.  Mar- 
tin’s ship  supply  establishment  at  Marseilles.  All  other 
articles  can  be  found  at  Alexandria  or  Cairo,  which 
the  dragoman  for  the  Nile  voyage  furnishes  by  contract. 

The  steamer  left  Nov.  29th,  at  the  appointed  time, 
with  about  forty  first  and  as  many  second-class  pas- 
sengers. We  found  her  very  comfortable,  with  a large 
saloon  on  deck,  more  capacious  than  any  of  the  Cunard 
steamers,  there  being  no  outside  passage  around  it, 
the  saloon  and  promenade  deck  taking  up  the  whole 


10 


LETTER  II. 


width  of  the  ship.  Below  there  were  state  rooms  for 
150  first  and  second-class  passengers.  She  was  about 
3000  tons,  and  four  hundred  horse  power,  and  had,  like 
others  of  the  line,  a greater  speed  than  the  English. 
The  style  of  cooking  and  service  on  board  was  French. 
The  Peninsular  and  Oriental  line,  however,  are-  fine 
first -class  steamers,  and  probably  equally  good  in  many 
respects.  They  stop  at  Malta,  the  French  at  Messina. 
The  Italian  line  between  Brindisi  on  the  Adriatic,  and 
Alexandria,  saving  nearly  half  the  sea  travel,  is  well 
spoken  of.  In  fact  all  these  lines  have  some  advan- 
tages and  disadvantages,  but  neither  are  to  be  con- 
demned as  unworthy  of  patronage. 

After  a somewhat  rough  passage  of  five  and  a half 
days,  during  which  we  touched  for  an  hour  at  Messina, 
we  arrived  at  Alexandria.  Here  we  were  boarded  by 
numerous  dragomen,  guides,  porters,  boatmen  and 
others — rendering  the  deck  a perfect  babel  of  tongues 
among  which  that  of  the  noisy  Arabic  prevailed.  We 
engaged  the  services  of  one  of  the  former,  named  Ah- 
med Bamadan,  to  take  us  ashore  and  get  our  effects 
through  the  custom-house  to  the  hotel.  We  found 
the  Hotel  Abbatt  to  be  the  best,  though  the  Penin- 
sular and  Oriental  is  well  recommended.  I cannot  say 
as  much  for  the  Hotel  d’Europe.  I shall  not  attempt 
to  describe  the  novelties  of  this  ancient  mart  of  com- 
merce, founded  by  Alexander  the  Great,  once  the 
greatest  commercial  city  in  the  world,  and  now  the 
most  thriving  of  Oriental  ones.  Pompey’s  Pillar  and 
Cleopatra’s  Needle  look  down  on  a harbor*  filled  with 
a hundred  steamers,  and  from  six  to  eight  hundred 
sail  of  vessels,  of  all  sizes  and  nationalities.  The 
streets  swarm  with  Egyptians,  Arabs,  Syrians,  Turks 


VOYAGE  AT  ALEXANDRIA — OUR  DRAGOMAN.  H 


and  Greeks,  in  their  native  costume,  with  a sprinkling 
of  Europeans,  among  which  the  Italian  prevail  in 
numbers.  Thousands  of  the  little  Egyptian  donkeys, 
— on  which  are  mounted,  men,  women  and  children, — 
strings  of  camels,  buffaloes  harnessed  to  wagons,  fine 
Arabian  horses, — rode  by  the  military  or  government 
officers — handsome  European  turn-outs,  all  sorts  of 
street  vendors,  jugglers,  monkey  shows,  snake-charmers, 
engage  the  wondering  eyes  of  new  comers,  while  they 
are  beset  by  dragomen,  guides,  donkey-boys,  porters, 
and  beggars  enough  to  drive  one  to  desperation, 
and  a rattan  has  to  be  freely  used  to  get  rid  of 
some  of  the  last  named  pests  of  Egypt.  We  were 
harassed  by  dragomen  at  our  hotel  from  morning  till 
night,  all  anxious  to  have  an  opportunity  to  show 
their  recommendations  and  obtain  a chance  for  a 
tender  of  price  for  a Dahabeeh,  or  pleasure-boat,  to 
the  Cataract  and  back,  either  at  a stated  sum  for  the 
trip  or  by  the  month,  they  furnishing  everything  even 
to  paying  beggars  and  all  “backsheesh”  during  the 
voyage. 

Ahmed  Ramadan,  a young  Egyptian  dragoman, 
served  us  satisfactory  a couple  of  days  as  guide,  and 
our  first  object  was  to  look  at  the  boats  and  get 
posted  up  before  going  to  Cairo,  where  there  are  a 
much  greater  number  and  better  class  to  choose  from, 
besides  the  voyage  generally  commences  from  that 
city.  Two  days  were  devoted  to  examination  of  boats 
and  the  merits  of  several  dragomen — Egyptian,  Greek, 
Maltese  and  Nubian.  We  were  more  favorably  inclined 
to  taking  an  Egyptian,  as  they  come  in  contact  with 
their  own  countrymen  and  get  along  better  with  them, 
especially  the  captain,  crew,  and  servants  of  the  Da- 


12 


LETTER  II. 


habeeh,  who  are  generally  Egyptians  or  Nubians.  Being 
favorably  impressed  with  Mohamed  El  Adli,  of  Alexan- 
dria, a dragoman  of  long  experience  on  the  Nile  and 
in  Syria,  with  excellent  recommendations,  and  of  busi- 
ness-like character,  we  assented  to  his  accompaning 
us  to  Cairo,  conditionally,  where  we  should  make  our 
final  selection  of  dragoman  and  boat.  We  had  pre- 
viously got  his  price  to  take  us  in  a first  class  boat, 
such  as  we  might  select  either  in  Alexandria  or  Cairo, 
to  the  First  Cataract  on  the  border  of  Nubia  and 
back  to  Cairo,  giving  us  twenty  days  of  stoppages 
for  sight-seeing  and  sporting.  While  at  Alexandria  we 
called  on  our  Consul-General,  Hon.  Chas.  Hale,  who 
returned  our  visit,  and  gave  us  some  valuable  infor- 
mation, and  kindly  loaned  us  quite  a collection  of 
books.  We  visited  the  excellent  establishment  of  Ebe- 
nezer  Thomas  to  select  English  provisions  and  stores. 

On  our  arrival  at  Cairo,  in  3l/2  hours  by  quick 
train , we  found  carriages  and  porters  ready  to 
convey  us  and  the  luggage  to  any  of  the  Hotels. 
The  heavy  parcels  have  to  be  taken  on  trucks, — and 
it  is  best  to  have  stores  come  by  merchandise  train. 
The  Hotel  des  Ambassadeurs  was  chosen  by  the  re- 
commendation of  a friend.  It  is  small,  but  neatly  kept, 
has  an  excellent  table  d’hote,  and  is  situated  on  the 
Usbekeeh.  A new  one  was  being  built,  which  is  greatly 
needed.  The  examination  of  boats  was  our  first  object, 
in  order  to  secure  the  best  one,  there  having  been 
only  three  or  four  engaged.  El  Adli  took  us  directly 
to  the  best,  which  we  had,  heard  of  in  Alexandria. 
Our  trip  being  only  to  the  First  Cataract,  and  party 
large,  we  only  examined  the  largest  of  the  Dahabeehs. 
The  greater  number  of  a size  required  to  pass  the 


SELECTION  OF  BOAT. 


13 


Second  Cataract,  accomodating  two  to  four  persons, 
were  omitted,  and  out  of  a dozen  of  the  largest  and 
best  fitted-up  boats,  we  had  no  difficulty  in  unani- 
mously choosing  the  “Gazelle”  as  the  best.  She  was 
built  of  iron,  of  great  breadth  of  beam,  with  a large 
saloon,  four  state-rooms,  and  a small  saloon  in  the 
stern,  the  whole  occupying  about  one-half  the  length 
of  the  boat.  She  was  very  neatly  painted  and  de- 
corated , perfectly  clean , very  nicely  furnished  with 
divans,  tables,  chairs,  large  French  mirrors,  pictures, 
rich  carpets,  muslin  curtains,  drapery,  and  an  excellent 
and  full  supply  of  dinner  and  kitchen  ware,  bed  and 
table  linen,  silver  ware,  hanging  and  centre  lamps, 
handsome  plated  candlesticks,  &c.  The  closets,  bath- 
room, water-filterer , pantry,  and  lastly,  the  kitchen 
on  the  bow  of  the  bpat,  were  all  in  excellent  order. 
The  quarter-deck  was  well  supplied  with  divans,  tables, 
chairs,  &c.  We  found  her  measurement  to  be  75  feet 
in  length  by  16  1-2  brPad,  the  saloon  14  by  13  1-2, 
state  rooms  7 by  6 and  6 1-2  by  5 feet,  after  saloon 
nearly  12  feet  square.  She  draws  about  33  inches 
water,  has  the  cabins  sunk  28  inches  below  deck,  the 
height  of  which  is  6 1-2  feet.  The  gunwale  is  10  inches 
above  deck  and  28  inches  out  water.  She  carries  on 
a mast  stepped  well  forward  a large  lateen  sail,  ex- 
tending on  a spar  seventy-five  feet  in  length,  which 
is  lashed  to  the  head  of  the  mast,  and  shifted  forward 
of  it.  A smaller  mast  is  stepped  entirely  aft  of  the 
helm  or  tiller,  on  which  a similar  sail,  less  than  half 
the  size  of  the  foresail  is  lashed  in  the  same  manner, 
and  the  sheet  run  through  a projecting  boom  in  the 
stern.  She  has  10  oars,  and  a crew  consisting  of  the 
captain,  10  men,  steersman,  cook  and  boy.  There  were 


14 


LETTER  II. 


other  boats,  larger  and  more  profuse  in  gilding,  satin, 
damask,  &c.,  but  none  so  pleasant  and  homelike  as 
the  “Gazelle.”  Time  has  proved  our  choice  to  have 
been  a wise  one,  and  our  boat  is  acknowledged  to  be 
the  best,  and  commands  a higher  price  than  any  other. 
Some  of  the  finest  are  the  “Victoria,”  “Falcon,”  “Cleo- 
patra,” “Nightingale,”  “Zarifa,”  “Alice,”  “Memphis,” 
“Marie  Louise”  and  “Antoinette.” 

On  the  3rd  day  after  our  arrival,  El  Adli,  whom 
we  had  decided  to  take  at  his  offer,  secured  the 
“Gazelle”  at  a deduction  from  the  asking  price,  £250 
for  the  trip,  and  the  contract  was  drawn  up  and 
signed  in  duplicate  before  the  American  Consul  as 
customary.  Preparations  were  made  to  supply  two 
months’  provisions  and  various  things  necessary  for  the 
voyage.  A list  of  all  the  usual  things  was  made  out; 
we  had  only  to  say  what  we  wanted  in  addition,  and 
our  dragoman  was  ready  to  furnish  them,  giving  us 
no  trouble  about  the  matter.  Most  of  his  supplies  he 
purchased  in  Cairo,  but  had  to  return  to  Alexandria, 
five  hours’  transit  by  railroad,  for  English  butter  and 
a few  other  articles. 

During  the  nine  days  after  the  contract  was  signed 
that  we  remained  at  our  “Hotel  des  Ambassadeurs,” 
we  were  partly  employed  in  sight-seeing  in  this  great 
and  truly  oriental  city,  and  the  rest  of  our  spare 
time  in  purchasing  articles  and  arranging  for  our  new 
home  on  the  Nile  for  two  months.  A thirty  foot  pennant 
being  considered  too  short  for  our  “Queen  of  the  fleet” 
by  our  ambitious  El  Adli,  we  had  another  made  for 
our  great  foresail  peak,  sixty  feet  in  length,  with  two 
triangles, — one  red,  the  other  white,  in  the  form  of  a 
star,  on  a blue  ground  in  the  Union,  also  a Union 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  THE  VOYAGE. 


15 


Jack  for  our  small  boat.  Sixty-four  tin  and  glass 
lanterns,  of  different  colors,  were  made  for  illumina- 
tions. Two  brass  ones,  with  colored  glass  globes,  to 
hoist  at  the  peaks,  together  with  halliards,  had  to  be 
purchased,  the  boat  not  having  such.  Suitable  clothing 
lor  riding  donkeys,  hats  with  patent  ventilators  and 
muslin  covers,  white  parasols  to  guard  against  the 
hot  Egyptian  sun,  and  various  little  articles  from  the 
bazaars,  were  almost  daily  found  wanting  and  pur- 
chased. Last,  but  not  least,  we  had  to  make  a visit 
to  our  bankers,  Tod,  Rathbon  & Co.,  for  funds  to  ad- 
vance money,  as  per  contract,  to  our  dragoman,  and 
for  small  silver  Egyptian  money  to  use  up  the  river, 
and  especially  copper  fractional  parts  of  the  piastre, 
absolutely  necessary,  there  being  none  to  be  obtained 
in  Upper-Egypt,  and  so  scarce  in  Cairo  as  to  command 
a premium  of  forty  per  cent. 

Within  two  weeks  from  our  engaging  the  “Gazelle” 
seven  Dahabeehs  were  taken  by  five  American,  one  French 
and  one  English  party.  The  whole  number  will  probably 
not  exceed  this  season  more  than  30,  a small  fleet  in 
comparison  to  the  number  on  the  Nile  six  years  ago, 
when  there  were  on  Christmas  Day  at  Thebes  87  boats 
of  different  nations,  and  as  many  more  on  the  river. 
The  American  war,  high  prices  in  Egypt,  and  parti- 
cularly the  cholera,  attended  with  the  vexatious  qua- 
rantine, has  greatly  reduced  travelling  here,  and  the 
Dahabeehs  have  been  used  for  freight  boats.  This 
renders  them  very  filthy,  and  great  care  should  be 
had  if  one  is  fitted  up  again  for  passengers  to  have 
them  sunk  and  thoroughly  renovated,  painted  and 
varnished.  There  are  now  no  more  than  about  eight 
regular  passenger  boats  in  Alexandria  and  thirty  in 


16 


LETTER  II. 


Cairo.  About  a dozen  are  now  being  built  of  iron 
and  wood  for  next  season,  when  if  no  cholera  visits 
Egypt,  a great  influx  of  travellers  is  expected.  But 
Americans  should  be  careful  not  to  pay  asking  prices, 
which  are  already  higher  than  the  cost  of  labor  and 
boats  warrant. 

While  waiting  for  our  boat  to  be  in  readiness  we 
visited  the  Shoobra  Gardens,  and  Marble  Palace  of 
Mehemet  Ali,  the  Citadel,  Palace  of  the  Pasha,  the 
new  alabaster  mosque,  the  mosque  of  Sultan  Hassan 
and  Tooloon,  Old  Cairo,  Island  of  Rhoda,  the  garden 
of  Ibrahim  Pasha,  the  Kilometer  for  measuring  the  rise 
and  fall  of  the  Nile,  the  Copt  (Christian)  and  Jews’ 
quarters,  Greek  Convent;  the  sepulchre  of  Mehemet 
Ali’s  family,  Tombs  of  the  Mamlooks,  and  the  Turkish 
and  Egyptian  Bazaars  in  addition  to  the  European. 

In  another  letter  I propose  to  give  a copy  of  our 
contract,  inventory  of  boat,  her  outfit  and  provisions, 
which  from  their  novelty  will  not  only  be  interesting, 
but  may  be  of  service. 


LETTER  III. 


CONTRACT  WITH  DRAGOMAN  — EXPLANATIONS INVEN- 

TORY OF  THE  “GAZELLE.” 


This  letter  will,  I fear,  be  a very  dry  and  un- 
interesting one;  but  to  some  it  may  prove  of  advan- 
tage to  know  the  form  and  substance  of  a contract  with 
a Dragoman  for  a Nile  voyage  on  a Dahabeeh.  Our 
contract,  verbatim , is  as  follows: 

This  Indenture  of  two  parts  between  C.  H.  L., 
W.  W.  W.,  and  H.  R,  of  Boston,  U.  S.  A.,  of  the 
first  part,  and  Mohamed  El  Adli,  of  Alexandria,  Egypt, 
Dragoman,  of  the  second  part,  witnesseth: 

That  in  consideration  of  the  sum  of  money  herein- 
after named,  to  be  paid  by  the  party  of  the  jirst  part  to 
the  party  of  the  second  part,  the  said  El  Adli  agrees 
to  furnish  the  party  of  the  first  part  the  iron  Dahabeeh, 
or  boat,  called  the  “Gazelle,”  and  a small  boat,  together 
with  a crew  of  ten  men  with  a captain,  steersman, 
cook,  and  boy;  also  to  furnish  an  extra  first-class 
cook  and  two  servants  for  the  cabin.  The  boat  to 
be  properly  furnished  with  everything  for  a first-class 
Dahabeeh  that  is  necessary  and  useful  for  the  comfort 
of  the  party,  consisting  of  the  above-named  gentlemen, 

2 


18 


LETTER  III. 


with  Mrs.  L.,  Mrs.  W.,  and  Miss  R.,  for  their  exclu- 
sive use  during  the  voyage. 

Mohamed  El  Adli  agrees  to  furnish  also  an  abun- 
dance of  all  stores,  provisions,  candles,  lights,  &c.,  of 
the  best  quality,  and  everything  except  wines  and 
liquors  that  is  necessary  for  the  comfort  of  first-class 
passengers,  and  also  what  is  necessary  for  the  others 
on  board  during  the  entire  voyage.  Also  to  provide 
three  meals  a day  of  as  many  courses  as  shall  be 
required  during  the  voyage.  Also  to  have  the  clothes 
of  the  party  and  all  the  cabin  linen  washed,  &c.,  as 
often  as  is  necessary  during  the  voyage. 

Mohamed  El  Adli,  under  the  foregoing  conditions, 
agrees  to  take  the  aforesaid  party  of  six  persons  ex- 
clusively to  Asouan  and  back  to  Cairo,  giving  them 
twenty  days’  stoppages  on  the  voyage  at  any  place 
they  may  wish  to  stop,  at  such  times  as  they  may 
choose,  providing  for  them  good  donkeys,  guides, 
guards,  and  saddles,  while  stopping  and  while  re- 
maining at  any  place  during  the  voyage,  and  paying 
all  the  “backsheesh”  and  presents  that  may  be  ex- 
pected from  them  except  those  to  the  captain  and 
crew.  (This  was  provided  for  by  a subsequent  agree- 
ment by  which  we  agreed  to  give  our  Dragoman  £20 
additional,  he  paying  them  all  such.)  The  time  of  such 
stoppages  less  than  a day  is  to  be  computed  and 
reckoned  as  parts  of  a day  only,  which  is  to  consist 
of  twelve  hours  daylight  for  each  and  every  day  ,of 
the  twenty  aforesaid.  The  times  necessary  for  the 
boat  to  stop,  on  account  of  darkness  or  any  other 
cause,  shall  not  be  reckoned  as  parts  of  the  above- 
named  twenty  days. 

Mohamed  El  Adli  further  agrees  that  the  boat  shall 


CONTRACT  WITH  DRAGOMAN. 


19 


have  sufficient  ballast  to  ensure  her  safety,  that  the 
c^rew  shall  not  leave  the  boat  without  the  consent  of 
the  first  party  to  this  agreement,  that  said  party  shall 
have  perfect  control  over  the  movements  of  the  boat 
and  crew,  that  when  sailing  the  sheet  or  rope  at- 
tached to  each  sail  shall  be  held  or  attended  to  at 
all  times  by  one  of  the  crew,  that  the  decks  shall  be 
thoroughly  washed  and  cleaned  before  eight  o’clock 
each  morning,  and  that  the  first  party  shall  in  no 
wise  be  held  responsible  for  any  damage  to  the  boat 
or  anything  belonging  to  her  during  the  voyage.  The 
“Gazelle”  to  be  equipped  and  trip  commenced  from 
Cairo  within  twelve  days  from  the  date  of  this  con- 
tract. 

In  consideration  of  the  faithful  fulfillment  of  all  the 
foregoing  stipulations  and  agreements  on  the  part  of 
the  said  Mohamed  El  Adli,  the  said  L.  W.  and  R. 
will  pay  to  the  said  El  Adli  the  sum  of  four  hundred 
pounds  (£400)  in  gold  in  the  following  manner: — two 
hundred  and  sixty  pounds  in  advance,  and  one  hundred 
and  forty  pounds  on  return  to  Cairo,  which  sum  shall 
be  in  full  payment  for  the  “Gazelle,”  her  crew,  captain, 
cooks,  servants,  provisions,  guides,  guards,  donkeys, 
saddles,  backsheesh,  and  every  and  all  expenses  of 
every  kind  which  the  said  Dragoman  El  Adli  has 
agreed  to  undertake  in  this  contract  and  including  his 
own  services.  (We  subsequently  gave  a gratuity  of 
£30  additional  for  our  Dragoman’s  too  lavish  outlay 
for  us.) 

Should  the  party  aforesaid  wish  to  extend  the  time 
beyond  the  twenty  days,  they  shall  have  the  privilege 
of  doing  so,  by  paying  for  all  expenses  of  boat,  crew, 
living,  &c.,  as  before  named,  the  sum  of  seven  pounds, 

2* 


20 


LETTER  III. 


ten  shillings  for  each  and  every  day,  the  time  to  be 
computed  as  before  mentioned. 

In  case  of  any  disagreement  between  the  parties  to 
this  contract,  the  whole  matter  shall  be  referred  to 
the  arbitrament  of  the  American  Consul  General  at 
Alexandria,  and  his  decision  shall  be  final.  Witness 
our  hands  this  11th  day  of  December,  1866,  at  Cairo. 


(Signed) 


Seal  of  the  | 
consulate 
[of  U.  S.  A.  | 


W.  W.  W.,  for  self  and  party, 
Mohammed  el  Adli.  Seal. 

Seen  at  the  Consulate  of  the  U. 
S.  A.,  at  Cairo,  Egypt.,  for  the 
legalization  of  the  signature  of 
W.  W.  W.  and  the  seal  of  Maho- 
med El  Adli,  Cairo,  Dec.  11th, 
1866. 


For  the  Consul,  Felix  Walmass. 

The  contracts  should  be  always  made  and  signed 
in  duplicate  and  the  signatures  attested  at  the  con- 
sulate. 

The  foregoing  is  perhaps  needlessly  lengthy,  and 
might  be  abridged  to  serve  every  legal  purpose.  Should 
the  traveller  wish  to  go  to  the  second  Cataract,  a clause 
should  be  added  giving  him  the  privilege  of  so  doing 
at  a given  sum  or  rate  with  number  of  days’  stop- 
pages. It  generally  takes  a month  longer,  with  10  days 
to  stop,  and  costs  about  the  proportion  of  the  first 
voyage.  The  expense  of  taking  the  boat  up  the  Ca- 
taract is  included.  This,  with  the  risk,  is  usually 
borne  by  the  owner  of  the  boat,  who  lets  it  to  the 
Dragoman  with  that  stipulation.  It  is  generally  bet- 
ter to  engage  by  the  trip  instead  of  by  the  day  or 
month.  In  the  former  case  all  the  men  are  hired 
by  the  trip  and  do  not  cause  those  vexatious  delays 


CONTRACT  WITH  DRAGOMAN. 


21 


which  a per  diem  contract  tempts  many  a crew  and 
dragoman  to  make,  especially  if  a profitable  one. 

We  subsequently  made  an  agreement  with  El  Adli 
to  pay  him  additionally  (£20)  twenty  pounds  for  all 
the  backsheesh  to  the  captain,  crew,  cooks,  waiters,  in 
going  up,  returning,  and  after  arrival  back  at  Cairo, 
as  we  did  not  wish  to  have  the  trouble  of  paying 
them  as  customary  about  twenty  times  if  they  do 
well,  and  it  is  said  they  are  pretty  sure  not  to  do 
so  unless  they  are  liberally  paid  this  backsheesh,  or 
presents,  on  arriving  at  one  of  the  principal  large 
towns.  As  we  knew  El  Adli  was  liberal  to  a fault, 
we  felt  assured  he  would  pay  it  all  faithfully.  We 
shall  see,  however,  and  be  able  to  give  the  result. 
No  doubt  much  trouble  is  experienced  by  being*  too 
parsimonious  with  a class  of  men  who  must  be  either 
driven  with  the  whip,  or  won  over  to  work  well  by 
that  old  established  custom  of  backsheesh  which  the 
orientals  of  all  classes  are  so  clamorous  for. 

The  “Gazelle”  being  superior  to  any  other,  and  of 
iron,  a higher  and  it  seems  an  exorbitant  price  was 
paid  for  her  by  El  Adli,  viz.,  £220  for  the  voyage, 
and  20  days’  stoppages,  including  of  course,  her  compli- 
ment of  captain,  crew,  &c.  This  price  from  the  owner, 
contrary  to  the  general  usage , did  not  include  the 
backsheesh  to  the  crew  and  captain  on  their  return. 
Prices  of  boats  have  greatly  increased  the  last  few 
years,  and  it  is  hoped  that  travellers  will  not  too 
readily  submit  to  unreasonable  demands.  Our  boat 
had  an  excellent  and  full  assortment  of  china,  glass, 
and  kitchen  ware,  electro-plate,  bedding,  curtains,  bed 
and  table  linen — in  fact,  all  the  comfort  and  conve- 
niences enjoyed  at  home  for  eating.  The  following  is  a 


22 


LETTER  III. 


copy  of  her  Inventory  placed  in  our  hands  by  her 
owner. 

INVENTORY  OE  THE  “GAZELLE.” 

16  pairs  muslin  curtains — saloon  door  curtain — 4 pic- 
tures, village  scenes,  in  frames — 2 large  French  mirrors, 
plates  32  -f-48  inches — 2 divans  with  6 pillows — 2 tab- 
ore  ts  with  covers — 1 large  mahogany  centre  table — 
6 dining  chairs — 1 small  round  table — 3 state  room 
chairs — 6 small  mirrors — after  saloon  divans — saloon 
book  shelves — French  lamp  (regulateur) — 1 hanging 
lamp — 3 large  Wilton  and  Brussels  carpets — 1 velvet 
table  cover — 6 rugs — 2 deck  divans — 1 folding  chair 
— 4 common  deck  chairs. 

ELECTRO-PLATE.  1 tea-pot — 1 coffee-pot — 1 sugar 
dish — 1 milk  pitcher — 2 candle-sticks  with  glass  shades 
— 5 bed-room  candle-sticks — 1 dozen  each  of  table, 
dessert  and  tea-spoons — 1 dozen  each  large  and  small 
table  forks — 2 gravy  spoons — 1 soup  ladle,  sugar 
tongs,  mustard  and  salt  spoons  — 6 egg  spoons — 1 set 
castors  with  6 bottles — 2 salt  dishes. 

LINEN,  &c.  24  sheets — 30  pillow-cases — 12  blan- 
kets— 6 counterpanes — 30  towels — 24  table  napkins — 
6 table  cloths  — 12  kitchen  towels  6 grass -cloth 
towels — 6 musquito  curtains,  mattrasses  and  pillows — 
5 china  toilet  services  of  25  pieces. 

TABLE  WARE.  1 dinner  service  and  1 breakfast 
service,  consisting  of  107  pieces — 4 decanters — 12  tum- 
blers— 16  wine  and  12  champagne  glases — 12  din- 
ner knives  — 12  dessert  knives — 2 carvers  and  forks — 
1 steel — 2 nut-crackers — 1 corkscrew — 1 butter  dish — 
1 sherbet  mug  and  stand — 1 jam  stand — 2 glass  salts. 

KITCHEN  WARE.  1 bread  board  and  knife — 7 cook- 
ing pans — 1 brass  pestle  and  mortar — 1 marble  mor- 


INVENTORY  OF  THE  ..GAZELLE. 


23 


tar — 1 meat  chopper — 1 copper  can — 1 tea  kettle — 
2 frying  pans — 3 oven  pans — egg  beater — skimming 
ladle— 2 pudding  moulds — 3 rolling-pins — 6 bread 
moulds — iron  basin,  gridiron,  milk  can,  coffee  pots, 
water  tins,  dust-pan,  large  copper  basin,  foot-tub,  large 
knife,  tea  tray,  brass  tray — 3 small  trays — 3 lan- 
terns— 3 flat  irons — 1 filterer. 

The  list  of  articles  of  food  to  furnish  our  table, 
which  will  be  found  in  the  appendix,  embraces  nearly 
all  usually  furnished  except  those  obtained  by  our 
Dragoman  on  our  voyage  on  the  river,  such  as  milk, 
fruit,  vegetables,  &c.  Fresh  mutton,  poultry,  eggs — 
but  not  beef — are  added  also  as  wanted. 

It  is  hoped  my  future  letters  will  be  more  inter- 
esting, embracing  as  they  will,  the  daily  experience 
of  this  extraordinary  voyage  on  this  highway  of. the 
beautiful  valley  once  peopled  by  the  hosts  of  Pharaoh 
and  the  children  of  Isral.  The  land  loved  and  won 
by  Alexander  the  Great,  the  home  of  Cleopatra,  whose 
“hearth  stones”  laid  years  before  the  advent  of  our 
Saviour,  are  yet  to  be  seen,  surrounded  by  gigantic 
walls  and  columns  that  have  defied  the  ravages  of 
time  and  the  hand  of  ruthless  man. 


LETTER  IV. 


EMBARKING  EOR  THE  VOYAGE — OUR  FIRST  DAY  ON  BOARD 
THE  „GAZELLE” — AN  EVENING  SCENE  AT  ANCHOR  AT 

BOULAK — NO  WIND VISIT  TO  CAIRO VISITORS  ON 

BOARD  — CHRISTMAS  EVE. 


My  last  letter  was  mainly  devoted  to  giving  an 
exact  copy  of  our  Nile  voyage  contract,  the  concluding 
of  which  was  an  agreeable  event.  It  was  still  more 
pleasant  to  the  “R.  W.  L.”  party  when  the  20th  of 
December  came  with  its  bright  sky,  and  the  ther- 
mometer at  from  65  to  70  indoors,  without  fires,  there 
being  no  place  in  the  room  at  our  Hotel  for  one, 
even  if  needed.  This  was  the  day  our  indefatigable 
Dragoman  had  engaged  to  be  in  readiness  to  commence 
our  voyage.  El  Adli  came  the  evening  before  to  an- 
nounce that  all  was  prepared  for  the  morning,  and  it 
found  us  ready,  with  our  luggage  divided,  it  being 
necessary  to  economize  room,  and  leave  every  super- 
fluous thing  behind  in  charge  of  our  bankers  in  Cairo. 
Among  those  to  whom  we  bid  adieu  on  leaving  the 
“Hotel  des  Ambassadeurs”  for  our  Dahabeeh,  were 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hiram  Hitchcock  of  5th  Avenue  Hotel, 


FIRST  DAY  ON  BOARD. 


25 


N.  Y.,  who  were  about  making  arrangements  for  a 
party  to  the  Second  Cataract  on  a three  months’ 
voyage.  While  his  multitude  of  friends  in  every  part 
of  the  United  States  will  miss  his  genial  face,  and 
an  accomplished  and  popular  landlord,  they  will  be 
glad  to  learn  that  the  object  mainly  of  his  visit  here, 
the  restoration  of  his  health,  is  in  a fair  way  of  being 
gained  by  a winter  on  the  Nile.  He  has  improved 
already  much,  and  as  he  carries  a good  rifle,  his  table 
will  not  want  for  that  important  course  to  epicures, 
game,  so  abundant  on  this  river.  Before  going  omboard 
we  made  a last  and  important  call  at  our  bankers  to 
get  a supply  of  small  silver  change  in  Egyptian  money 
to  use  in  Upper  Egypt  where  it  is  scarce.  We  had 
laid  in  a good  supply  of  copper  piastres  at  about 
forty  per  cent,  premium,  to  use  there,  as  none  can  be 
bought,  and  amSng  the  common  people  it  is  not  only 
advantageous  but  absolutely  indispensable. 

On  arriving  at  our  future  home  lying  at  the  shore  of 
Boulak,  we  were  received  on  board  the  Gazelle  by  our 
Dragoman,  the  Reis  (captain),  crew,  and  servants,  with 
some  formality,  but  welcomed  in  a very  respectful  and 
pleasant  manner.  All  were  neatly  dressed  in  their 
native  Egyptian  costume, — El  Adli  in  his  fine  cloth 
suit  of  bright  brown,  consisting  of  full  trousers,  vest 
and  jacket,  a rich,  gay  silk  Damascus  scarf  around  his 
waist,  and  one  still  more  so  wound  around  his  fez  or 
tabouche.  The  waiters,  Mahomed  and  Abouzed,  already 
had  the  table  set  for  the  four- o’clock  dinner.  Every 
thing  appeared  truly  oriental  except  our  saloOn  and 
table.  They  looked  so  cheerful  and  Parisian  that  we 
felt  at  home  at  once.  We  sat  down  to  the  best  din- 
ner we  had  eaten  since  leaving  Paris.  The  quality 


26 


LETTER  IV. 


and  style  of  the  cooking,  the  neatness  and  taste  dis- 
played, relieved  us  of  any  anxiety  regarding  the  merits 
of  our  cook  and  waiters.  I may  for  once  be  pardoned 
for  giving  our  bill  of  fare,  which  was  only  an  ordi- 
nary one.  Pea  soup,  boiled  fish  garnished  with  parsley, 
roast  mutton,  pigeon  pie,  roast  turkey,  mashed  pota- 
toes, cauliflower  salad,  apple  tart,  stewed  apricots, 
oranges,  bananas,  pears  from  France,  nuts,  dried 
fruits,  and  coffee.  Our  cook — Achmet  Shaheen — is  se- 
cond to  none  on  the  Nile,  has  cooked  for  some  of  the 
English  nobility,  and  is  very  neat,  prompt,  and  good- 
natured,  strictly  temperate  in  abstaining  alike  with  all 
the  crew,  captain,  servants  and  Dragoman,  from  intoxi- 
cating drinks.  Native  cooks  and  servants  for  a Nile 
voyage  are  well  educated  in  their  vocation,  very  atten- 
tive, and  excel  those  of  same  class  we  have  in  America. 
They  speak  generally  a few  words  of  either  English, 
French  or  Italian. 

After  dinner  and  tea  we  arranged  our  state-rooms 
which  we  had  mutually  assigned  to  each  as  equitably 
as  possible,  and  as  there  was  no  wind,  we  slept  quietly 
by  the  shore  of  Boulak,  amidst  a crowd  of  Dahabeehs, 
packed  in  on  each  side  of  us.  The  sun  rose  bright 
and  clear,  but  our  starry  flag  and  gay  pennons  hung 
lazily  at  the  masts.  Our  first  breakfast  we  enjoyed 
much.  It  consisted  of  nice  Mocha  coffee , the  best 
bread  and  butter  we  had  eaten  for  a long  time,  honey, 
three  courses  of  meat,  fruit,  &c.  Soon  after  we  had 
a call  from  some  American  friends,  and  then  took  car- 
riages to  the  city  to  make  some  purchases  at  the  ba- 
zaars. On  our  return  to  Boulak,  the  “Gazelle”  was 
moored  in  the  stream,  ready  to  take  advantage  of  the 
first  fair  wind.  It  requires  a good  breeze  abeam  or 


NO  WIND. 


27 


aft,  to  stem  tlie  three -mile -an -hour  current  where 
there  is  no  tow-path,  nor  channel  to  push  the  boat. 
The  Dragomen  do  not  employ  tow-boats,  but  keep  the 
passengers  until,  to  use  El  Adli’s  expression,  “the  good 
God  send  us  a fair  wind.”  This  seems  strange,  as  a 
half  dozen  miles  up  the  river  is  a tow-path,  which, 
when  reached,  the  men  can  “track,”  as  they  call  it 
here.  When  no  wind,  they  can  make  nearly  two  miles 
an  hour.  Out  of  a crew  of  ten  men,  eight  are  harnessed 
to  the  track  rope,  the  rest  being  retained  on  board. 

The  second  evening  of  our  life  upon  the  Nile  was 
lovely  beyond  description.  Our  ten  men  neatly  dressed 
in  a dark  loose  robe  and  white  trousers,  with  red  and 
white  turbans , were  seated  in  a circle  playing  on 
drums  and  tamborine  an  accompaniment  to  their  pe- 
culiar plaintive  Arab  songs.  Our  Dragoman,  the  reis, 
steersmann,  cooks,  and  boy,  were  grouped  around  them 
on  the  deck,  the  lanterns  under  the  awning  lighting 
up  the  dusky  countenances  of  the  crew  that  we  were 
studying  to  remember.  On  the  cabin  or  upper  deck 
no  lights  disturbed  the  beauty  of  a full  moonlight 
scene,  save  those  twinkling  faintly  in  the  distant 

Another  morning  found  us  still  at  our  moorings, 
with  a light  head  wind,  so  after  breakfast  we  took  a 
stroll  ashore,  meeting  some  American  friends  canvassing 
the  merits . of  different  boats.  Again  to  the  bazaars, 
finding  each  day  some  little  wants  to  provide  for. 
Drawing-books,  blank  books,  stationery,  tea  and  ginger 
cakes,  were  added  to  our  stock,  fearing  to  come  short 
if  many  tea  parties  are  given  up  the  river.  The 
evening  was  passed  in  our  home  circle  with  games  of 
backgammon  and  whist.  The  morrow  was  looked  for 


LETTER  IV. 


with  some  interest,  as  we  expected  the  pleasure  of  a 
visit  from  our  Consul  General,,  Hon.  Charles  Hale,  who 
was  on  a visit  here  from  Alexandria  with  the  captain 
and  officers  of  the  U.  S.  S.  Swatara.  This  frigate  had 
been  telegraphed  for  by  Mr.  Hale  to  take  charge  of 
his  prisoner,  young  Surratt,  who  had  been  arrested  by 
him  there. 

The  following  day,  being  still  at  anchor,  with  the 
wind  light  from  the  S.  S.  W.,  I took  a donkey  and 
rode  to  Cairo.  Boulak  is  a large  commercial  city,  an 
appendage  to,  and  the  port  of  Cairo,  with  5000  in- 
habitants. It  is  under  the  same  governor  or  pasha, 
and  has  large  founderies,  machine  shops,  locomotive 
works,  sugar  mills  and  other  government  buildings, 
including  the  new  and  unrivalled  Egyptian  Museum 
of  Antiquities.  The  distance  is  about  two  miles  from 
new,  and  about  four  from  old  Cairo.  But  to  continue. 
My  ride  was  the  same  interesting  one  I had  taken 
before  several  times.  I had  to  thread  my  way,  as- 
sisted by  the  donkey  attendant,  through  throngs  of 
the  Oriental  human  species,  strings  of  camels  carrying 
lumber,  building  stone,  and  every  kind  of  merchandise, 
and  men,  women  and  children  mounted  on  the  little 
and  exceedingly  strong  and  docile  Egyptian  donkey. 
The  streets  on  the  way  are  lined  with  venders  of  all 
kinds  of  fruits,  vegetables,  merchandise,  &c. , con- 
spicuous among  which  are  those  selling  fresh  luscious 
sugar-cane  in  lengths  of  six  to  eight  feet.  I alighted 
at  our  hotel  to  find  the  Consul  General  and  the  offi- 
cers at  the  twelve-o’clock  breakfast.  As  they  were 
to  visit  the  Museum  before  calling  on  us,  by  the  re- 
commendation of  Mr.  Hale  I concluded  to  follow  their 
example,  and  would  urge  all  travellers  not  do  omit 


VISITORS  ON  BOARD. 


29 


doing  so.  It  is  a fine  building,  situated  on  the  river 
bank,  with  a garden,  court  of  statuary,  and  large 
pieces  of  antiquity.  The  interior  has  marble  floors 
and  highly  decorated  ceilings.  Handsome  inlaid  ca- 
binets and  glass  cases  are  placed  in  excellent  order 
around  the  different  apartments,  their  contents  all 
classified  and  numbered  to  correspond  with  a large 
catalogue  published  in  French  in  1864,  and  containing 
917  described  articles  of  antiquity,  the  greater  part 
from  3000  to  4000  years  old,  embracing  jewelry, 
household  gods,  vases,  statuettes,  implements  of  every 
kind  of  use,  even  to  a comb  with  the  original  dirt 
and  grease  of  the  hair  adhering  to  it.  Dice  as  old 
as  Moses,  showing  the  truth  of  Salomon,  that  “there 
is  nothing  new  under  the  sun,”  which  applies  to 
Egypt,  where  the  same  kinds  of  tools  and  implements, 
the  same  customs,  prevail  now  as  in  Pharaoh’s  time. 
There  are  as,  many  more  articles  not  in  catalogue. 
The  exhibition  is  free  to  all  foreigners,  without  ticket 
or  remuneration,  from  8 to  5 in  summer  and  9 to 
4 in  winter,  except  Friday,  the  Mohammedan  sab- 
bath. The  museum  is  the  sole  property  of  the  Vice- 
roy, at  whose  expense  it  was  created  at  an  enor- 
mous sum. 

After  their  visit,  the  Consul  General,  with  Com- 
mander Jeffers  and  eight  of  the  officers  of  the  Swatara, 
came  to  our  landing,  and  were  taken  on  board  by 
small  boat,  under  our  new  Union-jack  in  the  “stern 
sheets.”  Our  flag  was  lowered  in  salute  as  they  came 
alongside,  and  received  by  our  entire  party.  After  a 
spirited  conversation,  in  which  the  ladies  had  a full 
share,  we  showed  them  over  our  rooms,  it  being  the 
first  Nile  boat  the  officers  had  seen.  They  expressed 


30 


LETTER  IV. 


much  surprise  at  the  comfort  and  luxury  visible;  and, 
after  a lunch, — including  New  York  oysters,  and  cham- 
pagne of  Moet  and  Chandon’s  vintage, — they  left,  to 
take  a drive  to  the  Shoobra  gardens. 

The  next  day,  there  being  no  breeze,  was  devoted 
to  another  visit  to  the  Museum.  Just  before  night  a 
slight  indication  of  a fair  wind  caused  a sudden  stir 
on  deck  and  striking  of  awnings,  but  it  died  away 
into  a calm  and  beautiful  eve.  An  English  boat,  the 
“Zarifa,”  had  hauled  out  astern  of  us  and  anchored, 
ready  to  start.  No  Christmas  Eve  revel  disturbed  the 
quiet  of  our  night. 

Some  lines  composed  by  one  of  the  ladies  of  our 
party,  read  to  us  in  the  evening,  and  transcribed  to 
my  journal,  I take  the  liberty  of  appending  to  this 
closing  part  of  my  letter: 

ANTICIPATORY. 

Awake ! my  muse , awake ! and  tell 
The  wondrous  fortunes  that  befell 
The  party  gay  “R.  VV.  L.” 

When  leaving  Cairo’s  city  fair, 

The  storied  city  rich  and  rare, 

And  marvellous  beyond  compare. 

Borne  by  the  light  and  swift  Gazelle, 

They  boldly  stemmed  the  rushing  tide 
Of  ancient  Nile’s  majestic  river. 

As  up  the  mighty  stream  they  glide 
The  myriad  sunbeams  dance  and  quiver, 
Reflected  in  the  ripples  bright 
That  mark  their  vessel’s  path  with  light. 

High  beat  their  hearts  with  hope  elate; 

No  fear  have  they  of  adverse  fate, 

For  joyful  they  recall  the  day, 

When,  by  the  sunset’s  crimson  ray, 


CHRISTMAS  EVE. 


31 


They  first  beheld  in  all  its  glory 
This  stream  so  famed  in  classic  story. 

’Twas  when  they  stepped  from  off  the  beach 
Into  the  tiny  skiff,  which  bore  them 
O’er  waters  shoal  their  bark  to  reach, 

The  very  heavens  seemed  op’ning  o’er  them. 
Dian’s  pale  crescent  shone  on  high 
The  bow  of  promise  spanned  the  sky. 

Oh!  deem  them  not  presumptuous  grown, 

That,  as  they  gazed,  these  words  were  spoken, 
Breathed  forth  in  low  and  reverent  tone: 

“This  is  of  love  divine  the  token! 

This  is  the  very  smile  of  Heaven! 

Commence  we  then  our  pilgrimage, 

Believing  in  the  kind  presage; 

Remembering  this  auspicious  even.” 

One  thing  alone  their  souls  sore  vexed: 

A riddle  had  their  brains  perplexed. 

In  Alexanders’ s ancient  city 
Renowned  for  all  that’s  wise  and  witty, 

That  quaint  device  which  there  abounded 
Might  not  its  hidden  lore  be  sounded? 

’Twere  sad  to  tell  of  all  their  wrangles 
About  the  two  combined  triangles. 

“’Tis  Euclid’s  emblem,”  quoth  the  scholar. 
“No!”  said  his  friend,  with  well  feigned  choler, 
“’Tis  of  Freemasonry  the  sign! 

I’ll  pledge  you  to’t  in  sparkling  wine.” 

The  strife  wax’d  high.  At  length  “Eureka!” 
Burst  from  the  lips  of  a third  seeker. 

“Behold!  0 friends!  behold  with  pride! 

Of  us  these  ancients  prophesied. 

As  these  six  angles  interlace, 

Each  perfect  in  its  form  and  place, 

Combining  thus  to  form  a star, 

So  we  six  happy  mortals  are, 

Uniting  in  harmonious  whole. 

Fill  high,  fill  high  the  flowing  bowl! 

And  now  let’s  choose  as  our  device, 

Ceasing  henceforth  from  all  vain  jangles, 


32 


LETTER  IV. 


These  signs  which  grandly  took  their  rise 
In  times  of  Eld;  these  two  triangles.” 
Thus  gaily  chatted  they  awhile, 

Then  slept  and  dreamt  upon  the  Nile. 


LETTER  Y. 


CHRISTMAS — HEAD  WIND VISITORS  TO  DINE — A DECK 

SCENE EXCURSION  TO  HELIOPOLIS FAIR  WIND 

THE  “GAZELLE”  LEAVES  BOULAK AN  EVENING  AD- 
VENTURE  THE  START  ON  THE  VOYAGE SCENES  ON 

THE  RIVER — GAME — STUCK  FAST  ON  A SANDBAR A 

RACE  WITH  THE  “zARIFA” A WALK  ON  SHORE 

HEAD  WIND ARRIVAL  AT  BENISOEF. 


My  fifth  letter  leaves  us  still  at  our  moorings  at 
Boulak,  waiting  for  a fair  wind,  and  I continue  my 
narrative  of  life  on  this  river,  and  excursions  ashore, 
commencing  with  Christmas  morning.  Our  flag  and 
pennants  floated  to  a slight  breeze  which  came  down 
the  river.  Everything  betokened  around  us  a perfect 
ignorance  of  the  day,  except  that  a salute  was  fired 
on  our  deck  from  our  double-barrel  fowling  pieces, 
revolvers  and  rifles.  Among  the  numerous  craft  around 
us  only  two  flags  were  visible,  those  of  the  “Night- 
ingale,” taken  by  Mr.  Hitchcock,  mentioned  in  a pre- 
ceding letter,  and  the  “Zarifa”,  under  English  colors. 

All  of  our  party  again  visited  Cairo,  while  I,  mounted 
on  “ Mahomet  Jack”  attended  by  a sprightly  and 
entertaining  donkey  boy  named  Amine,  rode  to  the 
Hotel  des  Ambassadeurs  to  invite  our  friends  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Hitchcock  on  board  to  dine,  there  being  no  pro- 
spect of  a fair  wind.  They  came,  and  at  S1/^  we 

3 


34 


LETTER  V. 


sat  clown  to  a “Merry  Christmas”  dinner,  got  up  in 
Achmet  Shaheen’s  best  style.  Among  the  good  things 
were,  roast  turkey,  plum-pudding,  an  elaborate  cake 
with  sweetmeats,  almonds,  &c.,  that  would  not  have 
done  discredit  to  a professional  confectioner. 

After  the  toasts,  songs,  conundrums,  and  stories 
were  over,  our  dragoman  El-Adli  invited  us  on  deck 
tQ  see  the  illuminations  from  our  60  variegated  colored 
lanterns,  tastefully  displayed.  The  Arab  crew,  who  had 
enlivened  the  scene  with  songs,  accompanied  by  their 
drums  and  tamborines,  were  ranged  on  the  upper 
deck  to  receive  us,  and  at  the  word  of  command  from 
El-Adli,  they  gave  us  three  rousing  cheers  in  good 
English  style,  which  we  returned,  and  then  they  re- 
tired to  their  quarters  on  the  forward  deck.  After  an 
hour  of  games  of  “squads,”  our  friends  left  to  meet 
us  again  somewhere  up  the  Nile. 

The  next  day  was  clear  as  usual,  with  a slight 
head  wind,  light  as  a zephyr.  Determined  not  to  lose 
time,  but  to  visit  Heliopolis,  we  left  in  carriages  at 
11  A.  m.,  passing  through  Boulak  to  the  east,  thence 
across  a sandy  plain,  relieved  only  by  immense  gov- 
ernment buildings,  among  them  a very  large  one  sur- 
rounded by  high  walls  and  flanked  with  towers  and 
extensive  barracks  for  the  city  garrison,  which  amounts 
to  about  10,000  men.  There  were,  further  on,  steam 
works  for  raising  water  from  the  Nile  for  irrigation 
and  other  purposes,  and  buildings  connected  with  the 
railroad  to  Suez. 

The  scene  again  changed  and  we  entered  upon  a 
fertile  plain  on  an  excellent  road,  lined  with  flourish- 
ing Acacia  trees,  an  avenue  leading  to  an  handsome 
modern-built  mansion.  Here  was  seen  on  either  side 


EXCURSION  TO  HELIOPOLIS — FAIR  WIND. 


35 


pretty  gardens,  fields  of  corn,  wheat,  cotton,  sugar- 
cane and  clover,  orchards  of  lime  and  orange  trees  in 
full  bearing,  the  prickly  pear  (an  enormous  tree  of 
the  cactus  species  raised  for  producing  cochineal  for 
exportation),  grape  vines  apd  pomegranate  trees. 
Everything  looked  fresh  and  intensely  green,  owing 
to  the  artificial  watering  from  the  Nile  necessarily 
practiced  all  through  the  great  valley  of  Egypt,  where 
rain  is  scarcely  ever  seen. 

Passing  the  mud-built  village  of  Matarieh  by  devious 
turns  through  fields,  after  alighting  from  our  carriages 
we  arrived  at  the  obelisk  of  red  granite,  covered  with 
hieroglyphics  from  top  to  base.  It  is  68  feet  high, 
6 of  which  are  below  the  present  surface  of  the  ground, 
now  a hollow,  but  once  an  elevated  mound,  and  the 
only  remaining  relic  of  Heliopolis. 

This  city  was  the  oldest  in  Egypt  and  the  “On” 
mentioned  in  the  Bible.  It  was  the  school  of  Herod- 
otus, Plato  and  Dionysius.  We  visited  the  great 
perennial  sycamore  tree  under  whose  shadow  the  Holy 
Family  is  said  to  have  rested;  also  the  well  by  which 
sat  Mary  when  she  fled  hither  with  the  infant  Jesus. 
Whether  true  or  not,  the  tree,  or  rather  the  roots, 
are  of  an  incredible  age,  undoubtedly  from  the  fact  that 
century  after  century  it  appears  to  be  renewed  by 
new  shoots,  succeeding  the  decaying  trunk.  The  present 
one  is  an  irregular  bunch  of  trunks  grown  together, 
making  a circumference  of  over  30  feet  with  a com- 
parative scanty  foliage  on  its  huge  limbs. 

On  returning  towards  Cairo  we  observed  a slight 
change  of  wind,  but  the  ladies  wishing  a few  more 
articles  determined  us  to  drive  to  Cairo  and  visit  the 
bazaars  once  more.  Having  'completed  our  purchases, 


36 


LETTER  V. 


we  drove  to  Boulak,  and  on  arriving  at  our  landing 
place,  the  “Gazelle”  was  gone.  It  was  getting  late,  and 
we  had  a drive  of  five  miles  before  us.  The  coachmen 
said  the  horses  were  too  tired  to  go  on.  We  were 
miles  away  from  any  other  carriages,  but  we  overcame 
their  scruples  with  half  the  sum  they  charged,  and 
rattled  along  towards  old  Cairo  at  a more  rapid  pace 
than  ever. 

Arriving  at  the  point  agreed  upon  in  the  morning, 
no  boat  or  “Gazelle”  was  to  be  seen.  The  sun  had 
sunk  behind  the  shores  of  Ghizeh  and  the  Pyramids, 
and  darkness  came  on  rapidly  with  no  twilight  inter- 
vening, and  the  moon  not  risen.  We  were  in  a quan- 
dary. Should  we  go  in  search  of  our  boat  on  the 
river,  or  drive  to  an  hotel  at  Cairo  in  the  dark,  three 
miles  distant?  We  chose  the  former.  A crowd  of 
native  boatmen  were  anxious  to  convey  us. 

In  the  midst  of  negotiations  with  these  clamorous 
and  noisy  men,  a colored  signal  light  suddenly  appeared 
on  the  opposite  shore.  We  waited,  but  no  small  boat 
came,  neither  answer  to  my  shrill  whistle.  Negotiations 
were  renewed,  and  prices  of  the  rapacious  boatmen 
suddenly  fell,  when  I observed  ' with  the  aid  of  my 
glass  a dark  object  on  the  river  with  a light.  I again 
blew  my  whistle,  and  received  a reply.  Soon  El  Adli 
in  a small  boat  with  two  men  landed.  The  disap- 
pointed boatmen  were  noisy  and  troublesome  at  our 
departure,  and  we  were  glad  to  end  the  adventure 
and  be  once  more  at  home  on  the  “Gazelle,”  which  lay 
by  the  shore  for  the  night. 

The  morning  was  clear  and  calm,  with  thermometer 
at  60  at  sunrise.  A slight  fair  wind  soon  set  in,  and 
in  company  with  the  “Zarifa,”  which  had  followed  from 


SCENES  OF  THE  RIVER. 


37 


Boulak , we  hoisted  sail  at  8 a.  m.  ; a salute  was 
fired,  und  we  really  commenced  our  Nile  voyage  after 
having  been,  wind-bound  a week.  The  sailing  qualities 
of  the  respective  boats  were  tested,  and  found  to  be 
nearly  equal  with  a light  breeze,  but  as  it  freshened 
towards  night  we  beat  the  other  by  several  miles. 

During  the  night  we  passed  the  barracks  of  the 
black  regiments  of  the  Viceroy,  and  on  the  banks  of 
the  river  300  Africans,  naked,  except  a strip  of  cloth 
around  their  loins,  were  washing  their  white  canvas 
shirts,  trousers  and  jackets,  trimmed  with  orange  col- 
ored braid , which  constitute  the  uniform  of  the  in- 
fantry. Next  day  being  Friday,  the  Moslem  sabbath, 
explained  the  washing  day.  These  men  are  brought 
by  the  river  from  the  interior  of  Africa.  They  have 
their  heads  shaved  and  wear  the  fez,  like  all  Egyptians, 
dispensing  with  nature’s  covering.  The  river  was 
crowded  with  freight  boats  of  all  sizes,  bound  up, 
having  waited  for  the  fair  wind. 

The  next  day  was  very  cold  for  Egypt,  even  in 
winter,  the  mercury  standing  at  46  at  sunrise,  but 
rapidly  rose  as  the  burning  rays  of  the  sun  increased, 
and  reached  75  at  noon.  I intend  keeping  a daily 
record  of  the  temperature  during  our  voyage,  and  will 
at  its  termination  give  the  result.  We  had  passed  in 
the  night,  so  our  Dragoman  informed  us,  no  less  than 
300  sail  of  vessels.  A bright  moon  rendered  the  na- 
vigation easy,  and  our  swift  “Gazelle”  distanced  them 
all.  The  false  Pyramid  of  Rigga  was  now  in  sight 
(the  others  were  passed  yesterday),  and  we  were  half 
way  to  Benisoef,  one  of  the  eight  principal  cities  on 
the  river  at  which  passenger  boats  usually  stop.  Great 
quantities  of  pelicans,  cranes,  ducks,  and  geese  were 


38 


LETTER  V. 


seen  on  the  sand  bars,  which  tempted  us  to  take  the 
small  boat  and  have  a shot  at  them;  but  we  found 
our  double-barrels  did  not  carry  far  enough,  being 
only  16  calibre,  when  they  should  have  been  French 
number  12.  We  regret  not  having  brought  a modern 
rifle.  Formerly  these  birds  were  easily  reached,  but 
Lord  Landsborough,  who  made  a voyage  up  the  Nile 
on  a foolish  sporting  or  rather  slaughtering  expedition, 
to  see  how  many  head  of  game  he  could  kill,  brought 
a small  swivel  which  was  charged  with  balls  and  shot, 
and  when  mounted  on  a small  boat  made  tremendous 
havoc  among  the  ducks  and  geese  which  swarm  the 
sand  bars.  It  is  said  they  are  more  timid  since.  His 
lordship,  however,  made  a marvellous  count;  and  his 
exploits  at  shooting  no  doubt  have  made  him  famous 
in  sporting  circles. 

Pigeons,  of  which  there  were  many,  were  easily 
reached  with  our  pieces,  but  we  did  not  wish  to  loose 
the  fair  wind,  and  abandoned  the  sport. 

The  “Gazelle”  stuck  fast  on  a sand  bar  and  we  were 
detained  three  hours,  after  which  the  wind  dying 
away,  we  stopped  at  night  twenty-five  miles  from 
Benisoef.  The  morning  came  with  a light  fair  wind 
disclosing  the  “Zarifa”  in  sight  astern.  An  exciting  race 
followed,  which  continued  during  the  day  with  varied 
fortunes.  As  the  wind  died  away,  the  crews 
strained  every  nerve  at  pushing  with  their  long  poles, 
singing  and  shouting.  An  Egyptian  passenger  steamer 
was  passed  on  her  return  trip,  and  friends  saluted  on 
board  of  her  that  we  had  parted  with  on  their  leaving 
Cairo  the  10th  Dec. 

The  crews  of  the  “Gazelle”  and  “Zarifa”  (ours  having 
the  lead)  commenced  to  track  or  tow,  giving  us  the 


HEAD  WIND — ARRIVAL  AT  BENISOEF. 


39 


wished-for  opportunity  to  land  for  a walk.  Here  we 
saw  fields  of  corn  and  wheat,  villages  with  their  groves 
of  palm-trees  in  the  distance  over  the  prairie-like 
valley,  the  roilroad  in  course  of  construction  from 
Cairo  to  Sioot,  camels  travelling  on  the  highway  along 
the  river,  and  other  objects  of  interest.  The  sun  was 
hot  and  flies  somewhat  troublesome,  but  we  were 
amply  repaid  by  the  exercise  taken.  There  being  no 
breeze,  both  boats  had  to  tie  up  for  the  night,  only 
five  miles  from  the  city. 

A head  wind  prevailed  the  next  day,  a part  of 
which  we  remained  by  the  bank,  giving  us  the  oppor- 
tunity of  a chat  with  the  two  English  gentlemen  of 
the  “Zarifa.”  A sugar-cane  peddler  with  his  camel 
loaded  came  to  us,  and  we  and  the  crew  discussed  the 
merits  of  the  luscious  saccharine  stick.  Some  fish  were 
caught  by  our  waiters  and  served  upon  our  table,  but 
I cannot  say  they  equal  those  of  Boston  Bay. 

A delightful  walk  ashore  was  indulged  in  through 
fields  of  beans  which  extended  over  a hundred  acres. 
They  were  in  full  blossom,  and  a sprinkling  of  the 
sweet  pea  among  them  made  the  air  redolent  with 
perfume.  Unlike  the  beans  cultivated  in  America,  they 
grow  on  stout  stalks  two  or  three  feet  high,  with  large 
clusters  of  variegated  blossoms. 

About  noon  the  crew  commenced  “pushing,”  and  at 
five,  both  boats  reached  Benisoef,  where  we  stepped 
ashore  and  took  a walk  through  the  town.  It  ap- 
peared curious  to  us  with  its  narrow,  crooked,  covered, 
and  gloomy  passages.  Unexpectedly,  we  came  to  a 
sign  of  the  United  States  Consulate  Agency,  at  the 
door  of  which  stood  our  representative,  Narsala  Loga, 
an  Egyptian,  who  speaks  only  Arabic.  He  invited  us 


40 


LETTER  V. 


to  walk  in  and  take  coffee,  our  Dragoman  acting  as 
interpreter.  We  spent  a half  hour,  after  which  he 
accepted  an  invitation  to  visit  our  Dahabeeh,  returned 
with  us,  and  was  entertained  with  wine,  tea,  cakes, 
and  music  on  the  flute,  by  Doctor  R.  He  is  one 
of  several  appointed  by  Consul  General  Hale,  is  a 
wealthy  merchant  of  Cairo,  belongs  to  the  American 
church  there,  has  a large  plantation  near  Benisoef, 
and  Remains  there  only  about  four  months  in  winter 
to  attend  to  the  wants  of  American  travellers,  giving 
them  the  necessary  protection  if  needed,  settling  dis- 
putes, &c.,  all  without  any  pay  except  such  presents 
as  may  be  given  him.  But  he  has  the  honor  and 
advantage  of  the  office,  which  has  influence  with 
the  government  officers.  We  remained  “tied  up”  at 
the  landing  for  the  night,  and  my  next  will  commence 
with  our  departure  and  continuation  of  the  voyage. 


LETTER  VI. 


LEAVE  BENISOEF AN  EVENING  VISIT  TO  THE  “ZARIFA” 

HEAD  WIND — ‘‘TRACKING” SPORTING  EXCURSION 

THE  “CLEOPATRA”  COMES  UP ANOTHER  RACE — A 

NILE  FLEET EXCITING  COMPETITION  OF  BOAT  CREWS 

— WASHING  DAY — ROD  A — ABOOFAYDA — CROCODILES. 


Benisoef. — We  left  the  landing  and  minarets^  of 
Benisoef  early  in  the  morning,  and  commenced  “tracking,” 
the  “Zarifa”  following.  The  atmosphere  and  scenery 
invited  to  a walk  on  shore.  The  ladies  took  one 
direction,  while  two  of  us,  with  the  fowling  pieces, 
went  in  another,  more  distant  from  the  river,  keeping  in 
view  and  following  the  course  of  the  “Gazelle.”  Among 
the  birds  shot  was  a very  handsome  species  of  hawk. 
The  day,  like  most  of  those  on  a Dahabeeh,  was  spent 
in  reading,  writing,  drawing,  and  no  little  time  in 
eating.  There  being  no  wind,  at  night  we  came  to 
anchor,  with  the  “Zarifa”  just  astern,  and  soon  the 
gentlemen  received  an  invitation  from  Messrs.  Noel  and 
Bamsden,  through  their  Dragoman,  to  visit  them  on 
board  and  play  whist,  which  two  of  us  accepted.  We 
found  them  very  agreeable  and  sociable.  Mr.  N.  is  a 


42 


LETTEK  VI. 


member  of  Parliament,  and  had  been  in  the  United 
States  in  1859.  In  Boston  he  had  experienced  much 
hospitality  from  some  of  our  “first  families,”  and 
belonging  to  the  Reform  party  was  quite  eulogistic  of 
our  government,  especially  that  of  Massachusetts  and 
the  municipal  laws  of  Boston.  It  being  the  last  day 
of  the  year,  preparations  were  made  on  the  “Gazelle” 
for  some  little  surprises  for  New  Year’s  morn,  among 
the  R.  W.  L’s. 

It  proved  the  most  lovely  one  we  had  seen  on  the 
Nile.  The  temperature  was  65,  which  increased  at 
noon  to  75,  and  remained  in  evening  at  70  indoors, 
the  difference  between  which  and  the  deck  only  vary- 
ing from  3 to  5 degrees  at  any  time.  We  were  only 
about  80  miles  above  Cairo , and  tracking , there 
being  no  wind.  Several  steamers  passed  us,  one 
for  the  collection  of  taxes  sent  by  the  Viceroy  to 
swell  his  immense  revenues.  Many  of  these  are 
gathered  among  the  fella-lieen , or  poor  Arab  peas- 
antry, by  a most  despotic  and  wholesale  use  of  the 
whip  and  imprisonment.  All  of  us  went  on  shore 
again,  and  as  the  pigeons  were  thick,  we  took  our 
double-barrels.  The  view  where  we  landed  is  very 
pretty.  The  valley  of  the  Nile,  intensely  green,  is 
walled  in  each  side  by  the  distant  range  of  yellow 
limestone  hills  or  “mountains”  as  called  here,  and 
there  are  villages  of  mudbrick  walls,  and  clusters  of 
the  ever-present  palm-trees,  luxurious  crops  of  wheat 
about  a foot  high,  twenty-acre  fields  of  beans  in  full 
blossom,  white  clover  two  feet  high,  corn  and  lintels 
(the  latter  a kind  of  very  small  pea  raised  in  large 
quantities)  just  gathered  and  trodden  out  by  Buffaloes 
in  the  field.  Squash  vines  were  just  coming  out  of 


THE  CLEOPATRA  COMES  UP.  43 

the  ground,  protected  from  the  north  winds  by  wisps 
of  straw.  The  river  banks  travelled  by  a numerous 
and  strange  people,  presented  an  interesting  sight, 
while  the  fields  were  occupied  by  numerous  fellahs 
either  harvesting  or  watering  the  crops,  by  conducting 
the  water  raised  from  the  Nile  by  means  of  the 
well  sweep,  over  the  fields  in  little  channels  dug  in 
the  soil.  This  is  easily  done  in  the  mud  deposit  of 
the  Nile. 

It  was  interesting  to  me  as  I roamed  over  the  fields 
in  quest  of  game  to  meet  and  note  the  peculiarities 
of  this  degraded  and  down-trodden  race  of  men  of 
bronze.  They  came  around  me  with  childish  and 
rather  pressing  curiosity,  importuning  me  for  back- 
sheesh and  powder.  They  were  astonished  to  see  the 
breech-loader  and  my  revolver,  and  how  effective 
they  were  when  compared  with  the  few  old  flint  locks 
in  use  among  them.  Having  returned  to  our  boats 
with  our  game,  while  enjoying  the  scene  on  deck,  the 
tall  spar  and  pennant  of  a Dahabeeh  appeared  among 
a small  squadron  of  freight  boats  coming  up  with  a 
light  breeze , which  we  were  now  improving.  Her 
French  flag  and  signal  indicated  her  to  be  the  “Cleo- 
patra,” with  a party  of  three  French  counts  and  three 
other  gentlemen  who  had  left  Cairo  a week  before  us. 
We  sailed  all  night,  passing  about  300  sails,  during 
which  the  “Zarifa”  and  the  “Cleopatra”  got  ahead  of 
us  while  we  were  on  a sand  bar. 

The  next  morning  proved  a cloudy  one,  without  any 
material  change  in  the  temperature.  It  soon  cleared 
off  with  a good  breeze,  and  we  got  ahead  of  our  rival 
boats.  I counted  70  sails  in  sight,  50  of  which  were 
in  a close  line,  with  the  “Zarifa”  among  them.  The 


44 


LETTER  VI. 


sand  stone  bluffs  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river  re- 
minded me  of  those  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  near 
St.  Paul.  The  breeze  increased,  bringing  up  the 
“Cleopatra.”  She  passed  us,  and  we  passed  her  in  turn, 
the  crews  of  each  singing,  drumming,  and  shouting  at 
each  success  or  gain.  As  we  had  to  stop  to  take  in 
two  men  who  had  gone  to  market,  she  got  ahead 
again. 

About  dinner  time,  Minieh,  one  of  the  prettiest 
places  on  the  Nile,  was  in  sight,  also  an  American 
Dahabeeh,  named  the  “Nubia,”  formerly  the  Cairo.  We 
gained  on  the  “Cleopatra,”  and  came  up  with  her  close 
alongside.  She  attempted  to  run  into  us,  which  caused 
some  angry  words  between  the  respective  Dragomen, 
captains  and  crews  of  the  boats,  which  ended  in  an 
interference  of  the  French  gentlemen  of  the  “Cleopatra,” 
one  of  whom  administered  an  emphatic  rebuke  to  his 
Syrian  Dragoman,  as  it  appeared  to  us,  in  the  shape 
of  a blow.  The  crews  were  both  excited, — ours  because 
they  had  been  abused,  and  the  rules  of  the  river 
violated;  while  in  fairly  beating  them,  the  other  crew 
lost  their  temper,  and  the  Dragoman  his  sense  of  duty 
and  propriety.  We  left  them  astern,  and  passed 
Minieh,  the  wind  being  fair  and  reserved  this  among 
other  points  of  interest  for  our  return.  It  contains 
new  objects  of  interest  not  mentioned  in  any  guide- 
book, which  will  be  described  in  a future  letter. 

The  scenery  improved  as  we  advanced,  and  we  ad- 
mired the  manner  of  cultivation.  The  water-raisers 
were  numerous  on  the  banks,  each  station  employing 
three,  one  above  another,  about  five  feet  in  height 
apart,  with  sweeps  and  leathern  buckets,  which  raise 
and  deposit  the  water  from  one  reservoir  to  another, 


WASHING  DAY — RODA. 


45 


till  it  reaches  the  little  channels  on  the  surface.  In 
this  way  hundreds  of  thousands  work  to  water  the 
land  from  morning  till  night.  An  aqueduct  in  course 
of  construction,  with  thousands  of  Arabs  at  work  on 
it,  miles  of  palm-trees,  tombs,  and  ruins  of  towns 
— some  built  by  the  Romans, — made  up  the  variety 
of  the  panorama. 

The  routine  of  boat  life  was  broken  to-day  by  having 
our  washing  done  on  board  and  clothes  drying  on 
deck.  The  sunset  was  lovely,  but  we  lost  the  breeze, 
which  obliged  us  to  tie  up  at  the  shore  of  the  famous 
Beni-Hassan,  the  tombs  of  which  we  shall  visit  on  our 
return. 

The  morning  was  cool,  calm  and  foggy,  but  a clear 
sun  and  breeze  soon  followed.  Two  miles  astern  were 
our  old  neighbors,  amidst  a large  fleet  of  freight  boats, 
their  snowy  canvas  and  lofty  sails  making  a beautiful 
picture,  which  I attempted  to  sketch.  The  shores  as 
we  approached  Roda  increased  in  beauty,  and  a dozen 
tall  chimneys  of  the  steam  sugar-works  appeared, 
indicating  the  immense  business  done  at  these  the 
largest  establishments  of  the  kind  known.  They  belong 
to  the  Viceroy,  whose  great  monopoly  and  revenues 
are  hardly  estimated  or  known  in  America. 

Lofty  palms  and  acacias  became  more  abundant  as 
we  approached  the  picturesque  town,  where  the  new 
palace,  with  its  gardens  and  appurtenances  on  the  brink 
of  the  river,  have  a very  pretty  effect.  It  is  built  in 
the  European  style  by  a Greek  architect,  arid  not  yet 
furnished.  We  counted  220  camels  lengthened  out  a 
mile  in  single  file,  all  loaded  with  sugar-cane,  and 
slowly  with  measured  tread  wending  their  way  to  the 
mill.  Intending  to  visit  this  place  on  our  return,  we 


46 


LETTER  YI. 


sailed  past  with  a strong  fair  wind,  passing  beautiful 
groves  of  trees  and  vegetable  gardens. 

Many  rafts  of  earthen  water-jars  were  met.  They 
were  tied  together  two  deep,  each  raft  containing  1000. 
I counted  ten  rafts  in  one  lot.  They  are  made  in 
Kenneh,  in  immense  quantities,  and  used  both  for 
raising  and  transporting  water  and  other  liquids, 
being  about  two  feet  high  and  holding  5 gallons. 

Here  was  to  be  seen  the  ancient  water-wheel  in 
operation,  for  irrigation  along  the  banks.  On  it  jars 
are  bound  and  turned  by  a horizontal  cog-wheel  shaft, 
to  which  oxen  or  buffaloes  are  harnessed  in  the  primi- 
tive way  of  3000  years  ago.  The  fields  of  wheat,  bar- 
ley, beans,  grass,  lupins,  &c.,  were  in  a flourishing 
condition,  and  a perfect  prairie  of  wheat  extended  as 
fas  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Pelicans,  geese,  ducks,  and 
pigeons  were  seen  in  great  numbers.  We  took  a walk 
on  shore  and  enjoyed  a beautiful  sunset,  as  the  wind 
was  light  and  about  expiring.  The  “Gazelle”  lay  by 
the  shore  all  night,  with  the  “Zarifa”  and  “Cleopatra” 
just  astern. 

The  next  morning  was  mild  and  clear,  and  while  the 
crew  were  taking  breakfast  I went  ashore  and  shot  a 
very  pretty  hawk,  while  the  doctor  brought  as  his 
trophy  a crocodile  bird.  The  latter  is  about  the  size 
of  a large  robin,  pure  black  and  white,  and  is  said  to 
warn  the  crocodile  by  its  peculiar  cry.  They  are  very 
abundant,  and  crocodiles  scarce  in  this  region.  We 
saw  however  to-day,  as  we  passed  the  high  and 
curious  bluffs  of  Aboofayda , two  of  these  cele- 
brated and  once  idolized  monsters  of  the  Nile 
basking  in  the  sun  under  the  cliffs,  on  a bit  of  sand 
close  to  the  water’s  edgo.  They  were  pointed  out  by 


CROCODILES. 


47 


one  of  our  waiters,  otherwise  we  should  not  have 
noticed  their  peculiar  inanimate  loglike  forms.  We 
saluted  them  with  our  shot-guns,  the  contents  of  which 
rattled  harmlessly  on  their  hard  skins,  causing  them 
to  vanish  with  a sudden  plunge,  while  the  numerous 
caverns  and  chasms  in  these  cliffs  resounded  with  the 
echoes  of  our  guns  and  voices.  They  are  to  be  killed 
only  with  a ball,  either  through  the  eyes,  under  the 
neck,  or  fore-legs.  We  passed  an  old  Copt  convent 
and  many  old  tombs,  and  as  the  wind  was  light  had 
to  track  a part  of  the  day.  Sunset  was  a glorious 
one,  and  at  Manfaloot  we  tied  up  for  the  night. 


LETTER  VII. 


MANFALOOT — ANOTHER  RACE  AND  NEARLY  AN  ARAB 

BOATMEN  FIGHT SIOOT  — A STRONG  BREEZE SOHAG 

BREAD-MAKING TEMPLE  OF  DENDERAH  — ARRIVAL 

AT  THEBES — VISIT  TO  LADY  DUFF  GORDON VI- 

SITORS, AND  ILLUMINATION  OF  THE  “gazelle.” 


On  the  morning  of  the  5th  of  January  we  were 
only  just  above  Manfaloot,  once  an  important  town, 
but  is  described  by  Murray  and  others  as  “nearly 
washed  away.”  We  omitted  stopping,  being  out  of 
sight  of  any  Dahabeeh;  and,  as  the  crew  were  tracking, 
we  took  the  guns  ashore,  and  had  a long  tramp  after 
game  across  an  extensive  plain  covered  with  flourishing 
crops.  A distant  view  of  Sioot  was  had  while  tied  up 
at  the  bank  for  the  evening.  All  was  quiet,  when  I 
heard  what  I supposed  was  a steamer  passing  us;  but 
a stir  on  deck,  and  orders  rapidly  given,  explained 
the  cause.  A breeze  had  sprung  up  while  our  men 
were  sleeping,  and  our  rivals,  the  “Zarifa”  and  “Cleo- 
patra,” were  improving  it.  We  soon  overhauled  and 
passed  them. 

The  next  morning  was  calm  and  cloudy.  The  “Zarifa” 
and  “Cleopatra”  were  just  astern.  An  exciting  race  of 
“pushing”  now  took  place.  It  was  neck  and  neck  with  the 
“Cleopatra”  and  “Gazelle.”  The  crews  abused  each  other 


SIOOT. 


49 


in  noisy  Arabic.  The  former  got  ahead  with  a little 
breeze,  but  we  distanced  them  in  pushing,  and  finally 
gained  the  lead  on  the  tow-path. 

At  breakfast  time,  our  men  having  the  track,  tied  up 
as  usual,  expecting  the  “Cleopatra”  would  do  the  same ; 
instead  of  which,  she  passed  us,  contrary  on  the  rules. 
Our  captain  and  crew,  incensed,  sprung  to  their  poles, 
and  cast  off  amid  a general  medley  of  abuse.  Our  men 
began  to  strip  for  a fight  with  those  of  the  “Cleopatra” 
who  were  on  the  bank  tracking.  I had  to  interfere, 
and  forbid  any  fighting  in  the  presence  of  ladies.  They 
reluctantly  obeyed,  for  the  provocation  was  great.  The 
“Cleopatra”  soon  stopped  for  the  men  to  take  their  break- 
fast, when  we  resumed  our  proper  place.  A breeze  sprang 
up,  and  we  soon  reached  the  landing  of  the  principal 
city  of  Upper  Egypt,  with  our  colors  flying  in  gallant 
style,  those  of  the  English  and  French  closely  following. 

In  ten  minutes  we  were  all  ashore,  mounted  on 
donkeys,  which  are  always  in  readiness  at  the  landing 
to  convey  passengers  to  the  city,  two  miles  off.  It 
contains  about  20,000  inhabitants,  and,  with  its  fifteen 
minarets,  backed  by  high  mountains,  makes  a very  fine 
appearance.  The  ride  was  through  beautiful  green  fields 
and  gardens,  with  numerous  acacia  and  palmtrees  on 
each  side  of  a causeway  whose  tortuous  windings 
must  have  been  planned  for  the  defences  of  the  city. 

After  visiting  the  busy  and  well  supplied  bazaars, 
we  called  on  the  Consular  Agent  and  gave  him  some 
letters  to  forward  to  America.  Returning  to  the  boat 
we  had  a visit  from  our  friends  of  the  “Zarifa.”  The 
morning  brought  a fair  wind,  and  preparations  were 
made  for  sailing.  A sheep  killed  for  the  men,  according 
to  custom,  was  hanging  up  to  the  rigging.  The  breeze 

4 


50 


LETTER  VII. 


increased,  and  we  soon  were,  for  the  first  time,  sailing 
with  as  much  wind  as  we  wanted,  making  10  miles  an 
hour,  and  the  boat  stiff  and  steady.  We  passed  16  rafts 
and  several  vessel-loads  of  the  Kenneh  water-jars. 

Nikileh,  a Copt  or  Christian  town,  appeared  so  in- 
viting, especially  in  the  quantity  of  wild  pigeons  flying 
in  its  close  vicinity,  decided  us  to  put  it  in  our  list  of 
downward  stoppages.  A Dahabeeh  under  English  colors 
was  lying  by,  on  account  of  the  dreaded  wind  off  the 
mountains  of  Shekh  Harida,  which  we  soon  after 
passed.  We  had  made  50  miles,  mostly  in  about 
6 hours.  The  wind  died  away  in  the  evening,  and 
we  tied  up  for  the  night. 

This  being  the  fast  of  Ramadan,  neither  our  Drago- 
man br  Reis  would  eat  or  drink  anything  between 
sunrise  or  sunset-  The  fast,  lasts  30  days,  commencing 
with  the  first  new s moon  of  the  month.  The  evening 
was  pleasantly  passed  in  playing  charades  and  other 
games,  to  which  our  Dragoman  being  invited,  partici- 
pated in.  He  also  sang  in  a low  voice  an  Arabic  tune,  to 
which  he  improvised  words  of  good  wishes  to  the  party. 

The  morning  brought  us  a head  wind,  and  we  took 
our  guns,  bringing  back  a fine  lot  of  pigeons.  We 
were  now  in  sight  of  Sohag,  at  which  our  Dragoman 
determined  to  stop  to  bake  bread  for  the  crew,  as 
wheat  was  cheaper  here.  They  find  their  own  food  on 
board,  and  have  a cook  especially  for  themselves.  It 
consists  principally  of  wheat  bread  baked  hard  in 
biscuit  form  without  leaven.  This  is  soaked  in  water 
and  made  into  a mush,  which  is  eaten  with  lentils 
and  onions,  boiled  into  a soup.  The  wheat  is  bought 
at  the  principal  towns  on  the  river,  where  there 
are  millstones  for  grinding,  turned  by  a mule  or 


SOHAGr. 


51 


buffalo.  The  crew  make  it  up  themselves  and  bake  it 
in  the  ovens  of  the  town  hired  for  the  purpose.  No 
meat  is  eaten  by  them  except  when  a sheep  is  given 
them  occasionally  on  the  voyage  as  a present. 

We  reached  Sohag  not  before  night,  owing  to  the 
light  breeze.  The  “Zarifa”  passed  us,  as  its  crew  baked 
their  bread  at  another  place,  without  stopping  here. 

We  were  aroused  the  next  morning  before  light  by 
a gun  fired  from  the  esplanade  of  the  Government 
House  near  us,  a signal  for  Mussulmen  to  pray  and 
eat  before  sunrise,  the  time  for  those  keeping 
Ramadan.  I took  an  early  stroll  ashore  with  my 
gun  and  brought  back  enough  pigeons  for  our  break- 
fast, after  which  we  all  went  into  town  to  see  the 
process  of  bread-making  and  baking.  Some  schools, 
a new  mosque,  and  the  bazaars  were  visited.  In  the 
latter  we  encountered  two  Greeks,  one  of  whom  offered 
to  show  us  his  quarters  in  an  English  commercial 
house,  established  here  for  the  purchase  of  produce. 
He  gave  his  name  as  Nicolas  Quibeologas,  entertained 
us  with  refreshments,  and  took  us  over  the  Government 
House,  introducing  us  to  the  Governor,  who,  on  our 
entrance  politely  received  us,  dimissing  some  native 
merchants  who  were  having  some  business  difficulty 
adjusted.  We  were  offered  but  declined  refreshments, 
and  as  the  Governor  could  speak  only  Arabic  we  soon 
took  leave.  Our  Greek  friends  accompanied  us  to  the 
“Gazelle”  and  were  entertained  till  our  crew  were  ready 
to  sail.  They  were  delighted  to  meet  us,  as  it  is  rare 
they  see  Europeans  or  Americans,  Sohag  being  rarely 
visited  by  them.  The  town  has  5000  inhabitants  and 
a garrison  of  500  soldiers.  We  left  at  noon  just  as 
an  English  Dahabeeh  had  passed,  but  we  soon  over- 


U.  OF  ILL  LIB. 


52 


LETTER  VII. 


hauled  and  outsailed  her,  with  a good  breeze.  The 
town  of  Girgeh  was  passed  at  night,  were  the  “Zarifa” 
was  observed  lying  for  her  crew  to  make  bread.  This 
was  formerly  the  capital  of  Upper  Egypt  and  now 
ranks  next  to  Sioot.  Excursions  to  the  ruins  of  Aby- 
dus  are  sometimes  made  from  this  town  by  a three 
hours’  ride  on  donkeys,  while  the  boat  proceeds  up 
the  river.  We  preferred,  as  we  had  a fair  wind,  to 
visit  it  from  the  nearer  point  of  Bellianeh  on  our 
return,  keeping  our  boat  there,  thus  saving  a long  ride 
and  avoiding  the  uncertainty  of  the  boat’s  movements. 

The  wind  failed  us  in  the  night,  during  which  we 
were  on  a sand  bar  an  hour  and  finally  tied  up. 

A good  progress  was  made  the  next  day  with  a 
fair  wind.  We  passed  a fine  sugar-growing  country 
with  another  species  of  palm  called  the  “dome,” 
not  found  in  Lower  Egypt.  At  night  we  had  but  a 
light  wind  and  the  morning  found  us  near  Kenneh, 
opposite  which  is  the  temple  of  Dunderah,  six  miles 
from  the  shore.  This  we  determined  to  visit  and  ac- 
cordingly we  stopped  for  the  purpose. 

While  getting  in  readiness  a Dahabeeh  with  Ame- 
rican colors  came  drifting  down  with  the  current.  She 
proved  to  be  the  “Sancho,”  with  Messrs.  Mifflin,  Tiffany 
and  Wells  of  New-York,  who  were  the  first  party  up 
the  Nile  this  season. 

We  were  all  soon  mounted  on  donkeys,  rambling 
along  at  a fast  pace  beside  fields  of  wheat,  lentils, 
beans,  &c.,  bordered  by  numerous  and  various  kinds 
of  trees,  among  which  were  the  dome  palm.  These 
have  a short  trunk  with  thick  clusters  of  leaves  form- 
ing the  shape  of  a dome  somewhat  flattened. 

Passing  through  a small  miserable  mud  village 


TEMPLE  OF  DENDERAH. 


53 


with  inhabitants  but  half  clad  and  children  nude,  we 
came  in  sight  of  the  once  stately  temple  of  Denderah, 
with  its  huge  gate  half  sunk  among  the  debris  of 
Tentyra.  Nothing  of  the  town  remains  but  this  temple, 
in  a remarkable  state  of  preservation.  Its  whole  in- 
terior and  exterior  walls  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics 
in  bas-relief.  The  open  entrance  hall,  or  portico,  has 
24  columns,  60  feet  high,  and  eight  in  diameter,  in  a 
space  100  by  70  feet.  Then  succeeds  another  hall  of 
6 columns  with  three  rooms  on  each  side,  after  that 
a central  chamber  and  the  sanctuary  behind  it.  This 
sanctuary  has  a passage  leading  around  it  with  three 
rooms  on  each  side.  The  whole  length  of  the  temple 
is  about  250  feet;  and  the  gate  stands  nearly  300  feet 
distant  in  front.  This  space  once  constituted  the  dro- 
mos , and  is  now  a heap  of  rubbish.  But  the  temple 
cannot  fail  to  gratify  the  tourist,  and  should  be  seen 
before  its  more  gigantic  rivals  at  Karnak. 

We  returned  highly  pleased  with  our  visit,  and  sailed 
in  the  evening,  with  the  “Cleopatra”  following  us  close 
by.  Nothing  occurred  the  next  day  remarkable.  The 
weather  was  lovely  as  usual.  We  passed  many  villages, 
game  became  abundant ; some  pigeons  were  killed ; the 
“Zarifa”  came  up  in  sight,  and  the  “Cleopatra”  by  a ruse 
got  ahead  of  us  in  pushing.  The  sunset  was  a gorgeous 
one,  the  river  like  a mirror  and  thermometer  78,  which 
fell  9 degrees  in  15  minutes  after  the  sun  went  down. 

January,  13th. — This  sabbath  morning  was  another 
clear  and  warm  one,  with  no  wind.  We  were  tracking 
and  came  in  sight  of  Thebes,  or  Luxor,  the  long-looked- 
for  city,  whose  ruins  are  so  world-wide  known  and 
admired.  As  we  passed  the  flag  of  the  Consulate  a 
salute  was  fired  by  us,  and  the  “Cleopatra”  and  “Zarifa” 


54 


LETTER  VIT. 


were  soon  moored  beside  us.  We  landed  immediately 
and  made  a call  on  the  venerable  Mustapha  Aga,  Con- 
sular agent  of  the  United  States  and  Great  Britain. 
After  getting  our  letters  and  papers  which  had  been 
forwarded  by  our  bankers  in  Cairo,  we  had  pipes 
and  coffee  and  then  visited  the  temple,  over  a part 
of  which  vthe  Consulate  is  built,  as  is  also  the  house 
of  Lady  Duff  Gordon,  who  is  residing  here.  * We  called 
on  her  after  sending  our  cards,  which  brought  her 
servant  to  our  boat  with  an  invitation.  When  we  en- 
tered the  presence  of  this  eccentric  woman  she  was 
dressed  in  half  Arab  costume,  sitting  on  a low  divan 
with  her  dinner  before  her  on  a low  stand.  She  was 
eating  with  her  fingers  in  Arab  style,  and  received 
us  without  rising  with  as  much  sang  froicl  as  an 
Eastern  princess.  We  found  her,  however,  disposed  to 
conversation,  which  turned  on  the  subject  of  the  state 
of  the  country  and  people.  She  displayed  much  in- 
terest for  the  Arabs,  and  considerable  intelligence  on 
matters  and  things  generally.  She  is  an  authoress,  as 
is  also  her  mother,  Mrs.  Austin,  in  England. 

We  were  visited  by  Mr.  Smith  of  New-York,  a 
resident  of  the  place,  who  takes  an  interest  in  antiqui- 
ties and  Americans  who  visit  Thebes.  In  the  evening 
we  had  a call  from  our  friends  of  the  “Zarifa,”  Messrs. 
Noel  and  Kamsden,  and  our  tea-table  was  well  filled 
in  the  saloon  of  the  “Gazelle.”  She  was  illuminated  on 
the  occasion  of  our  arrival  at  Thebes  by  64  colored 
lanterns,  strung  along  the  decks. 


* This  lady  has  since  died. 


LETTER  VIII. 


AT  THEBES VISIT  TO  THE  OPPOSITE  TEMPLES  AND  TOMBS 

ARRIVAL  OF  THE  SONS  OF  THE  VICEROY RECEP- 
TION ON  BOARD  THEIR  STEAMER DEPARTURE  FROM 

THEBES— STEAM  SUGAR-WORKS  AT  ERMENT~ ARRIVAL 

AT  ESNEH ITS  TEMPLE — INVITATION  OF  AND  VISIT 

TO  THE  PRINCES. 


At  Thebes  the  weather  was  fine,  calm,  and  clear, 
with  thermometer  at  53  at  sunrise  and  75  at  2 to  4 
p.  m.  There  was  little  variation  from  this  during 
the  three  days  we  remained  here.  The  first  morning 
^we  crossed  the  river  to  make  an  excursion  on  donkeys 
to  see  the  temples,  a guide,  donkey  boys,  and  girls 
with  jars  of  water  on  their  heads,  attending  us.  The 
two  Colossi , or  sitting  statues,  on  the  plain,  were  first 
visited.  They  were  erected  by  King  Amunoph,  on  the 
great  “Kingsway”  leading  to  Luxor.  Their  length  is 
53  feet,  18  feet  3 inches  across  the  shoulders,  16  feet 
from  shoulder  to  elbows,  10  y2  from  crown  of  head 
to  shoulders,  and  19  feet  8 inches  from  knees  to  soles 
of  the  feet. 

We  next  went  to  the  ruins  of  the  temple  palace 
of  Medinet  Habou,  classed  amongst  the  largest  edifices 


LETTER  VIII. 


50 

of  Egypt.  The  royal  Castle  of  Rameses  III.,  a young 
Pharaoh  king,  has  three  pyramidal  towers,  two  in  front 
and  on&  in  rear,  with  court,  windows,  and  balconies 
richly  sculptured.  This  was  once  a royal  harem. 

At  the  right  is  a succession  of  temples  several  hun- 
dred feet  long  with  gigantic  pylons  and  columns,  which 
with  the  halls  are  all  sculptured  over  their  entire 
surfaces  with  bas-reliefs  representing  the  deeds  and 
greatness  of  Rameses  and  the  triumphs  of  the  Pharaoh 
kings  over  their  enemies  in  Asia.  The  scenes  of  bat- 
tles, marching  armies,  triumphal  return  with  prisoners, 
would  take  a hundred  of  my  pages  to  describe  fully, 
and  the  extent,  amount  of  labor,  and  beauty  of  exe- 
cution surpass  belief.  The  whole  is  sadly  mutilated, 
but  3000  years  ago  it  must  have  been  beautiful,  espe- 
cially the  coloring,  some  of  which  yet  remains. 

Two  hours  were  spent  in  examining  this  vast  pile 
of  ruins  and  then  we  mounted  to  the  top  walls  and 
thence  through  one  of  the  upper  tower  windows  into 
the  same  to  take  our  lunch,  after  which  we  went  to 
the  Memnonium,  which  for  noble  proportions  and  sym- 
metry of  its  architecture,  is  considered  one  of  the  most 
celebrated  works  of  Egyptian  art.  The  propylon  it 
234  feet  in  length,  and  principal  edifice  600  feet  long 
by  200  broad,  with  6 courts,  6 chambers  and  160 
columns.  At  the  entrance  of  'the  second  court  once  sat 
the  colossal  figure  of  King  Rameses  II.,  large  frag- 
ments of  which  are  scattered  about,  though  a part 
remains  intact.  It  was  the  largest  statue  ever  made  by 
the  Egyptians,  measuring  60  feet  high,  and  weighing 
900  tons.  It  is  of  splendid  reddish  granite,  without  flaw 
or  seam,  finely  polished,  and  cut  with  hieroglyphics. 
It  was  in  one  mass,  and  brought  from  the  cataracts 


THE  TEMPLE  PALACE  OE  KOORNAH. 


57 


of  the  Nile,  200  miles  distant.  On  the  statue  was 
inscribed,  “I  am  the  King  of  Kings,  Osimandyas ; if 
any  one  wish  to  know  how  great  I am,  and  where  I 
lie,  let  him  surpass  one  of  my  works.” 

I omit  any  further  description,  and  conclude  our 
day’s  journey  by  a ride  to  the  Temple  Palace  of  Ko  or - 
nah , about  a mile  from  the  river  opposite  Karnak.  It 
was  began  by  Osirei,  completed  by  Rameses  III.,  and 
dedicated  to  Amun,  the  Jupiter  of  Egypt. 

We  returned  by  5 p.  m.  to  our  boat,  and  re-crossed 
to  the  “Gazelle,”  on  board  of  which  the  Governor,  Con- 
sul, and  some  friends  were  entertained  in  the  evening. 
Our  companions,  the  “Cleopatra”  and  the  “Zarifa,”  left 
during  the  night. 

The  next  day  was  spent  in  visiting  the  tombs  of 
the  priests  in  the  Yale  of  Assasif.  The  Governor  sent 
a guard  with  us  to  keep  us  from  being  annoyed  by 
a crowd  asking  for  backsheesh  and  offering  antique 
relics. 

The  hills  west  of  the  Memnonium  are  full  of  tombs, 
built  by  wealthy  priests  of  the  26th  dynasty,  700  years 
before  Christ,  and  are  remarkable  for  their  extent  and 
the  quantity  of  sculpture  and  materials  with  which 
they  are  ornamented.  That  belonging  to  the  priest 
Petamunap:  is  the  largest,  being,  as  all  are,  hewn  out 
of  the  solid  rock,  and  to  the  extent  in  apartments  and 
passages  of  862  feet  in  length,  with  a space  of  230,809 
cubic  feet.  The  first  is  a court,  103  feet  long  by  76 
broad,  leading  to  a smaller  one  supported  by  pillars, 
and  several  others  in  succession  with  columns.  From 
thence  by  passages  and  descending  stairs  other  apart- 
ments are  reached.  All  of  the  entire  surfaces  are 
covered  with  sculpture,  but  the  beauty  of  this  as  well 


58 


LETTER  VIII. 


as  the  other  tombs  are  gone,  by  a wholesale  mutila- 
tion, most  of  the  columns  being  carried  off. 

Those  in  the  mountain  Abd-el-Koornah  were  next 
examined,  of  which  No.  35  is  the  most  interesting, 
though  inferior  in  size  to  that  preceding.  It  is  re- 
markable for  faithfully  portraying  scenes  on  its  walls, 
novel  as  they  are  interesting.  Innumerable  figures  in 
bas-relief  and  colored,  represent  processions  of  black 
and  red  men  bringing  presents  of  leopards,  monkeys, 
hides,  dried  fruit  and  ebony.  Other  men,  of  a pale 
red  color,  with  presents  of  vases,  necklaces,  &c.  Egyp- 
tians with  gold  rings,  monkeys,  leopards,  ivory,  ostrich 
eggs,  feathers,  giraffes,  hounds  with  collars,  and  oxen. 
Northern  nations  with  gloves,  vases,  horses,  a carriage, 
elephants  and  ivory.  All  these  presents  are  being 
laid  before  Pharaoh,  who  is  sitting  upon  his  throne 
attended  by  his  secretaries,  who  are  noting  down  the 
presents.  Egyptian  artisans  of  various  kinds  are  re- 
presented, such  as  carpenters,  rope-makers,  sculptors, 
brickmakers,  workers  of  metals,  painters,  and  many 
others,  giving  a good  idea  of  the  manners  and  customs 
of  the  ancient  Egyptians. 

After  spending  about  three  hours  under  ground  in 
examining  these  and  others,  we  rode  to  the  Memnonium 
under  a scorching  sun,  and  spread  our  lunch  in  the 
cool  shades  of  the  columns  of  the  temple,  where  we 
remained  for  nearly  two  hours.  The  ladies  had  en- 
joyed the  subterranean  researches,  and  experienced  no 
disagreeable  sensation  from  the  air  of  the  tombs,  which 
is  perfectly  dry  and  without  offensive  odor. 

We  reached  our  Dahabeeh  at  4 p.  m.,  to  find  the 
saloon  at  a temperature  of  80  degrees. 

The  three  princes,  sons  of  Ismail  Pasha,  Viceroy  of 


RECEPTION  BY  THE  PRINCES. 


59 


Egypt,  being  expected,  preparations  were  made  on 
shore  to  receive  them.  Our  lanterns  were  all  put  in 
requisition,  and  lighted  on  the  landing  in  front  of  the 
consul’s.  They  arrived  with  three  steamers  at  7 p.  m., 
but  did  not  land. 

The  next  day  the  princes  visited  Karnak,  and  on 
their  return  we  received  an  invitation  through  our  con- 
sul to  be  presented  to  them  in  the  evening  on  board 
their  steamer.  Late  in  the  afternoon  we  attended  an 
exhibition  of  Arab  horsemanship,  got  up  for  their  enter- 
tainment, and  were  seated  near  them.  The  lads  were 
dressed  in  European  suits  of  blue  with  the  fez,  and 
seated  on  an  elegant  divan.  Their  names  are  Ahamed 
(the  Prince  Imperial  and  heir  to  the  throne),  13  years 
old;  Hassan  and  Hassanein,  of  the  respective  ages  of 
10  and  11  years.  Having  sent  our  cards  our  whole 
party  went  on  board  at  8 p.  m.,  and  were  presented 
by  Sherif  Pasha,  late  minister  of  Public  Works  and 
now  member  of  the  Conseil  d’Etat. 

They  were  on  the  quarter-deck  and  remained  seated 
on  a divan  of  gilt  frame,  upholstered  with  satin  da- 
mask covering,  there  being  another  of  the  same  placed 
opposite  with  four  chairs  to  match,  for  the  use  of  the 
guests.  The  ladies  were  permitted  to  salute  them  with 
the  hands,  while  the  gentlemen  only  touched  the  fez 
they  wore,  as  we  were  each  presented  by  name.  After 
being  seated,  pipes  and  coffee  were  handed  us.  The 
former  were  studded  with  diamonds,  with  amber  mouth- 
pieces, and  richly  decorated,  the  bowls  attached  to  the 
long  stems  resting  on  the  floor.  The  ladies  according 
to  etiquette  condescended  to  imbibe  a whiff  or  two 
of  the  fragrant  Latakia.  Conversation  in  French  was 
carried  on  with  them  and  their  preceptor  and  physician 


60 


LETTER  VIII. 


for  half  an  hour,  when  we  took  leave.  The  latter, 
Selim  Bey,  accompanied  us  to  our  boat,  and  was  treated 
to  champaign  and  cigarettes. 

The  following  morning  was  cloudless  and  beautiful 
as  ever,  without  any  air  stirring  to  ruffle  the  deep, 
broad  mass  of  silently  moving  water.  Starting  on 
our  voyage,  tracking  of  course  had  to  be  resorted  to. 
We  were  accompanied  by  three  other  Dahabeehs,  all 
of  us  being  towed  till  we  reached  Erment,  where  we 
stopped  in  the  afternoon  to  examine  the  steam  sugar- 
works  of  the  Viceroy.  These,  next  to  those  of  Rhoda, 
are  the  largest  in  the  world.  The  buildings  and  all 
the  appurtenances  and  machinery,  under  a French  en- 
gineer, were  in  excellent  order,  the  boilers  and  metal 
coolers  bright  and  clean.  Twenty  revolving  kettles, 
making  1200  revolutions  a minute,  converted  the  damp 
brown  sugar  into  a dry  white,  in  five  minutes. 

Returning  to  our  boat,  we  witnessed  a most  gorgeous 
sunset,  and  an  immense  number  of  geese  in  successive 
flocks,  their  screams  filling  the  air,  as  their  crooked 
lines  sailed  over  us.  The  bright  moon  soon  threw  her 
radiant  light  over  the  scene,  and  was  reflected  in  the 
mirrored  river. 

The  next  day  was  a repetition  of  the  same  weather. 
We  took  a stroll  ashore,  saw  women  with  rings  in 
their  noses,  men  nearly  naked  and  children  entirely 
so, — no  new  sight  to  us.  A mass  of  pelicans,  geese  and 
ducks  on  a sand-bar  would  have  been  a harvest  for 
one  of  Lord  Landsborough’s  swivels.  The  steamers, 
with  the  princes  on  board  the  largest,  passed  us  and 
received  a salute,  which  was  returned,  the  princes 
waiving  their  handkerchiefs. 

A breeze  sprang  up  and  carried  us  in  gallant  style 


TEMPLE  AT  ESNEH. 


61 


to  Esneh,  which  was  gay  with  flags,  streamers  and  de- 
corations on  four  steamers  and  some  government  boats. 
Our  fleet  of  three  American  and  two  English  Dahabeehs 
enhanced  the  beauty  of  the  scene.  The  princes  were 
there,  and  preparations  being  made  for  illuminations, 
in  which  we  joined.  We  went  immediately  to  visit  the 
temple  in  the  midst  of  the  town,  the  interior  of  which 
cleared  out  by  Mehemet  Ali,  discloses  a beautifully 
proportioned  portico,  with  24  immense  columns  19  feet 
in  circumference,  and  65  feet  in  height,  with  capitals 
of  papyrus,  doura,  palm,  date  and  vine  leaves,  dis- 
posed of  in  charming  order  in  tulip  form.  This  palace 
was  built  in  the  reigns  of  Claudius,  Vespasian  and 
Titus,  three  sides  of  which  outside  yet  lie  buried 
beneath  the  debris  of  the  town.  A half  mile  down  the 
river  brought  us  to  the  palace  of  Mehemet  Ali,  in 
front  of  which  arbors  of  palms  and  decorations  in 
honor  of  the  princes  were  erected. 

We  were  there  met  by  their  preceptor  and  physi- 
cian, who  informed  us  it  was  the  fourth  anniversary 
of  the  Viceroy’s  accession  to  the  throne  of  Egypt, 
that  it  would  give  the  princes  pleasure  to  have  us 
attend  a soiree  on  board  that  evening,  and  that  they 
would  call  and  accompany  us  from  our  boat  at  9 3/4 
o’clock.  We  accepted  their  invitation  and  were  then 
conducted  over  the  gardens  of  the  palace,  and  bouquets 
of  flowers  culled  for  the  ladies  by  them.  The  “Gazelle” 
was  again  illuminated,  as  were  also  the  four  steamers 
of  the  Viceroy’s  other  boats,  and  the  landing.  At  the 
appointed  time  the  gentlemen  came,  when  our  musical 
crew  conveyed  us  by  the  river  to  the  steamer,  singing 
all  the  while  their  Arab  songs,  much  to  the  enjoyment 
of  the  princes.  The  quarter-deck  of  the  steamer  was 


62 


LETTER  VIII. 


decorated  with  palms  and  flags,  an  awning  with  sides 
spread,  and  the  whole  brilliantly  lighted.  We  were  re- 
ceived as  before,  except  with  greater  cordiality,  and 
were  told  that  had  not  the  breeze  sprung  up  that 
day  a steamer  would  have  been  detailed  to  tow  us  to 
Esneh  for  this  occasion.  Two  gentlemen  from  Phila- 
delphia, in  another  American  boat,  were  the  only  re- 
cipients with  our  party  of  this  hospitality.  Coffee  and 
pipes  were  followed  by  a spirited  conversation  in 
French  for  an  hour,  during  which  I conversed  most 
of  the  time  with  the  youngest  prince,  next  to  whom 
I sat.  Our  conversation  was  about  Egypt,  Turkey  and 
America,  and  resources  of  the  latter.  He  reminded 
me  that  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia  at  Constantinople 
was  once  a Christian  church,  and  his  conversation 
displayed  considerable  modesty  and  intelligence  for 
one  of  his  years.  Champaign,  cake  and  fruit  were 
handed  round ; afterwards  coffee  for  the  gentlemen 
and  tea  for  the  ladies.  As  the  latter  were  about  to 
take  leave , each  of  the  princes  rose  from  the  divan 
and  handed  them  elegant  bouquets. 

We  returned  at  11  o’clock  to  our  boat,  highly 
gratified  with  this  unlooked-for  episode  in  life  on  the 
Nile. 


LETTER  IX. 


ON  THE  VOYAGE PASS  SILSILIS  — TEMPLE  OF  OMBOS  — 

APPROACH  TO  ASOUAN — ARRIVAL  AND  SALUTES  EX- 
CHANGED WITH  THE  STEAMERS  OF  THE  PRINCES — 
CHANGE  OF  RIG  OF  THE  “GAZELLE”  FOR  HOME  VOYAGE 

VISIT  TO  PHILiE  BY  MOON  LIGHT — DEATH  OF 

DOCTOR  BROWNELL ELEPHANTINE  ISLAND  — A BOAT 

EXCURSION  AROUND  IT. 


The  d&y  succeeding  that  of  our  entertainment  by 
the  Princes  at  Esneh,  was  spent  at  that  place,  where 
our  crew  had  their  second  bread-baking.  The  Royal 
party  left  for  the  cataract  before  us,  and  salutes  were 
again  exchanged  as  they  passed.  We  left  with  a good 
breeze,  which  soon  died  away.  The  following  day, 
Sunday,  was  perfectly  clear  and  calm.  The  events 
were : overtaking  the  “Nubia,”  or  Cairo,  on  which  were 
Drs.  Post  and  Brownell  of  New  York,  whom  we  had 
met  before ; a Sunday  service,  as  usual,  of  reading  an 
appropriate  historical  portion  of  the  Old  Testament, 
and  singing  familiar  sacred  hymns;  a short  walk  ashore; 
the  meeting  of  an  English  arid  two  American  Daha- 
beehs  bound  down;  an  excessive  heat  of  108  in  the 
sun,  a slight  breeze;  seeing  about  a thousand  geese 
congregated  on  a sand-bar  very  near  us  (they  probably 


64 


LETTER  IX. 


knew  it  was  Sunday);  the  passing  of  the  mountain 
and  quarries  of  Silsillis  by  moonlight;  another  calm, 
and  a tie  up  for  the  night. 

A succession  of  calms  and  light  variable  breezes 
brought  us  to  Ombos  the  next  day.  The  three  steamers 
of  the  princes,  that  had  stopped  the  two  nights  previ- 
ous, overtook  and  passed  us,  salutes  being  exchanged 
as  usual.  We  landed  to  explore  the  ruins  of  this 
Temple,  or  the  smaller  portions  of  it,  once  of  immense 
size.  Only  a portico  with  13  columns  remains,  standing 
in  a fine  situation  overlooking  the  river  and  three 
quarters  buried  in  sand.  It  was  built  like  those  of 
Thebes,  from  the  sandstone  quarries  of  Silsilis,  by 
Ptolemseus  Philometer  and  Dionysius.  Our  progress 
towards  Asouan  was  slow,  but  not  tedious.  We  had 
again  to  tie  up  for  want  of  wind,  and  at  midnight 
our  old  friends  of  the  “Zarifa”  passed  us  floating  down 
with  the  current,  having  “done”  the  first  cataract  of 
the  Nile,  and  now  on  their  return. 

The  following  day,  the  22d  of  January,  was,  as 
regards  weather,  a repetition  of  the  preceding  ones, 
the  thermometer  ranging  from  50  to  75  in  our  saloon. 
We  were  near  our  voyage’s  end,  the  scenery  became 
materially  changed,  and  the  hills  on  each  side  of  the 
river  were  more  rocky,  drawing  nearer  together,  leaving 
only  a narrow  strip  of  land  bordering  on  the  river, 
cultivated  with  small  patches  of  lupins  in  full  blossom, 
tobacco  and  various  kinds  of  vegetables.  Very  few  birds 
of  any  kind  were  seen,  and  none  of  the  larger  tribe  of 
them.  The  heights  around  Asouan  became  visible,  aiid 
a breeze  which  had  sprung  up  brought  us  to  the  town 
at  noon.  The  Yiceroy’s  steamers  were  there,  dressed  very 
gay  with  flags.  Our  salute  of  10  guns  was  returned 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  RETURNING. 


65 


as  we  ran  past  them  and  made  fast  to  the  beautiful 
island  of  Elephantine,  opposite  the  town,  it  being 
preferable  for  mooring  to  the  ordinary  place  on  the 
other  side  of  the  river.  Our  Dragoman,  El-Adli,  im- 
mediately took  us  over  to  visit  the  bazaars  and  the 
sights  of  this  border  town,  lying  between  Egypt  and 
Nubia.  Here  were  to  be  seen  the  barbarian  Arabs, 
with  their  fine  aquiline  features  and  hair  in  braids,  but 
considered  no  better  than  robbers  on  the  desert; 
Nubians,  the  females  mostly  with  a ring  through  one 
of  the  nostrils,  their  persons  having  only  a scanty 
covering;  children, without  regard  to  sex,  entirely  naked; 
and  many  other  objects  different  from  those  we  had 
seen  in  Lower  Egypt.  A stroll  afterwards  on  the 
island  brought  a troop  of  men , women  and  children 
after  us  to  sell  pebbles,  and  trinkets,  or  beg  for 
backsheesh. 

Our  captain  and  crew  now  proceeded  to  strip  the 
masts  of  the  “Gazelle”  of  her  spars  and  arrange  them 
for  the  downward  voyage.  The  long  forward  one  of 
60  feet,  was  fastened  fore  and  aft  from  mast  to  mast 
just  overhead,  and  the  short  one  aft  shifted  to  the 
foremast,  to  carry  sail  sufficient  for  steering,  the  cur- 
rent and  our  ten  sweeps,  manned  by  as  many  sinewy- 
armed  “men  of  bronze,”  being  sufficient  when  drifting. 

Our  captain  and  some  of  the  crew,  whose  homes 
were  in  the  vicinity,  got  a three  days’  leave  of  ab- 
sence, to  meet  us  on  a certain  day  a few  miles  below, 
and  our  dragoman  took  the  command.  This  night 
our  illuminations,  with  those  on  the  opposite  side, 
with  a full  moonlight,  all  reflected  on  the  calm  waters 
of  the  Nile,  was  a picture  not  easily  to  be  forgotten. 

5 


CG 


LETTER  IX. 


But  another  and  far  more  beautiful  one  was  in  store 
for  us. 

Who  that  has  heard  of  the  wonders  of  this  river 
has  not  heard  also  of  the  enchantment  of  moonlight 
at  Philse?  This  lovely  isle  needs  not  the  bright  moon- 
beams to  clothe  it  in  beauty,  for  it  is  ever  lovely  under 
any  aspect.  Few  have  the  good  fortune  to  see  it  re- 
posing in  a perfectly  calm,  mirrored  basin,  with  a 
cloudless  sky,  and  under  a flood  of  golden  light  such 
as  the  lunar  orb  in  this  clime  can  only  give.  The 
time  was  propitious:  the  moon  rose  at  8;  we  deter- 
mined to  start  then  for  the  island  and  visit  the  temples, 
four  miles  distant.  It  being  a somewhat  rough  ride, 
besides  a rougher  walk,  it  was  considered  too  much 
for  the  ladies  by  our  cautious  and  careful  El  Adli. 
Crossing  the  river  as  the  glorious  orb  touched  the 
eastern  hills,  we  found  the  donkeys,  boys,  a runner 
and  a lantern-bearer  ready.  The  luminary  was  ex- 
tinguished, and  by  the  rays  of  the  “golden  moon”  we 
soon  cleared  the  town  and  were  on  a fast  trot  in  the 
desert.  Reaching  the  moorings  of  Philse,  where  numer- 
ous craft  and  a small  steamer  were  lying,  we  could 
hear  the  roar  of  the  cataract,  or  rapids,  four  miles 
distant , in  the  stillness  of  the  night.  These  were 
below  us,  being  in  the  bend  of  the  river  across  which 
we  had  ridden.  Here  the  reis  of  the  cataract,  by 
order  from  the  governor  of  Asouan  sent  forward  from  a 
mile  distant,  a boat  with  four  men  to  take  us  over 
to  the  island  and  back.  Dismounting,  we  walked  by 
a rough  and  tortuous  path,  over  and  among  smooth 
black  stones,  while  curious  piles  of  huge  rocks  of  the 
same  color  reared  their  heads  around  us  in  overhang- 
ing fragments.  Emerging  from  these,  the  opening 


THE  ISLAND  OF  PHILJE. 


67 


disclosed  a calm,  placid  sheet  of  water  with  no  ap- 
parent outlet.  A few  steps  further,  on  approaching 
its  high  marginal  bank,  the  island  of  Philse  with  its 
ruined  temples  and  the  one  yet  nearly  perfect,  with 
all  its  columns  standing,  came  into  view.  The  latter, 
near  the  river,  has  a battlement  wall  in  front,  rising 
about  eighty  feet  from  the  brink,  with  a flight  of 
steps  partly  embedded  in  sand.  After  crossing  we 
landed,  clambered  up  the  steep  bank,  and  crossed  the 
ruins  of  the  old  brick  Coptic  town  of  the  7th  century, 
which  disfigures  the  place.  Entering  and  passing 
through  the  extensive  temple  by  candlelight,  we  emerged, 
with  full  moonlight,  into  its  open  entrances,  having 
long  colonnades  in  front,  the  corridors  supported  by 
36  columns  on  each  side.  We  then  proceeded  to  the 
open  temple  on  the  margin  of  the  river.  A fine  view 
of  the  whole  scene,  the  island  and  its  lesser  neighbors, 
the ^ surrounding  hills  and  lake-like  water,  was  best 
seen  from  a rocky  eminence  at  the  southern  point  of 
the  island.  The  effects  of  pistol  shots  were  very  audible, 
in  three  distinct  echoes,  from  this  spot. 

After  spending  an  hour,  our  boatmen  rowed  us  a 
mile  down  to  where  we  left  our  donkeys;  our  songs 
alone  broke  the  stillness  of  a scene  enjoyed  only  by  a 
few  in  these  modern  times.  Here,  in  the  days  of  the 
Ptolomies,  200  years  before  Christ,  the  temple  of 
Isis  witnessed  the  strange  rites  of  thousands,  and 
centuries  saw  these  temples  thronged  with  the  worship- 
pers of  its  strange  votaries.  In  them,  in  the  year 
451  A.  d.  , the  Romans  signed  articles  of  peace  with 
the  tribes  of  Blemmyes  and  Ethiopian  Bedouins,  who 
were  the  last  worshippers  of  Isis  in  Philse.  This 
beautiful  island,  at  the  head  of  the  cataract,  and  on 

5* 


68 


LETTER  IX. 


the  borders  of  Nubia,  is  claimed  to  be  the  burial- 
place  of  Osiris.  On  nearly  all  sides  it  is  hemmed  in 
by  high  black  rocks  heaped  up  in  the  most  grotesque 
forms.  The  open  space  to  the  eastward  leads  over  a 
belt  of  desert  bordered  on  the  river  by  a strip  of 
vegetation  and  wide-spread  acacia  trees  and  tall 
palms.  Our  ride  back  to  Asouan  was  accomplished 
in  an  hour,  and  from  Messrs.  Moorhead  and  Leach, 
of  Philadelphia,  just  arrived  there  in  the  “Bund,”  we 
learned  the  melancholy  intelligence  of  the  death  of 
Doctor  Brownell  on  board  the  “Nubia”  that  morning, 
and  that  the  boat  had  put  back  to  Edfou  for  his 
interment  in  a Coptic  tomb.  Though  not  unexpected, 
from  his  condition  (the  last  stage  of  consumption),  it 
was  sad  to  realize  that  one  we  had  conversed  with 
only  three  days  before  was  no  more,  and  that  his 
remains  were  to  be  laid  so  far  from  home. 

The  sky  was  cloudless  on  the  day  following,  not  a 
zephyr  stirred  the  waters  of  the  Nile,  and  our  flags 
at  half-mast  appeared  sad  and  drooping.  We  took  a 
stroll  on  the  island  to  view  the  ruins  of  a temple 
built  by  Amunph  III.,  dedicated  to  the  god  Kneph , 
and  a gateway  of  the  time  of  Alexander  the  Great. 
Here  was  to  be  seen  part  of  a statue  and  altar  of 
red  granite  dedicated  to  Amun.  The  view  to  the 
south  is  charming.  High  sandstone  hills,  with  the 
fine  yellow  sand  blown  in  drifts  like  snow;  their  sum- 
mits crowned  by  old  ruins;  the  immediate  shores  piled 
up  with  huge  black  smooth  and  hollowed  boulders, 
looking  like  skeleton  heads  of  elephants  or  mastodons, 
and  a variety  of  grotesque  forms.  The  island  is  nearly 
a mile  in  length  and  a quarter  broad,  having  charming 
groves  of  palms  and  acacias.  The  Nubians  have  a 


A ROW  ROUND  THE  ISLAND. 


69 


village  here,  and  cultivate  the  land.  We  saw  some 
women  with  only  a short  skirt  of  cloth  around  the 
waist,  grinding  doura  between  two  flat  stones  which 
they  were  rubbing  together.  A fringe  veil  to  hide 
the  face  was  formed  of  their  hair,  braided  in  fine 
twists  and  stained  brown  with  henna.  While  they 
were  entirely  naked  above  the  waist,  their  modesty 
impelled  them  to  conceal  their  faces.  The  weather 
and  water  like  a mirror  was  so  inviting,  that,  as  the 
sun  declined  near  the  western  hills,  we  took  our  small 
boat  for  a row  around  the  entire  island.  I cannot 
devote  the  space  to  describe  the  beauties  of  that  two 
hours’  excursion.  The  islands,  rocks,  and  every  object 
in  sight,  even  the  distant  sand-hills,  were  so  perfectly 
reflected  in  the  water,  that  the  dividing  line  of  sub- 
stance and  shadow  was  hard  to  distinguish.  There  are 
seventeen  rocky  islets  between  the  island  and  western 
shore. 

In  the  evening  our  friends  of  the  “Bund”  visited  us 
and  spent  a merry  evening.  As  they  were  bound  up 
the  first  cataract  in  their  small  but  pretty  Dahabeeh, 
we  accepted  an  invitation  to  accompany  them.  The  ex- 
citement of  witnessing  the  singular  method  of  the 
amphibious  men  of  the  cataract  in  getting  a boat  up 
the  rapids  was  a novelty  I wished  to  see,  and  a 
description  of  it,  with  another  visit  to  Philse,  will 
serve  as  interesting  items  for  another  letter. 


LETTER  X. 


ANOTHER  VISIT  TO  PHIL^E — ENCOUNTER  WITH  A NUBIAN 

EGYPTIAN  JUSTICE—  THE  MEN  OF  THE  CATARACT 

RETURN  TO  THE  “GAZELLE” ASCENT  OF  THE  CA- 
TARACT IN  THE  “BUND” COMMENCEMENT  OF  OUR 

RETURN  VOYAGE  TO  CAIRO QUARRIES  OF  SILSILIS 

TEMPLE  OF  EDFOU A PLEASANT  MEETING  OF 

FRIENDS. 


While  awaiting  at  Asouan  a strong  favorable  wind 
for  the  “Bund”  to  ascend  the  cataract,  another  visit  to 
Philse  was  decided  on,  to  occupy  the  entire  day,  and 
arrangements  made  as  before  for  donkeys,  &c.  We 
left  at  10  A.  m.  with  the  ladies,  and  in  crossing  the 
intervening  desert  met  quantities  of  camels  bearing 
soldiers  with  their  wives  and  families  returning  from 
Nubia. 

Arriving  opposite  the  charming  island,  a small  Daha- 
beeh  was  awaiting  to  convey  us  over.  A crowd  of 
men,  women  and  children,  all  Nubians,  were  assembled 
to  sell  us  silver  and  other  trinkets,  or  to  get  back- 
sheesh. We  were  so  annoyed  and  closely  pressed  that 
the  koorbash  (a  whip  made  from  the  hide  of  a rhi- 
noceros) was  needed  to  keep  them  at  bay,  and  had  to 
be  applied  to  prevent  a couple  of  persistent  men  from 
taking  passage  with  us. 


ENCOUNTER  WITH  A NUBIAN. 


71 


We  landed  at  the  old  ruined  stairs,  entered  the 
rear  portals  of  the  temple  of  Isis,  and  examined  the 
interior  of  its  courts  and  rooms.  Then  ascending  to 
the  roof,  where  a fine  view  of  the  island  and  its  sin- 
gularly beautiful  surroundings  was  had,  our  lunch 
was  spread  in  the  open  porch  of  the  temple,  the  crew 
and  several  of  the  natives — some  of  whom  had  swum 
over — being  seated  among  the  fragments  of  the  ruins 
around  us,  looking  on  with  curious  eyes,  anxious  to 
get  something. 

Returning  to  the  boat  to  recross,  and  awaiting  our 
Dragoman,  a distant  noise  of  voices  attracted  my  at- 
tention. One  of  our  crew  was  seen  to  spring  on 
board,  seize  a pole  and  rush  up  the  bank.  I divined 
some  trouble,  threw  off  my  coat,  seized  the  koorbash, 
and  was  followed  by  others  to  the  scene  near  the 
landing,  where  El  Adli  and  two  nearly  naked  Nu- 
bians were  gesticulating  furiously,  one  of  the  latter 
with  a short-handled  hoe  in  a threatening  attitude. 
I sprang  in  between  them  and  learned  in  a breath 
from  our  Dragoman  that  the  barbarian  was  about  to 
strike  him.  I instantly  raised  my  koorbash,  which  he 
dodged  and  ran  towards  the  river  closely  pursued  by 
me.  He  dropped  his  hoe  as  I approached  him,  and 
sprang  into  the  river.  A shot  fired  in  the  air  by  one 
of  our  party  behind  me  frightened  him  and  he  dived. 
As  he  rose  I levelled  my  revolver  at  him,  when  he 
again  disappeared  like  a duck.  Twice  I repeated  the 
experiment  with  the  same  success,  when  I felt  satis- 
fied, and  disposed  to  laugh  at  the  fright  I gave  this 
demi-savage.  Not  so  El  Adli,  who  was  enraged  that 
such  an  outrage  should  be  perpetrated  on  him,  the 
Dragoman  and  representative,  as  he  said,  of  “Euro- 


72 


LETTER  X. 


peart  people.”  It  appears  that  the  Nubian  (the  one  with 
the  hoe)  had  abused  El  Adli  for  being  the  servant  of 
the  despised  Christians,  which  led  to  a rejoinder,  at 
which  the  Nubian  and  his  companion  threatened  him. 
The  'former  was  about  to  strike  the  Dragoman,  who 
was  perfectly  unarmed,  when  I came  to  the  rescue. 

The  sequel  is  a remarkable  comment  on  Egyptian 
justice,  which  we  had  no  part  in  the  administration 
of.  El  Adli  caused  the  two  men  to  be  arrested  and 
sent  to  Asouan  the  next  day,  on  a complaint  to  the 
Governor,  and  on  his  own  statement  of  the  facts,  be- 
fore we  knew  anything  of  it,  they  received  each,  as 
El  Adli  informed  us,  a hundred  lashes,  to  intimidate 
others  from  insulting  and  assaulting  the  “representa- 
tives” of  Europeans. 

On  returning  to  the  shore,  after  buying  rings  of 
silver,  &c.,  from  Kartoon,  and  running  the  gauntlet  of 
a crowd  of  the  most  importunate  beggars  I ever  saw, 
we  mounted  our  donkeys  and  rode  westward  an  hour 
towards  the  cataract.  We  arrived  at  the  rocky  shore 
of  the  second  gate  of  the  great  rapid,  and  had  not 
time  to  descend  a small  beach  near  a Cove,  before  a 
score  of  naked  Nubians  and  Arabs  were  seen  among 
the  black  rocks  in  the  rapids  to  spring  into  the  rushing 
waters,  and,  with  powerful  and  rapid  strokes,  reach 
the  beach  near  where  we  were  standing.  Some  of  them 
were  entirely  naked,  others  with  only  a strip  of  cloth 
around  their  loins.  They  came  rushing  up  to  us  like 
so  many  wild  Indians,  and  demanded  backsheesh  for 
their  exploit,  which  was  distributed  among  them,  when 
they  disappeared  in  the  water  to  repeat  the  exhibition, 
giving  us  time  to  take  a look  at  the  scene  and  make 
an  escape  before  the  ladies  were  subjected  to  another 


PASSING  THE  FIRST  CATARACT. 


73 


such  annoyance;  but  we  were  followed  by  a dozen 
good  runners,  who  were  got  rid  of  by  a handful  of 
coppers  thrown  in  the  sand. 

On  our  return  to  Asouan  we  rode  by  the  celebrated 
quarries  of  red  and  green  granite,  where  the  obelisks 
of  Luxor,  Karnak,  Heliopolis,  Alexandria,  and  the  co- 
lossal statue  of  the  Memnonium,  were  obtained.  An 
obelisk,  100  feet  in  length  and  8 in  diameter,  lies 
abandoned  in  its  bed  by  the  ancients,  who  found  a 
flaw  in  it.  We  reached  the  “Gazelle”  at  six,  and  ap- 
preciated the  merits  of  our  most  excellent  cook,  Ach- 
met  Shaheen,  in  a good  dinner  as  usual,  served  up 
by  Mahomed  and  Abouzed. 

The  next  morning  the  light  southerly  breeze  which 
had  kept  the  “Bund”  at  her  moorings,  suddenly  changed 
to  the  north,  and  our  two  friends  came  to  accompany 
us  on  board  of  their  Dahabeeh  to  make  the  ascent  of 
the  first  cataract.  El  Adli  engaged  donkeys  to  follow 
us  in  case  we  reached  the  “second  gate”  before  night, 
when  we  determined  to  leave  the  boat,  as  most  of 
the  interest  is  in  passing  the  “first  gate,”  we  having 
seen  Philse  already. 

The  “Bund”  left  at  11,  with  a stiff  breeze,  and,  under 
the  pressure  of  her  great  foresail,  entered  the  eastern 
passage  of  Elephantine  Island,  and  was  soon  among 
the  rocks,  guided  by  the  skilful  hands  of  the  reis  of 
the  cataract  and  his  assistants.  The  former  is  alone 
responsible  for  any  damage  to  the  boat  in  the  passage, 
and  receives  a large  fee  for  himself  and  men  for  get- 
ting boats  over.  We  reached  the  first  gate,  slowly  and 
steadily  gaining  against  the  swift  current,  in  two  and 
a half  hours.  Here  we  made  fast  to  the  rocks,  and 
in  fifteen  minutes  three  hawsers,  manned  by  thirty  of 


74 


LETTER  X. 


the  cataract  men  and  the  crew,  were  bent  on  different 
points  of  rocks.  For  10  minutes  they  tugged  away, 
aided  by  the  force  of  the  sail,  but  without  gaining  a 
foot.  We  then  began  to  move  slightly;  the  men  on 
the  rocks,  in  the  water,  and  on  deck,  shouted  and  ex- 
erted themselves  to  the  utmost,  when  a strong  puff  of 
wind  gave  us  a start.  In  about  thirty  minutes  we 
passed  the  first  rapid,  and  sailed  on  boldly  among  the 
rocks  in  a swift  current,  till  we  came  to  the  second 
rapid.  Here  the  dashing  swimmers,  with  ropes  in  their 
teeth , carried  hawsers  across  from  rock  to  rock  to 
hold  us  fast  in  case  the  wind  should  fail  us.  All  the 
strength  of  the  men  were  again  put  forth  with  loud 
cries,  and  for  10  minutes  we  just  held  our  own  way, 
and  then  slowly  began  to  move.  At  one  moment  it 
seemed  as  though  we  were  going  upon  a large  rock 
close  to  our  bows,  but  the  strong  wind  carried  us  past, 
aided  by  the  skill  of  the  reis,  and  the  first  gate  and 
second  rapid  was  passed  at  3 p.  m.,  and  the  boat  tied 
up  for  the  day. 

We  were  not  permitted  to  land  before  partaking  of 
a sumptuous  dinner  by  our  liberal  entertainers,  which 
kept  us  on  board  till  five  o’clock,  when  we  mounted 
our  donkeys  in  waiting,  and  arrived  at  twilight  at  the 
landing  of  Asouan,  where  we  found  the  Cairo  and 
Morning  Star  had  arrived.  We  had  a call  in  the 
evening  from  the  two  English  gentlemen  of  the  latter. 

The  next  day,  January  26th,  was  the  appointed  one 
for  starting  on  the  downward  passage.  The  weather 
was  perfection,  hardly  a breeze  to  display  our  starry 
flags,  while  a salute  of  thirteen  guns  was  fired  as  we 
all  reluctantly  turned  our  bow  down  stream.  A slight 
breeze  sprang  up,  when  we  met  some  friends  making 


RETURN  VOYAGE  SILSILIS. 


75 


their  wedding  tour  up  the  Nile  in  a small  pretty,  and 
swift  Dahabeeh  belonging  to  Abdallah  Pasha.  We 
made  slow  progress  in  drifting  as  the  wind  was  against 
us.  The  Egyptian  steamer  was  met,  whose  passengers 
displayed  an  American  flag  forward  as  we  passed  them. 
We  stopped  at  a village  to  take  our  reis  and  some 
of  the  crew  who  had  left  at  Asouan  on  a four  days’ 
furlough,  and  an  English  Dahabeeh  was  spoken,  by 
whom  we  learned  news  of  friends  behind  us,  and  thus 
ended  the  events  of  the  day. 

The  following  one  we  landed  at  Silsilis.  Here,  it  is 
said,  an  Egyptian  king  put  a chain  across,  fastened 
to  two  upright  rocks  on  either  side  of  the  river,  where 
the  sand-stone  hills  approach  to  within  1100  feet  of 
each  other.  We  visited  several  grottoes,  some  built 
by  Horus,  one  of  the  last  Pharaohs.  The  blocks  cut 
from  these  immense  and  interesting  quarries  were  sent 
to  Thebes  and  other  cities  by  rafts  or  boats.  The  gra- 
nite from  Asouan  was  conveyed  by  land  for  the  obelisks 
and  colossi,  the  largest  of  which  employed  2000  men 
three  years  in  its  removal  during  the  reign  of  Amasis. 
We  exchanged  salutes  with  a French  Dahabeeh,  and 
nothing  more  of  interest  occurred  during  the  day. 

The  28th  was  calm  and  clear  when  we  stopped  to 
visit  the  temple  of  Edfou.  We  had  a very  interest- 
ing ride  of  a mile  to  reach  the  town,  which  has  a 
large  population  of  industrious  Copts,  Arabs,  and  some 
Nubians.  They  appeared  very  civil,  and  most  of  the 
women  had  their  faces  uncovered.  We  saw  some  Nu- 
bian girls  in  the  streets  with  nearly  their  whole  bodies 
uncovered,  having  only  a strip  of  leather  with  a deep 
fringe  around  their  loins.  As  our  guide  books  have 
little  to  say  about  this  temple,  describing  it  as  being 


76 


LETTER  X. 


mostly  buried  under  the  ruins  of  the  old  Coptic  town, 
we  were  greatly  surprised  and  pleased  to  find  it  the 
most  extensive,  grand  and  interesting  we  had  yet  seen. 
(Murray’s  new  edition  for  1867  alludes  to  its  being 
recently  restored  to  view,  but  gives  no  description, 
and  the  following,  with  measurements,  are  entirely  my 
own.)  It  was  excavated  to  its  foundations  by  Said 
Pasha,  late  viceroy,  who  caused  the  debris  of  the  town 
to  be  thoroughly  cleaned  out,  and  exposed  to  view 
the  best  preserved  temple  in  Egypt.  Unlike  others, 
it  has  an  especial  guard,  and  neither  natives  nor  visi- 
tors are  allowed  to  enter  without  beeing  attended  by 
the  officer  stationed  there.  It  is  surrounded  by  a wall 
about  60  feet  in  height  on  three  sides,  forming  an 
immense  oblong  square,  having  at  the  only  entrance 
a huge  pyramidal  Propylon,  200  feet  in  length,  30  wide, 
and  100  feet  high.  Its  towers  have  in  each  250  steps 
of  5 inches  rise,  leading  to  spacious  apartments  in 
different  elevations,  and  to  the  roof,  where  one  of  the 
finest  views  on  the  Nile  may  be  had,  and  a bird’s- 
eye  view  of  the  town  with  its  busy  people  directly 
below  the  walls.  The  temple  has  a Pronaos , Adytum, 
and  SeJcos.  The  great  court  has  three  sides,  with 
34  columns  leading  to  the  Pronaos,  which  has  18  im- 
mense pillars,  9 feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
about  50  in  height,  and  is  50  by  140,  including  walls, 
which  are  9 feet  thick  at  base  and  6 feet  at  the  top. 
The  Adytum,  with  12  columns,  is  a little  inferior  in 
size  to  the  Pronaos,  and  has  four  rooms  on  each  side, 
from  one  of  which  a flight  of  100  steps  leads  to  its 
roof  and  that  of  the  Naos.  Two  other  small  courts, 
with  two  rooms  on  each  side,  separate  this  from  the 
Naos,  or  inner  part  of  the  temple,  which  has  no  outlet 


THE  TEMPLE  OF  EDFOTT. 


77 


but  its  huge  pyramidal-shaped  entrance,  correspond- 
ing in  style  with  the  others  all  in  a direct  line  with 
the  Propylon  entrance.  There  are  no  columns  in  this 
sacred  part  of  the  temple,  but  in  the  centre  stands 
a large,  upright,  granite  sarcophagus,  in  the  form  of 
a chapel,  with  a flattened  pyramid  or  eliptical  arch. 
It  has  a passage-way  on  its  three  sides,  which  is  se- 
parated from  the  outer  walls  by  nine  rooms.  We  as- 
cended to  the  roof,  which  is  composed  of  blocks  of 
stone  22  feet  by  6,  and  4 thick,  and  walked  around 
on  the  summit  of  its  huge  walls,  20  feet  above  the 
roof  and  60  from  the  paved  passage  below  which  se- 
parates the  temple  from  the  outside  surrounding  walls 
of  same  height.  The  cap-stones  are  6 feet  by  6,  and 
4 thick,  dovetailed  and  fastened  with  huge  clamps.  I 
could  not  ascertain  the  entire  length  of  this  enormous 
edifice.  It  was  founded  by  Ptolemy  Philometer,  and 
completed  by  Energetes  the  Second  and  his  successors. 
The  names  of  Alexander  and  Cleopatra  are  frequently 
inscribed  on  its  walls,  the  interior  and  exterior  of  which, 
together  with  the  columns  and  ceilings,  are  completely 
covered  with  figures  and  hieroglyphics  in  bas-relief, 
in  a most  remarkable  state  of  preservation.  It  is  a 
wonderful  fact,  that  the  immense  walls  of  this  edifice 
are  without  a crack,  and  are  as  level  in  their  joints 
of  ashlers,  and  as  plumb  as  when  finished,  over  2000 
years  ago.  No  traveller  should  omit  devoting  a half- 
day at  least  to  this  gigantic  and  well-preserved  monu- 
ment of  ancient  masonry  and  art. 

Having  seen  from  the  roof  of  the  Temple  a Daha- 
beeh  coming  up  the  river  slowly,  we  hurried  back  to 
our  boat,  having  spent  less  than  three  hours  in  in- 
specting the  beautiful  sculptures  of  figures  on  these 


78 


LETTEK  X. 


walls,  as  we  expected  to  meet  our  friends,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  H.,  of  New  York,  in  the  “Nightingale.”  It  proved 
to  be  them , and  joyous  salutes  were  exchanged  as 
they  neared  and  recognized  us.  An  hour  was  spent  in 
mutual  visits,  when  they  pursued  their  upward  voyage 
with  a fair  wind.  A short  time  after,  we  were  again 
drifting  with  the  current. 


LETTER  XL 


EL  KAB SHOOTING  EXCUESION ERMENT THE  VICE- 
ROY’S SUGAR-WORKS CHASE  AFTER  A PELICAN — 

AT  THEBES  AGAIN KARNAK — ITS  TEMPLES VISIT 

TO  THE  TOMBS  OF  THE  KINGS FAREWELL  TO  THEBES. 


The  day  following  that  spent  at  Edfou,  where  the 
remains  of  our  esteemed  countryman,  Dr.  Brownell, 
were  recently  entombed,  was  noticeable  as  being  par- 
tially cloudy,  the  first  time  for  some  weeks.  At  El 
Kab , where  we  stopped  to  see  the  old  tombs  a mile 
distant,  the  ride  on  donkeys  was  a splendid  one,  and 
as  game  was  observed  to  be  plenty,  on  our  return  we 
took  our  fowling-pieces  and  had  three  hours’  good 
shooting  along  the  shore  and  in  the  droura  fields. 
Among  the  birds  killed  were  several  beautiful  speci- 
mens of  hawks,  white  ibis,  &c.  The  whole  plain  for 
miles  was  covered  with  young  wheat,  and  the  droura 
just  being  harvested  had  stalks  ten  feet  in  height, 
which  were  being  dried  in  the  sun,  and  the  ears  in 
heaps,  separate,  in  the  same  manner.  After  leaving  in 
our  boat  for  Erment,  we  met  a French  and  American 
Dahabeeh,  and  exchanged  salutes  as  usual. 


80 


LETTER  XI. 


Next  day  the  strong  head  wind  impeded  our  pro- 
gress. This  was  satisfactory  to  us  though  not  so  to 
our  Dragoman  who  took  us  by  the  trip,  but  he  bore 
all  such  detentions  like  a philosopher.  Erment  was  not 
reached,  but  the  time  passed  rapidly  in  the  various 
employments  of  writing,  reading,  games,  &c.  In  one 
of  our  sallies  from  our  Dahabeeh  in  the  small  boat 
after  game,  on  the  sand-bars  I shot  a large  and  beauti- 
ful white  crane,  with  black  wings  and  splendid  crest. 
It  is  called  a “sultan,”  and  measured  4 feet  3 inches 
from  its  beak  to  the  end  of  its  short  tail,  and  5 feet 
7 inches  from  tip  to  tip  of  wings  extended. 

Erment  was  reached  the  following  day,  and  on  land- 
ing a sorry  lot  of  donkeys  were  obtained  to  ride  to 
the  temple,  4 miles  distant.  The  governor  and  super- 
intendent of  the  viceroy’s  sugar-works,  whom  we  had 
met  with  the  princes  at  our  interview  at  Thebes, 
kindly  sent  us  a horse  and  two  excellent  donkeys, 
one  of  them  a large  white  one  of  the  Mecca  breed, 
being  worth  $500.  It  was  market  day,  and  during 
our  very  pleasant  ride  on  an  avenue  of  three  miles  of 
acacia  trees,  we  met  a continuous  throng  of  country 
people  of  all  kinds  and  conditions,  curious  to  behold. 
On  one  side  of  us  an  immense  field  of  sugar-cane,  ex- 
tending as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  was  just  being 
cut  and  carried  to  the  mill.  The  governor  informed 
me  he  employed  in  these  works  2600  men  and  boys 
and  1250  camels.  A continual  file  of  the  latter  reached 
three  miles  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  mill.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  avenue  were  fields  of  wheat  “in 
the  milk,”'  and  barley  a few  inches  above  ground.  The 
ruins  of  the  temple  proved  to  be  not  worth  visiting, 


THE  RUINS  OF  KARNAK. 


81 


there  being  only  three  or  four  columns  standing,  the 
rest  having  been  used  for  building  purposes. 

Our  ride,  however,  proved  a very  pleasant  one,  and 
after  calling  on  the  governor,  inviting  him  on  board 
and  entertaining  him  awhile,  we  left  for  Thebes,  only 
6 miles  distant.  We  met  a large  new  Dahabeeh  called 
the  “Memphis,”  under  English  colors,  and  near  Thebes 
saw  quantities  of  pelicans  on  a sand-bar.  I went  in 
pursuit  with  the  Doctor  in  the  small  boat,  manned  by 
two  of  our  sailors,  and  we  succeeded  in  wounding  one 
with  our  double-barrels,  but  after  a chase  it  escaped 
us,  as  we  had  left  our  ammunition  behind  and  the 
water  was  too  shallow  for  us.  Besides,  as  our  boat- 
men in  the  water  neared  the  huge  bird,  it  managed 
to  elude  them. 

The  “Gazelle”  arrived  at  Thebes  before  us,  and  we 
had  a long  pull  with  nothing  to  show  for  it.  On  going 
to  the  Consul’s,  the  venerable  Mustapha  handed  us  a 
large  number  of  papers  and  letters  from  home  that 
had  been  retained  for  our  return. 

Karnak , the  incomparable,  which  had  been  held  in 
reserve,  on  our  first  visit  here,  the  ruins  of  which  had 
been  so  extolled,  was  now  the  first  object  to  be 
seen,  and  the  morning  of  the  1st  of  February  saw  us 
mounted  for  the  greatest  of  all  the  ruins  of  Egypt. 
In  a half-hour  we  passed  the  distance  once  spanned 
with  a broad  avenue  of  two  miles  in  length,  bordered 
with  1200  gigantic  sphinxes,  leading  from  the  temple 
of  Thebes  to  the  great  gateway  of  that  of  Karnak 
through  which  we  entered. 

Having  first  ridden  a circuit  of  two  miles  around 
the  several  temples  and  gateways,  we  entered  the  mam- 
moth edifice  by  what  was  once  another  avenue  of 

6 


82 


LETTER  XI. 


sphinxes,  at  its  front,  looking  toward  the  river.  No 
pen  can  give  an  adequate  idea  of  the  grandeur  of  these 
magnificent  remains  of  ancient  Thebes,  neither  will  my 
limits  permit  me  to  give  more  than  some  measure- 
ments and  a brief  description.  Denon  concludes  a 
partial  description  which  he  attempted,  by  declaring 
that  “one  is  fatigued  with  writing  and  reading,  and 
stunned  with  the  thought  of  such  conception.  It  is 
hardly  possible  to  believe,  after  having  seen  it,  in  the 
reality  of  the  existence  of  so  many  buildings  collected 
at  a single  point,  in  their  dimensions,  in  the  resolute 
perseverance,  which  their  construction  required,  and 
the  incalculable  expense  of  so  much  magnificence.  On 
examination  of  these  ruins  the  imagination  is  wearied 
with  the  idea  of  describing  them.”  Prime  says,  “It  is 
a greater  wonder  than  the  Pyramids.” 

Of  the  hundred  columns  of  the  portico  alone,  the 
smallest  are  7 Y2  feet  diameter,  and  the  largest 
12  feet.  The  buildings  comprising  the  chief  temple  are 
1200  feet  long  by  420  wide,  and  the  space  conse- 
crated to  its  use  is  about  a mile  in  diameter.  This 
contains  the  ruins  of  numerous  subordinate  temples, 
gigantic  gate  ways  with  huge  pylons,  obelisks  and 
colossal  figures,  all  covered  like  every  space  of  wall  and 
column  of  the  great  temple,  with  elaborate  scenes  and 
hieroglyphics , either  in  exquisite  bas-relief  or  deeply 
and  beautifully  cut  in  the  stone.  Entering  the  huge 
gateway  we  came  to  a court  275  by  330  feet  with 
a corridor  and  columns  on  each  side.  Through  the 
centre  of  the  court  were  the  remains  of  two  rows 
of  six  immense  columns  each , and  of  two  colossal 
statues.  Through  another  gateway  the  great  hall  of 
columns  is  entered  330  by  170  feet,  having  through  the 


PALACES  AND  SPHINXES. 


83 


centre  two  rows  of  columns  each  1 2 feet  at  the  base, 
and  90  high;  being  the  largest  in  the  world.  122  other 
colums  supported  the  roof  of  the  sides  of  this  vast  hall, 
102  of  which  are  now  standing,  each  being  42  feet 
high  by  9 feet  diameter  at  the  base.  Passing  through 
this  between  two  lofty  pyramidal  towers  into  another 
court,  having  the  remains  of  two  obelisks,  two  other 
towers  are  passed,  and  another  court  entered,  in  which 
stands  a red  granite  obelisk,  92  feet  high  and  8 at 
the  base,  its  companion  lying  in  a broken  mass  by 
its  side.  Tower  after  tower,  court  after  court  is  passed, 
until  finally  the  holy  place,  or  Temple  of  Amun,  the 
blue  god,  or  Jupiter  of  the  Egyptians,  is  reached. 

From  this,  still  extending  east  from  the  river,  is 
the  palace  of  Thotmes  the  Third,  with  its  32  square 
and  20  round  columns,  corresponding  in  size  to  the 
temple.  Having  feasted  our  eyes  on  all  these  wonders 
for  hours,  we  took  our  lunch  in  the  hall  of  columns, 
and  then  rode  to  the  ruins  of  the  temple  of  the  cat- 
headed gods  or  sphinxes,  of  fine  black  granite.  There 
must  have  been  nearly  a hundred  of  these  originally, 
many  of  which  are  left,  some  nearly  entire  on  their 
pedestals,  others  in  broken  fragments  strewed  around. 
An  avenue  of  colossal  ram  sphinxes  1000  feet  in  length, 
once  led  from  this  to  one  of  the  principal  southern 
gates,  the  huge  pylons  of  which  are  now  standing,  and 
portions  of  the  spinxes  yet  remain. 

Passing  back  by  the  salt  lakes  within  the  enclosures 
of  the  temples , we  examined  the  interesting  scenes 
wrought  in  the  exterior  walls  of  the  great  edifice.  On 
the  southern  wall  of  the  hall  of  columns,  beside  the 
entrance,  is  the  colossal  bas-relief  of  Shishak,  men- 
tioned in  the  bible,  1st  Kings,  xiv.  25,  and  2nd  Chro- 

6* 


84 


LETTER  XI. 


nicies,  xii.,  identified  by  his  cartouche.  This  king  of 
Judah  is  represented  as  receiving  the  captured  coun- 
tries in  his  expedition  to  Jerusalem,  among  them  the 
kingdom  of  Solomon.  This  identification  was  made 
the  present  century,  by  Champollion,  on  his  way  to 
Upper  Egypt,  who  read  in  an  oval  by  the  characters 
on  it  the  name  of  MeleJc  Aiudah , or  the  king  of  Judah. 

We  next  rode  out  of  the  front  entrance  to  the  gate- 
way on  the  north  side,  now  standing,  the  paint  on 
the  figures  of  which,  in  ochre,  blue,  and  a beautiful 
red,  is  still  fresh.  A ride  on  the  high  mounds  cover- 
ing the  walls  around  the  temples,  afforded  an  extra- 
ordinary picture  of  mingled  beauty  of  nature  and  art. 
The  mountains  of  yellow  limestone  against  a bright 
blue  sky,  the  river  like  a mirror  with  a broad  carpet 
of  bright  green,  clumps  of  palm  and  other  trees,  and 
the  remains  of  ancient  Thebes,  “the  city  of  a hundred 
gates,”  as  described  by  Homer,  were  spread  out  before 
us.  Returning  to  our  boat,  the  governor  and  Mus- 
tapha  Aga  dined  with  us  by  appointment.  Mohamed 
El  Adli  and  our  cook  and  servants  did  wonders  in 
providing  and  serving  up  a dinner  in  princely  style. 

The  following  day  was  devoted  to  visiting  the  great 
tombs  of  the  kings,  far  distant  in  the  mountains  op- 
posite Thebes,  requiring  a good  day’s  work  to  examine. 
The  most  celebrated  are  those  of  Belzoni,  Bruce,  and 
Nos.  6 and  9.  The  first  is  that  of  King  Sethos,  father 
of  Sesostris,  and  extends  on  an  inclined  plane,  with 
200  steps,  320  feet  in  length  and  90  perpendicular 
depth  into  the  sides  of  the  mountain  of  limestone  rock, 
with  several  apartments,  pillared  and  arched,  entirely 
covered  with  sculptured  figures  in  bas-relief  and  col- 
ored. The  Bruce  tomb  extends  405  feet  into  the  moun- 


DEPARTURE  FROM  KARNAK. 


85 


tain,  through  solid  rock,  and  was  the  resting  place  of 
King  Rameses  the  Third.  The  sarcophagus  of  granite 
is  in  Paris,  minus  the  cover,  which  was  carried  to 
England.  No.  9,  that  of  Rameses  the  Fifth,  is  one  of 
the  finest  tombs,  and  is  342  feet  long  and  24  wide, 
with  a vaulted  hall,  at  its  termination,  supported  by- 
pillars.  This  is  covered  with  curious  figures  represent- 
ing the  supposed  condition  of  departed  souls.  No.  6, 
of  Rameses  the  Seventh,  is  243  feet  in  length,  and 
contains  some  novel  figures.  We  returned  to  our  boat 
early  in  the  afternoon,  having  rode  fifteen  miles  and 
explored  1300  feet  of  a continual  picture-gallery, 
underground,  by  the  light  of  candles  (torches  not  being 
now  allowed)  carried  in  our  hands. 

The  day  following  we  took  another  ride  to  Karnak, 
to  take  a final  view,  and  the  next,  after  paying  a last 
visit  to  the  Memnonium  and  the  two  Colossi  across 
the  river,  we  cast  off  our  fasts  and  bid  adieu  to  Thebes 
as  the  evening  guns  were  celebrating  the  end  of  the 
long  Mohammedan  fast  of  thirty  days. 


LETTER  XII. 


ARRIVAL  AT  KENNEH JAR-MAKING  — VISITS  TO  AND 

FROM  THE  GOVERNOR  — A DAY’S  SHOOTING — RUINS 

OF  ABYDUS NIKILEH — PIGEON  - SHOOTING SIOOT 

VIEW  FROM  STABL  ANTAR MANFALOOT A GALE 

OFF  ABOOFAYDA-RODA — ITS  GREAT  SUGAR-WORKS 
— THE  TOMBS  OF  BENI-HASSAN ARRIVAL  AT  MINIEH. 


After  leaving  Thebes  the  wind  was  so  strong  ahead 
the  next  two  days,  that  we  had  to  lie  by  the  shore 
several  times,  which  enabled  us  to  have  some  good 
shooting.  On  arriving  at  Kenneh,  the  second  day  at 
noon,  we  all  took  donkeys  and  rode  to  town,  a mile 
and  a half  distant.  It  being  the  last  of  the  three 
days  of  feasting  and  rejoicing  succeeding  the  fast  of 
Ramadan,  the  place  was  more  than  ordinarily  inter- 
esting. Wishing  to  see  the  process  of  making  the 
celebrated  water-jars  that  have  been  made  here  dur- 
ing 3000  years,  we  went  to  one  of  the  principal  manu- 
factories, where  for  backsheesh,  the  workmen  showed 
us  the  hand-moulding  of  the  clay  jars,  vases,  &c.,  on 
a turn -wheel,  and  done  as  skilfully  and  rapidly  as 
glass-blowing.  There  are  14,000  inhabitants  in  this 


VISITS  TO  AND  FROM  THE  GOVERNOR. 


87 


town,  and  the  governor  here  has  a jurisdiction  over 
a population  of  450,000,  extending  into  Nubia.  We 
called  on  him,  when  he  had  coffee  and  cigars  served 
in  Turkish  fashion,  and  presented  flowers  to  the  ladies. 
He  and  the  resident  physician,  who  was  present,  spoke 
good  French,  and  as  we  found  them  agreeable,  they 
were  invited  to  visit  us  in  the  evening  on  board.  They 
accepted,  and  came  with  servants  and  torches,  the 
governor  bringing  a handsome  backgammon  board  of 
Turkish  manufacture  to  play  with  the  ladies.  They 
seemed  to  enjoy  much  their  three  hours’  entertain- 
ment. 

We  remained  the  next  day  for  shooting,  as  game 
was  abundant,  while  the  ladies  took  another  ride  to 
town  with  El  Adli.  We  had  about  four  hours’  sport 
very  satisfactory,  without  having  to  go  more  than  a 
half-mile  from  our  boat.  Just  as  we  were  ready  to 
leave,  some  American  friends  arrived  in  a Dahabeeh 
from  the  Cataract.  The  two  succeeding  days  strong 
head  winds  prevailed,  which  obliged  us  to  tie  up  twice, 
and  with  the  exception  of  meeting  a Dahabeeh  and 
steamer,  the  quiet  of  our  happy  home  was  disturbed 
by  no  incident,  giving  us  the  desired  time  for  read- 
ing, writing,  &c. 

The  next  morning  February  10th,  found  us  lying 
at  Bellianeh,  8 miles  from  Abydus,  the  ruins  of  which 
we  had  notified  our  Dragoman  we  desired  to  see.  While 
we  were  getting  ready  for  the  ride,  some  of  the  na- 
tives on  the  bank  of  the  river  improvised  a dance  in 
the  style  of  the  Grhawazees . Our  ride  was  uncom- 
monly pleasant,  with  a breeze  to  cool  the  heat  of  a 
hot  sun.  Fields  of  wheat,  barley,  beans,  linseed  and 
clover,  the  three  last  in  full  blossom,  covered  the  entire 


88 


LETTER  XII. 


plain  while  a large  number  of  buffaloes,  oxen,  camels, 
black  sheep  and  goats  were  feeding  upon  the  exten- 
sive fields  of  clover,  watched  by  their  owners,  who, 
with  their  families,  were  distributed  over  the  land- 
scape in  high  cane-built  shelters,  without  roofs,  open- 
ing to  the  south. 

Arriving  at  the  temple  we  found  it  sunken  nearly 
to  its  roof  in  dirt  and  rubbish,  but  its  interior  had 
been  excavated,  into  which  we  rode  by  a steep  decli- 
vity. Four  rows  of  huge  columns,  of  curious  but  un- 
graceful pattern,  supported  a peculiarly  built  roof.  On 
each  side  were  seven  arched  apartments,  the  whole 
covered  with  finely  executed  and  colored  hieroglyphics. 
It  was  begun  by  Osiris  the  first,  and  finished  by  Ra- 
meses  the  Great.  A quarter  of  a mile  to  the  north 
of  this  are  the  remains  of  the  lower  jDortion  of  one 
of  the  most  beautiful  structures  of  ancient  Egypt,  now 
with  its  foundations  buried  up  in  sand  and  rubbish. 
This  was  the  celebrated  temple  of  Osiris  who,  it  is 
said,  was  buried  here.  It  was  finished  by  Raineses 
the  Great,  who  enriched  it  by  a magnificent  sanctuary, 
the  walls  of  which  were  faced  with  oriental  alabaster. 
Two  colossal  figures,  two  obelisks  of  red  granite,  two 
of  black  granite,  and  many  statues  of  same  material 
lie  broken  up  and  strewn  around. 

On  returning  to  our  boat  and  starting  for  Sioot  we 
got  on  a sand-bar  so  fast,  that  it  required  the  bal- 
last to  be  shifted  and  a hard  tug  at  the  warps  of 
five  hours  to  get  off,  during  which  the  sailors  were 
in  the  water  a part  of  the  time.  The  following  day 
we  passed  an  English  boat,  the  Ibis  bound  up,  and 
some  sporting  was  had  ashore  while  our  men  stopped 
to  kill  a sheep.  The  passenger  steamer  was  met,  with 


THE  ASCENT  OF  STABL  ANTAR. 


89 


a large  party  of  Americans,  who  saluted  us  by  dis- 
playing the  stars  and  stripes  forward,  they  being  under 
Egyptian  colors.  A high  wind  off  Shekh  Harida  caused 
a rocking  of  our  boat  for  the  first  time  to  such  a 
degree  that  obliged  us  to  tie  up  awhile. 

The  morning  of  the  13th  brought  us  to  Nikileh,  a 
Copt  village  not  mentioned  in  the  guide  books.  It  is 
a pretty  place,  and  on  going  up  the  river  we  had 
observed  game  to  be  plenty,  especially  pigeons,  which 
determined  us  to  stop  on  our  return.  On  the  fields 
within  a couple  of  miles  of  the  town  we  shot  six 
dozen,  among  scattered  birds,  as  it  is  rare  to  get  at 
a large  flock.  We  arrived  early  the  next  morning 
at  Sioot,  where  we  took  a walk  in  the  grounds  and 
garden  of  a wealthy  merchant  before  leaving  for  the 
city,  some  distance  from  the  river.  It  is  the  largest 
and  most  picturesque  town  of  any  in  Upper  Egypt. 
Its  thirteen  minarets,  backed  by  the  lofty  range  of 
Lybian  hills,  look  very  pretty  on  approaching  it  by 
a causeway  lined  with  trees  and  overlooking  fine  gar- 
dens. This  our  second  visit  was  mainly  to  ascend 
Stabl  Antar,  visit  the  tombs,  and  get  the  magnificent 
view  of  the  Lybian  hills.  Our  donkeys  carried  us  part 
way  up,  the  rest  of  which,  to  the  tombs , had  to  be 
accomplished  on  foot.  The  subterranean  receptacles 
for  the  dead  were  of  little  interest  to  us,  after  visit- 
ing those  of  the  kings  at  Thebes,  but  on  ascending 
farther  to  the  summit  we  were  richly  rewarded  by 
the  finest  view  we  had  yet  seen  in  Egypt.  The  ranges 
of  mountains  on  both  sides  of  the  Nile,  the  Lybian 
desert  extending  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  in  the 
clear  atmosphere  of  Egypt,  bordered  by  the  bright 
and  varied  green  shades  of  the  rich  valley,  a fine 


90 


LETTER  XII. 


birds’s-eye  view  of  the  city,  and  almost  directly  below 
us  that  of  the  extensive,  beautifully  white,  and  neatly 
built  cemetery,  rivalling  in  extent  and  beauty  the  city 
of  the  living,  the  serpentine  Nile  and  the  numerous 
sails  of  boats,  which  appeared  in  the  far  distance  like 
birds  on  the  wing, — these  made  up  a picture  which 
tempted  us  to  linger  and  enjoy.  Another  visit  to  the 
bazaars,  where  we  met  the  party  of  a steamer  just 
arrived,  and  more  purchases  made,  then  we  were  off 
again.  The  evening  was  calm  with  a bright  moon, 
the  men  rowing  and  singing,  so  ended  another  day 
of  our  happy  voyage,  which  we  regretted  was  so  fast 
drawing  to  a close. 

We  passed  Manfaloot  before  we  had  risen  from  our 
beds,  but  as  the  reis  stopped  just  below  to  give  the 
crew  their  breakfast  and  make  some  purchases,  I took 
a walk  to  explore  the  town.  Finding  it  worth  a visit, 
though  barely  mentioned  in  the  guide  books,  we  de- 
tained the  boat,  and  after  breakfast  all  of  us  walked 
through  the  town,  which  we  found  comparatively  clean 
and  interesting.  Much  of  it  was  washed  away  some 
years  since,  but  it  has  been  rebuilt,  has  several  mosques, 
five  with  minarets,  and  a Coptic  church,  which  we 
visited,  containing  some  very  old  paintings.  It  has  a 
large  and  well  supplied  bazaar  in  which  we  bought  some 
tea,  a steam  flouring  mill,  and  a large  trade  in  wheat. 
There  were  about  thirty  boats  lying  at  its  bank.  A 
governor  resides  here,  and  we  saw  a number  of  liquor 
shops,  cafes,  Janissaries,  Ghawazees  (dancing  girls)  in 
this  town  of  ten  thousand  inhabitants,  generally  un- 
visited by  Nile  tourists!  We  left  at  nearly  noon  with 
a moderate  breeze,  which  increased  to  a gale  as  we 
reached,  at  5 p.  m.  the  dreaded  cliffs  of  Aboofayda, 


THE  CLIFFS  OF  ABOOFAYDA. 


91 


obliging  us  to  “about  ship”  and  run  under  them  for 
shelter,  as  the  wind  made  it  too  rough  for  the  low 
decks  of  a Dahabeeh.  I ascended  the  cliff  as  far  as 
I could  in  a lateral  direction,  about  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  river,  passing  yawning  caves  and  chasms. 
A portion  of  these  extensive  cliffs  was  hanging  almost 
directly  over  our  boat.  During  the  night  the  wind 
continued  to  blow  very  hard.  Our  Dragoman  advised 
us  to  look  well  to  our  arms,  as  this  place  was  infested 
by  Bedouins,  and  a robbery  had  taken  place  here  only 
a short  time  since  of  some  native  merchants  in  a 
boat,  which  was  boarded  by  a party  of  this  lawless 
tribe.  Though  distrusting  any  cause  for  fear,  we  were 
not  unmindful  of  his  advice,  but  were  only  disturbed 
by  the  cries  of  our  watchful  sentinels  who  had  been 
posted  on  the  occasion. 

The  gale  having  subsided  early  in  the  morning,  we 
left  our  singular  moorings,  and  the  crew  plied  the 
oars.  During  the  day,  geese  and  ducks  being  very 
plenty  on  the  sand-bars,  I made  several  excursions 
after  them,  accompanied  by  the  Doctor,  in  our  small 
boat,  but  they  proved  a wild-goose  chase,  as  our  guns 
would  not  carry  far  enough,  and  we  realised  more 
than  ever  the  want  of  a good  modern  rifle.  We  ar- 
rived in  the  evening  at  Boda  and  took  a stroll  around 
the  palace  and  gardens  of  the  viceroy  by  moonlight. 
Afterwards  we  went  into  the  great  sugar-house,  where 
a full  complement  of  men  were  at  work  by  gaslight 
at  the  grinding  mills  and  tending  the  boiling  and 
bleaching  apparatus.  The  Arabs  who  Were  bringing 
in  the  cane  from  the  great  yard  to  the  mill  were 
hurried  up  by  three  drivers,  who  made  an  indiscri- 
minate use  of  a long  koorbash  continually  over  them. 


92 


LETTER  XII. 


The  next  morning  I took  a walk  to  the  cane-field 
to  witness  the  manner  of  cutting.  The  noise  of  a 
thousand  tongues  filled  the  air  before  I emerged  from 
the  grove  of  trees  which  skirt  the  shore.  I soon 
came  to  an  immense  field  of  sugar  cane,  where  a mul- 
titude of  fellahs  were  busily  employed  in  cutting. 
Overseers  mounted  on  swift  horses  were  riding  around, 
hurrying  them  up.  The  cane  is  hacked  up  at  the 
root  with  a short -handled  hoe,  and  is  then  taken 
from  the  heaps  and  trimmed  ready  for  the  camels’ 
backs,  and  the  mill.  Returning  to  the  boat,  after 
breakfast,  we  all  visited  the  sugar- works  and  palace 
of  the  Viceroy.  The  former  cover  a great  space  and 
embraces  a handsome  brick  edifice  320  feet  long  and 
100  broad,  having  at  either  end  two  wings  150  feet 
deep  each,  crossing  and  projecting  front  50  feet,  form- 
ing a large  area,  in  -which  is  a large  reservoir  en- 
closed by  an  iron  fence  with  handsome  gates  and  gas- 
lights in  large  glass  globes.  ' In  the  rear  is  another 
area,  with  a large  elegant  monumental  gas  light  stand 
in  centre.  Surrounding  it  are  curing  and  refining 
houses,  while  contiguous  are  extensive  work  and  ma- 
chine shops,  steam-water  elevators  and  storehouses,  all 
of  brick,  built  in  European  style.  Facing  the  river 
near  by,  are  brick  cottages  with  window -glass  and 
outside  blinds,  each  with  a garden  for  the  employes. 
These  works  have  eight  tall  chimneys,  and  employ 
8 steam-engines  of  20  to  40  horse  power,  1200  men 
and  2500  to  3000  camels.  Mr.  Mein,  the  engineer, 
from  England,  says  he  put  up  the  engines  six  years 
ago,  and  that  the  amount  of  brown  sugar  made  here 
in  the  season  of  two  months  is  about  70,000  moulds 


THE  TOMBS  OF  BENI-IIASSAN. 


93 


of  85lbs.  each,  or  about  six  million  pounds,  besides 
a proportion  m rum  destilled,  and  molasses. 

We  next  took  a walk  to  the  Viceroy’s  new  palace, 
finished  a year  ago,  but  yet  unfurnished.  It  is  on  a 
novel  plan  by  a Greek  architect,  and  combines  Italian, 
Grecian,  and  Oriental  styles.  Already  it  has  cost 
400,000  dollars,  and  is  a monument  of  the  folly  and 
extravagance  of  the  present  despotic  ruler  of  Egypt. 
He  is  a great  merchant,  and  monopolizes  the  manu- 
facture of  sugar,  the  railroads,  steam  navigation  of 
the  Nile,  and  many  other  great  enterprises,  and  his 
revenues  and  expenditures  surpass  belief.  We  were 
shown  all  over  this  one  of  his  numerous  palaces,  and 
the  fine  garden  contiguous,  handsomely  laid  out  in 
European  style.  Returning  to  the  “Gazelle”  we  left 
for  the  tombs  of  Beni-Hassan,  a short  distance  down 
the  river,  the  shore  of  which  having  reached,  we  were 
all  speedily  mounted  on  donkeys  for  the  Speos  An- 
timados  of  Diana,  a grotto  two  miles  distance.  While 
here  we  encountered  some  American  friends  arrived 
in  their  Dahabeeh,  and  all  rode  to  see  the  curious 
tombs  to  the  north  about  same  distance.  We  found 
them  as  represented , exceedingly  interesting  from 
the  perfect  figures  painted  on  the  walls , illustrat- 
ing in  a remarkable  manner  the  habits  and  customs 
of  the  ancient  Egyptians  under  the  Pharaohs.  The 
style  of  the  columns,  from  which  the  Doric  are  said 
to  have  originated,  are  polygons,  lightly  moulded, 
I6V2  feet  high,  and  5 in  diameter.  The  space  be- 
tween them  is  divided  into  a principal  nave  and  two 
aisles,  arched  between,  each  architrave  supported  by 
pillars. 


94 


LETTER  XII. 


We  had  a very  pleasant  ride  to  our  boat  and  left 
in  company  with  our  friends  for  Minieh,  where  we 
arrived  on  a calm  moonlight  evening,  just  in  time  for 
a walk  ashore  and  the  sight  of  a bridal  procession 
by  torch-light. 


LETTER  XIII. 


MINIEH — ITS  SUGAR-WORKS VICEROY’S  PALACE  — DE- 
LAYS AND  EXCURSIONS  ON  THE  RIVER PYRAMIDS  IN 

SIGHT — ARRIVAL  AT  GHIZEH WASHINGTON’S  BIRTH- 
DAY  ASCENT  OF  OLD  CHEOPS— AR*RIVAL  AT  BOULAK 

AND  END  OF  VOYAGE ANOTHER  DAY  AND  THE  LAST 

ON  THE  “GAZELLE”  — TEMPERATURE  AND  WEATHER 
DURING  THE  TRIP — THE  NILE  FLEET. 


It  is  with  no  small  degree  of  satisfaction  and  relief 
that  I commence  this  concluding  letter  of  a series  too 
long  extended.  When  in  the  Crimea,  at  the  close  of 
the  war,  I sent  a few  unsolicited  sketches  to  a jour- 
nal for  my  friends  to  read,  it  was  because  the  scenes 
and  events  were  extraordinary,  and  letter  - writers 
there  but  few.  So  on  the  Nile,  I found  such  a novelty 
in  scenes  and  life,  though  admirably  portrayed  by  ac- 
complished writers,  that  the  subject  I thought,  would 
be  comparatively  new  and  interesting  to  many  who 
have  not  had  access  to  the  volumes  of  Prime,  Warbur- 
ton,  Wilkinson,  Lane,  and  others.  This  is  my  apology 
for  giving,  what  I at  first  intended  to  be  merely  some 
useful  hints  and  directions  to  Nile  tourists,  a journal 
of  our  voyage  in  addition. 


96 


LETTER  XIII. 


My  last  letter  left  us  arrived  at  the  town  of  Minieh, 
where  there  are  other  very  extensive  steam  sugar- 
works  of  the  Viceroy,  which  cover  a space  of  five 
acres.  The  buildings,  of  brick  and  granite,  have  five 
tall  chimneys,  one  that  I measured  being  15  feet 
square  at  base;  another,  of  an  octagon  shape,  13  feet 
in  diameter,  and  I should  judge  of  at  least  220  feet 
in  height.  There  are  five  engines  and  two  cylinder 
mills  for  grinding,  manufactured  in  France,  and  put 
up  under  the  direction  of  a French  engineer.  An  im- 
mense quantity  of  brown  and  loaf-sugar  was  on  hand 
in  the  curing-houses.  The  molasses  is  put  up  in  the 
earthern  jars  from  Kenneh,  holding  about  10  gallons 
and  is  of  superior  quality.  A large  and  handsome 
distilling  apparatus  made  by  Pouderoix  & Mangen, 
Paris,  had  just  been  put  ujo  by  them,  having  copper 
stills  10  feet  in  diameter,  and  36  large  reservoirs. 

The  Viceroy  has  built  a new  palace  here,  similar  to 
that  described  at  Roda.  It  has  four  projecting  piaz- 
zas from  its  four  recessed  sides,  instead  of  their  being 
flush  like  the  other.  The  garden  around  it  was  filled 
with  European  and  tropical  trees,  and  plenty  of  nec- 
tarines, roses,  oranges,  &c.,  were  in  blossom.  While 
here,  a party  of  English  and  Americans  in  the  Daha- 
beeh  “Maria  Louise,”  under  their  national  colors,  ar- 
rived, exchanged  salutes  and  visited  us  on  board.  They 
were  from  Cairo,  bound  up,  and  were  glad  to  get  a 
late  New  York  paper,  only  five  weeks  old.  After 
leaving  Minieh,  I had  another  fruitless  chase  after 
pelicans,  but  succeeded  in  shooting  a duck. 

The  following  morning  being  very  fine  and  calm,  I 
was  again  tempted  out  in  the  small  boat,  at  an  early 
hour,  by  the  sight  of  a huge  solitary  pelican,  looking 


ARRIVAL  AT  BENISOEF. 


97 


more  like  a boat  than  a bird  in  the  water,  with  his 
great  head  and  bill  immersed  in  the  stream,  searching 
for  his  breakfast.  Such  a prize  would  have  been  worth 
the  price  of  a Ballard  rifle,  and  I dare  say  friend  Kim- 
ball of  the  Boston  Museum  would  have  presented  me 
with  one  had  I brought  the  skin  of  the  monster  home 
for  his  collection.  The  want  of  such  an  arm  probably 
saved  the  bird’s  transportation  to  Boston,  as  he  would 
have  been  an  easy  shot.  Three  government  steamers 
were  passed  this  morning,  and  later  another  passenger 
steamer.  At  a village  called  El  Meragher,  the  Viceroy 
is  building  extensive  sugar-works.  Benisoef  was  reached 
in  the  evening,  77  miles  from  Cairo.  The  number  of 
steamers  and  sailing-boats,  the  activity  of  laborers  on 
the  various  public  works  on  the  shore,  indicated  our 
approach  to  a great  metropolis.  The  day  was  occupied 
in  writing,  packing  up,  &c.,  and  in  another  gunning 
excursion  of  half  an  hour,  from  which  I brought  home 
a duck.  Just  after,  about  sunset,  our  Dahabeeh  got 
fast  on  a sand-bar.  It  was  nearly  midnight  before 
the  crew  with  hard  work  could  get  her  off.  This  was 
annoying  to  our  Dragoman,  especially  as  we  were  to 
have  terminated  our  voyage  next  day,  by  an  ascent 
to  the  pyramids  from  Ghizeh. 

Going  on  deck  the  next  morning,  I found  it  calm, 
everything  indicating  a hot  day.  The  pyramids  of 
Dashoor  and  Sakkara  were  in  sight,  and  soon  after, 
those  of  Ghizeh  and  the  citadel  of  Cairo.  The  crew 
were  singing  their  Arab  Nile  songs,  accompanied  by 
the  drums  and  tamborines,  while  one  of  them  gave  a 
specimen  of  dancing.  The  ducks  and  geese  tempted 
me,  with  the  Doctor,  to  make  another  excursion  in 
the  small  boat.  The  “Gazelle”  drifted  two  miles  ahead, 

7 


98 


LETTER  XIII. 


and  a breeze  springing  up,  we  found  ourselves  and 
our  two  oarsmen  no  match  for  her,  so  we  got  a native 
wheat  boat  that  sailed  fast  to  take  us  in  tow,  and 
soon  overhauled  her,  as  she  carried  but  the  small  sail. 
The  wind  veered  ahead  by  noon,  and  blew  so  strong 
that  it  obliged  us  to  lay  at  Toura,  only  four  miles 
from  Ghizeh.  Two  Dahabeehs  were  passed  to-day,  one 
with  a French  party  bound  up,  another  with  a party  of 
ten  Americans  and  Scotch  on  a three  days’  excursion 
to  visit  the  Pyramids  and  Memphis.  The  wind  abating, 
gave  us  the  desired  opportunity  to  reach  Ghizeh  in  the 
evening,  where  we  made  fast  to  the  shore  that  we 
had  left  just  eight  weeks  before. 

February  2 2d. — The  delay  of  a day  by  sand-bar  and 
wind  was  fortunate,  as  it  enabled  us  to  celebrate  this 
anniversary  in  a becoming  manner,  gave  us  propitious 
weather  for  ascending  the  Pyramids,  and  ended  our 
Nile  voyage*.  Our  deck  was  trimmed  with  all  the 
bunting  we  could  muster,  and  the  stars  and  stripes 
hoisted  to  a salute  of  13  guns.  The  wind  from  N. 
W.  was  just  enough  for  comfort.  Our  donkeys  were 
sent  over  in  the  ferry  from  old  Cairo,  and  we  were 
all  mounted  by  nine  o’clock  for  the  Pyramids,  6 miles 
distant.  When  we  arrived  at  the  base  of  “Old  Cheops,” 
tents  were  being  put  up  for  a party  from  the  Viceroy’s 
Harem,  that  were  to  visit  it  next  day.  The  guides 
beset  us  as  usual,  but  our  Dragoman  saved  us  all 
trouble  by  bargaining  with  their  Sheikh  at  the  tariff 
price  of  one  dollar  for  each  person  with  three  guides, 
for  ascending  or  entering  inside  the  Pyramid.  It  being 
somewhat  windy,  none  of  the  party  but  the  Doctor 
accompanied  me  in  the  ascent.  Having  put  myself 
in  good  climbing  trim , and  provided  with  a small 


ASCENT  OF  “OLD  CHEOPS. 


99 


American  flag,  and  an  extra  “pocket  pistol”  as  a 
sanitary  precaution,  I dismissed  one  of  the  guides  and 
would  have  done  so  with  the  second , but  that  was 
not  allowable. 

Without  hurrying  myself,  I made  the  ascent  to  the 
summit  easily  in  fifteen  minutes,  assisted  at  times  by 
only  one  of  the  attendants,  and  displayed  the  flag  to 
those  looking  on  from  below,  saluting  it  with  discharges 
from  one  of  my  pistols.  The  portly  form  of  the  Doctor 
soon  made  its  appearance,  and  a party  of  Frenchmen 
followed.  With  fourteen  guides  we  all  made  a party 
of  twenty-one  persons  on  the  broken  apex  of  Cheops, 
a space  of  about  twenty  square  feet,  though  looking 
from  below  very  diminutive.  We  remained  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour  here,  during  which  our  guides  were 
employed  in  cutting  our  names  in  the  stones  after  our 
own  drawings.  On  descending,  we  met  at  the  entrance 
of  the  Pyramid  the  rest  of  our  party.  The  passage 
looked  so  small,  gloomy,  and  on  so  inclined  a plane, 
that  only  Mr.  L.  and  Miss  R.  ventured  with  me  to 
visit  the  King  and  Queen’s  chamber.  To  penetrate 
by  the  descending  and  ascending  tortuous  and  narrow 
passage,  with  the  uncertain  light  of  candles,  to  the 
King’s  chamber,  in  the  heart  of  this  mass  of  mammoth 
masonry,  requires  more  exertion  than  to  ascend  its 
summit.  It  was  satisfactorily  accomplished  by  those 
who  undertook  it,  for  when  once  in,  it  is  hard  back- 
ing out.  But  if  one'  has  courage,  the  guides  will  “put 
you  through.”  Nothing  but  a large  empty  room  was 
found  there,  but  the  passage  to  it,  so  artfully  and 
ingeniously  concealed  for  so  many  thousand  years, 
must  be  seen  to  be  realized.  These  enduring  monu- 
ments of  the  folly  and  power  of  one  man,  of  skill  of 

7* 


100 


LETTER  XIII. 


design,  and  patient  labor  in  their  erection,  are  too 
well  known  to  require  any  description  from  me. 

I may,  however,  remind  my  readers  that  this  largest 
of  the  three  great  Pyramids  (there  are  six  smaller 
ones)  covers  eleven  acres  of  ground,  has  a base  of 
764  feet  each  way,  and  is  480  feet  high,  or  40  feet 
higher  than  twice  the  height  of  Bunker  Hill  Monu- 
ment. 100,000  men  it  is  estimated  were  employed 
10  years  in  making  the  causeway  on  which  to  convey 
the  stone,  and  360,000  men  for  20  years  in  building 
it.  The  next  in  size,  built  2083  b.  c.,  is  but  little 
inferior  in  dimensions.  The  Sphinx  somewhat  dis- 
appointed me,  though  it  is  seen  at  great  disadvantage, 
being  so  much  buried  in  ruins.  The  tomb  discovered 
by  Col.  Howard  Vyse,  and  the  great  one  of  red  granite 
recently  found  by  a Frenchman,  were  surprisingly  large 
and  interesting.  In  the  excavated  one  of  the  latter 
we  took  our  lunch  and  then  returned  to  our  boat. 
Here  we  dined,  while  floating  down  to  Boulak  where 
we  dropped  anchor,  and  at  sunset  fired  a national 
salute  as  we  struck  our  flag.  Our  voyage  on  the  Nile 
was  now  ended,  but  at  the  invitation  of  our  generous 
El  x^dli,  we  decided  to  spend  the  following  day  and 
night  on  the  “Gazelle.” 

The  last  day  on  the  Nile  was  a lovely  one.  Our 
Dragoman  engaged  donkeys  for  the  gentlemen,  and  at- 
tended us  to  the  hotel  to  engage  rooms,  and  to  the 
bankers,  where  a large  lot  of  letters  and  papers 
awaited  us.  To  the  credit  of  our  reis,  crew  and  ser- 
vants, they  all  remained  on  board  to  await  our  de- 
parture. At  noon  we  tripped  anchor  for  the  berth  of 
the  “Gazelle,”  a mile  further  down  the  river,  passing 
the  Viceroy’s  palace  and  his  six  splendid  steam  yachts, 


END  OF  THE  VOYAGE. 


101 


(three  belonging  to  his  Harem)  and  two  immense  Da- 
habeehs.  We  found  at  the  moorings  on  the  shore 
of  Boulak,  17  Dahabeehs,  among  them  our  old  com- 
panion the  “Zarifa,”  laid  up.  Mahomet  El  Adli  gave  us 
a sumptuous  dinner,  and  the  flags  were  hauled  down 
for  the  last  time.  The  evening  was  employed  in 
settling  up,  making  presents  to  captain,  crew,  cooks 
and  servants,  and  last,  though  not  least,  giving  £ 30. 
or  $ 150  to  our  Dragoman,  his  boat  and  other  ex- 
penses having  cost  him  about  that  sum  more  than 
what  he  estimated  when  we  accepted  his  offer  for  the 
Nile  voyage,  and  in  consideration  of  his  liberality  and 
uniform  kindness.  The  old  songs  were  sung  over  by 
our  faithful,  ever  kind,  obedient,  and  respectful  Arab 
crew,  and  we  retired  from  our  cosy  parlor  at  a late 
hour.  After  breakfast  we  took  leave  of  all  that  had 
contributed  so  much  to  the  happiness  of  sixty-five  days, 
every  one  of  us  regretting  the  time  had  not  been  ex- 
tended. 

In  closing  the  narrative  of  the  voyage  I fulfil  a 
promise  to  give  the  result  of  my  daily  record  of  the 
thermometer  and  state  of  wind  and  weather  which 
will  be  found  in  the  appendix.  The  temperature  of  the 
interior  of  our  Dahabeeh,  which  at  no  time  had  any 
artificial  heat  but  that  from  our  French  carcel  lamp 
was  within  from  3 to  5 degrees  of  the  temperature 
of  the  outside , except  in  the  evening.  The  lowest 
ranges  of  the  thermometer  during  the  65  days  on  the 
river  were  at  sunrise  in  the  saloon  Jan.  3d,  45°;  Feb. 
15th,  45°,  and  Feb.  16th,  46°  degrees;  and  the  highest 
at  same  hour  and  place  were  December  21st,  65°; 
Jany.  1st,  62°;  Jany.  7th,  64°;  Jany.  20th,  62°.  The 
average  of  the  11  days  in  December  at  that  time  of 


102 


LETTER  XIII. 


day  was  a fraction  over  57°;  that  of  31  days  in  Ja- 
nuary about  the  same,  and  23  days  of  February  bl1/^0. 
The  lowest  range  at  2 p.  m.  was  65°  on  four  several 
days  in  December,  and  one  in  February.  The  highest 
was  Jany.  15th,  19th,  2lst,  22d,  and  23d,  when  it 
stood  at  80°.  The  average  of  the  11  days  in  De- 
cember at  that  hour  was  683/4°,  that  of  the  31  days 
in  January  75 1/2°J  and  23  days  in  February  70°. 
During  the  whole  period  there  was  a remarkable  uni- 
formity in  the  temperature  of  the  cabin  in  the  evening 
until  10  p.  m.,  when  it  varied  from  65°  to  70°,  and 
averaged  68°.  Of  the  65  days,  17  were  calm  and 
clear;  22  clear,  with  moderate  breezes;  17  clear  with 
fresh  breezes,  and  7 partly  or  wholly  cloudy,  rarely 
the  latter.  The  prevailing  winds  were  12  days  south- 
erly, 29  northerly,  varying  mostly  to  the  West,  and  one 
day  West  wind.  There  were  only  two  foggy  mornings, 
— and  not  a shower  of  rain  the  whole  period,  but  a 
slight  sprinkle  at  Thebes. 

The  Nile  fleet  that  we  saw  or  heard  from  while  on 
the  river  numbered  30  Dahabeehs,  17  of  which  were 
under  American,  10  English,  and  3 French  flags.  As 
there  were  a larger  number  of  Americans  this  season 
than  usual  who  wished  to  make  the  voyage  in  steam- 
ers, the  Egyptian  line  was  well  patronized  for  the 
reason  of  their  being  no  other.  Besides  sending  one 
every  twenty  days,  several  extra  ones  were  obtained 
by  parties  when  a sufficient  number  warranted.  The 
greater  number  of  these  passengers,  amounting  per- 
haps to  about  150,  were  Americans.  Much  complaint 
was  made  that  the  food  on  some  of  the  boats  was 
insufficient  and  unfit  to  eat,  and  with  good  reason,  as 
T know  of  some  that  were  made  seriously  ill  by  un- 


COMPLAINTS  AGAINST  THE  RIVER,  COMPANY.  ]03 


healthy  food.  I have  not  the  particulars  to  give,  but 
the  matter  was  brought  to  the  notice  of  our  Consul  at 
Cairo  and  damages  sought  to  be  recovered  from  the 
proprietors,  with  what  success  I know  not;  but  I think 
the  company  will  for  their  own  interests  correct  the 
errors  of  the  past  season,  or  else  had  better  give  up 
running  their  boats  for  passengers. 


TOUR  IN  SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE. 

LETTER  I. 


PREPARATIONS  IN  CAIRO CONTRACT  WITH  DRAGOMAN — 

CARAVAN  AND  MILITARY  SPECTACLE — VISIT  TO  SUEZ 

AND  THE  RED  SEA THE  CANAL — THE*  NEW  PORT 

AND  DRY  DOCK — LEAVE  CAIRO  FOR  ALEXANDRIA — 

CARNIVAL DEPARTURE  FROM  EGYPT DIFFICULT 

LANDING  AT  JAFFA. 


This  journey  had  been  determined  upon  by  the 
UR.  W.  L.”  party  of  the  Nile  before  the  voyage  was 
ended,  and  all  were  desirous  to  engage  our  Dragoman 
with  his  cook  and  servants,  that  had  attended  us  so 
satisfactorily  on  the  river,’ for  our  tent  life  in  the 
holy  land.  They  had  all  been  there  before,  and  were 
acquainted  with  the  mode  of  travelling,  management 
of  tents,  baggage,  horses,  &c. 

Our  first  object  after  arriving  at  the  hotel  in  Cairo 
on  the  25th  of  February,  was  to  consult  Mahomed  El 
Adli  on  the  subject,  determine  our  route,  the  length  of 


CONTRACT  WITH  DRAGOMAN. 


105 


the  journey,  and  get  from  him  his  lowest  price  for  a 
given  number  of  days,  to  include  every  thing  needed 
that  is  customary  for  the  entire  trip.  We  decided  to 
have  new  tents  and  equipage,  canteen,  English  side- 
saddles , and  a palanquin  to  be  purchased  in  Cairo ; 
and  to  start  from  Alexandria  for  Jaffa  by  the  French 
steamer  of  the  7th  of  March.  Our  Dragoman’s  terms 
were  accepted  and  the  contract  drawn  up  and  signed 
as  usual.  The  following  is  an  exact  copy: — 

Agreement  made  between  H.  R.,  W.  W.  W.,  and 
C.  H.  L.,  of  the  first  part,  and  Mahomed  El  Adli  of 
Alexandria,  Dragoman,  of  the  second  part,  witnesseth: 

1st.  That  the  said  Mahomed  El  Adli  agrees  to  act 
as  Dragoman  and  servant  to  the  above  parties,  in- 
cluding Miss  R.,  Mrs.  W.,  and  Mrs.  B.  (six  in  number), 
during  a tour  in  Syria,  and  Palestine  commencing  at 
Jaffa  or  Beyrout  and  to  include  Jerusalem,  Hebron, 
Bethlehem,  Rachel’s  tomb,  Pools  of  Solomon,  Dead  Sea, 
the  Jordan  and  Jericho,  Damascus,  Baalbec,  Lebanon, 
and  the  Cedars,  by  whatever  route  said  parties  of  the 
first  part  may  choose,  through  Palestine  and  the  Holy 
Land,  or  partly  by  the  Mediterranean. 

The  fares  on  steamers  from  Alexandria  to  Jaffa  and 
Beyrout  and  back  to  Alexandria  for  the  Dragoman, 
servants,  cook,  expenses  of  freight  on  tents,  provisions, 
and  every  thing  except  the  wines  and  personal  baggage 
of  the  six  persons  above  named,  to  be  paid  by  Maho- 
med El  Adli,  who  is  also  to  furnish  five  good  horses,  * 
with  suitable  bridles,  three  new  English  side-saddles, 
three  good  saddles  for  the  gentlemen,  a “caravan,”  or 

* The  palanquin  having  been  abandoned,  another  horse, 
making  six  in  all,  was  provided. 


106 


LETTER  I. 


palanquin,  of  suitable  size  for  two  ladies,  with  four 
mules , and  when  required  in  cities  for  the  daily  use 
of  the  party  not  wishing  to  use  the  palanquin,  another 
horse  is  to  be  provided;  also  a sufficient  number  of 
mules  for  carrying  the  personal  baggage,  wines,  &c., 
of  the  party  of  six  whenever  and  wherever  required, 
during  the  entire  tour.  Also  two  tents  of  12  ropes 
each,  for  the  ladies  and  gentlemen,  with  a separate 
cabinet  to  each  complete, — a dining  tent  of  14  ropes, 
and  a kitchen  tent,  with  flags,  &c. — to  be  properly 
furnished  with  new  bedsteads,  beds  and  sufficient  bed- 
ding for  each  person,  including  tent  furniture  and  equip- 
ments as  is  customary,  and  all  to  be  of  best  quality. 
Also  to  furnish  provisions  of  all  kinds  (except  wines) 
necessary  for  the  journey  that  are  usually  provided, 
two  good  servants,  a first  class  cook,  three  attendants 
for  the  ladies-horses  or  palanquin,  with  guards,  guides, 
&c.,  whenever  required. 

2d.  The  pace  of  the  horses,  the  length  of  each  day’s 
journey,  and  the  time  of  starting,  as  well  as  the  route, 
to  be  decided  by  the  party  of  the  first  part,  who  are 
to  have  perfect  command  and  control  over  the  move- 
ments of  all  persons  with  them  connected  in  this  tour. 
All  the  horses,  mules  and  palanquin,  to  be  at  the  dis- 
position at  all  times  of  said  party. 

3d.  Mahomed  El  Adli  is  to  furnish  said  party  of 
six  with  three  meals  a day,  at  such  hours  as  they  may 
choose,  but  it  is  expressly  agreed  that  if  any  one  or 
all  of  the  party  should  from  cold  or  unpleasant  weather, 
or  any  other  discomfort  of  tent  life,  deem  it  more 
prudent  or  agreeable,  they  are  at  liberty  to  stop  at 
any  hotel  or  convent  they  may  elect,  instead  of  in 
camp,  when  and  where  they  choose,  and  that  such  ex- 


CONTRACT  WITH  DRAGOMAN. 


107 


pense  at  hotels  or  convents  during  the  journey,  ex- 
cept wines,  is  to  be  paid  by  the  said  Dragoman,  who 
is  also  to  pay  all  backsheesh,  fees,  or  presents,  neces- 
sary or  customary,  to  all  persons  in  any  way  connected 
with  the  journey,  excursions  or  sight-seeing,  excepting 
only  the  two  waiters  and  cook,  so  that  the  said  party 
of  six  shall  not  be  under  obligation  to  pay  any  thing 
except  what  is  set  forth  specially  in  this  contract. — 
Neither  are  they  to  be  held  responsible  for  any  dam- 
age to  horses,  mules,  tents,  or  other  articles  used  on 
the  journey.  Everything  connected  with  the  furnishing 
by  said  Dragoman  to  be  in  readiness  at  Alexandria 
by  the  seventh  day  of  March  next,  to  embark  on  board 
the  steamer  of  the  Messageries  Imperiales,  or  any 
other  leaving  after  that  date. 

4th.  In  consideration  of  the  performance  of  the  fore- 
going agreement  on  the  part  of  the  said  Dragoman, 
the  party  of  the  first  part  engage  that  the  tour  shall 
extend  at  least  to  the  term  of  thirty  days  from  its 
commencement,  and  to  pay  him  eleven  pounds  sterling, 
each  day  of  said  term,  which  is  to  be  in  full  payment 
of  all  expenses  named  in  the  agreement  aforesaid; 
and  should  the  term  exceed  30  days,  to  pay  at  the 
same  rate. — Should  any  one  or  more  of  the  party  of 
six  persons  wish  to  leave  at  Jerusalem,  Jaffa,  or  Bey- 
rout,  before  the  expiration  of  the  30  days,  they  may 
do  so  by  paying  for  the  remainder  of  the  number  of 
days  of  the  term  half-price,  or  eighteen  shillings  four 
pence  each  person  pr.  day. — The  time  of  the  voyage 
between  Jaffa  and  Beyrout,  if  made  by  steamer,  to  be 
deducted  from  the  thirty  days’  pay  to  the  Dragoman 
at  the  rate  of  £ 1 1 pr.  day,  and  the  six  fares  on  board 
to  be  paid  by  the  said  party  of  six. 


108 


LETTER  I. 


5th.  The  money  to  be  paid  to  the  Dragoman,  and 
advances  made,  as  follows:  One  hundred  and  fifteen 
pounds  to  be  paid  at  Cairo,  the  receipt  of  which  he 
hereby  acknowledges.  Eighty-five  pounds  at  Alexan- 
dria. Ten  pounds  at  Jerusalem  and  thirty  pounds  at 
Beyrout. 

The  balance  to  be  paid  on  final  return  to  Beyrout 
and  conclusion  of  the  above  contract. 

In  case  of  any  disagreement  between  the  parties,  the 
whole  matter  to  be  referred  for  final  decision  to  the 
United  States  Consul-General  at  Alexandria. 

Witness  our  hands  this  twenty-  seventh  day  of 
Febr.  1867  at  Cairo. 

(Signed)  C.  H.  L.  for  self  and  party, 

and  seal  of  Mahomed  el  Adli. 

The  time  for  preparation  by  El  Adli  being  quite 
short  (only  eight  days),  the  tents  and  palanquin  were 
ordered  by  him  at  once;  saddles,  beds,  bedding,  tent 
furniture,  table  and  kitchen  ware  were  purchased,  and 
then  he  left  for  Alexandria  to  get  his  supply  of  pro- 
visions ready,  to  return  for  us  by  the  5th,  leaving  his 
elder  brother  Mustapha  (a  Dragoman  just  returned 
from  a Nile  voyage)  in  charge,  whom  he  had  engaged 
to  take  with  him  as  an  assistant  on  our  journey.  Our 
cook  and  servants  were  re-engaged  and  the  preparations 
progressed  rapidly. 

During  the  eight  days  that  we  remained  in  Cairo, 
we  witnessed  a novel  spectacle,  or  ceremony,  which, 
also  with  our  visit  to  Suez  and  the  Red  Sea,  I will  de- 
scribe. The  ceremony  is  an  annual  one,  performed  in 
Cairo  preparatory  to  the  starting  of  the  caravan 
with  the  pilgrims  for  Mecca.  We  took  carriages  for 
the  citadel,  in  front  of  which  the  procession  was  to 


THE  MECCA  CARAVAN. 


109 


pass,  and  obtained  an  excellent  position  directly  on 
the  line  kept  by  the  guards  and  police.  The  great 
area  behind  us  was  completely  filled  with  the  multi- 
tude of  varied  and  oriental  costumes  and  complexions 
of  the  native  population , interspersed  with  a few 
foreigners.  The  procession  occupied  an  hour  and  a 
half  in  passing  our  carriages,  and  consisted  of  about 
5000  regular  troops,  numerous  camels  richly  covered; 
and  bearing  pilgrims,  accompanied  with  fantastically 
dressed  dervishes.  The  following  was  the  order  of 
marching : 

Twenty  camels  gaily  decorated  and  furnished  for  the 
pilgrimage  complete. — Mounted  military  police. — Chief 
magistrate  of  Cairo  splendidly  dressed  and  mounted. — 
Military  escort,  consisting  of  pioneers,  two  bands  of 
music,  one  regiment  of  foot  chasseurs  with  rifles  and 
sword-bayonets,  two  regiments  of  infantry,  and  bands 
with  white  and  yellow  uniforms,  a regiment  of  600 
lancers  dressed  in  blue  jackets  with  yellow  trimmings 
and  red  trousers,  their  lances  with  green  and  crim- 
son pennons,  a mounted  band  of  music  preceding  them, 
generals  and  staff,  four  squadrons  of  cavalry,  two  with 
red  and  two  with  white  horses,  a mounted  band,  four 
batteries  of  artillery,  men  mounted  and  dressed  in  red 
and  blue  uniforms  armed  with  short  rifles  and  sword- 
bayonets,  mounted  police,  a brilliant  staff  of  officers  and 
guards. — The  cover  of  the  tombs  of  the  prophets,  borne 
on  camels,  appearing  like  a large  and  highly  decorated 
catafalque,  the  camels  richly  caparisoned,  guards,  a 
squadron  of  cavalry,  fifteen  camels  completely  covered 
with  rich  and  gay  housings  of  cloth  wrought  with 
various  colored  beads  and  feathers,  and  a mounted 
guard  with  band  of  music. 


110 


LETTER  I. 


I omit  any  further  description , as  I found  it  im- 
possible to  obtain  any  reliable  information  in  expla- 
nation of  this  ceremony,  and  left  the  whole  subject  to 
occupy  myself  with  preparations  for  our  own  pilgrimage 
to  Jerusalem. 

Three  days  were  spent  in  writing  letters  home,  vis- 
iting the  bazaars,  and  then  on  the  first  day  of  March 
we  were  all  behind  the  “iron  horse”  spanning  the  de- 
sert which  intervenes  between  Cairo  and  Suez.  The 
scenery  after  leaving  Heliopolis  behind  us  (already 
described  in  Nile  Letter  No.  5)  was  a continued  desert 
with  gently  undulating  sand  hills,  or  a rolling  prairie 
of  sand.  At  the  half-way  station  is  an  oasis  or  pretty 
cottage  restaurant  with  flowers  around  it,  its  interior 
filled  up  as  a museum  of  natural  history,  with  imple- 
ments of  hunting  and  warfare  tastefully  arranged. 
We  arrived  at  3 l/2  p.  m.,  in  h1/^  hours  from  Cairo. 
The  second-class  carriages  are  very  comfortable  and 
will  save  a needless  expense.  We  found  the  hotel  at 
Suez  the  best  in  the  East  without  exception;  it  is 
kept  by  an  employe  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental 
Steam  Ship  Company  on  a liberal  scale  under  their 
control.  The  same  evening  we  all  took  a walk  to  the 
other  side  of  the  bay  and  saw  a party  start  off  on 
camels  for  Jerusalem  by  way  of  mount  Sinai.  Here 
we  also  visited  the  great  canal  excavation  made  within 
two  years,  in  the  bed  of  which  was  a thick  incrusta- 
tion of  salt  on  the  water  deposit:  our  walk  was  ex- 
tended on  our  return  through  the  little  and  thriving 
town  grown  up  of  late  years  by  the  business  created 
by  the  large  number  of  workmen  on  the  canal  and 
port,  and  the  public  works  of  the  Viceroy. 

Having  engaged  the  excellent  guide,  Joseph,  we  em- 


SUEZ — THE  DRY  DOCK. 


Ill 


barked  in  a sailing-boat  for  a visit  down  the  bay  to 
the  dry  dock  and  other  objects  of  interest.  This  fine 
specimen  of  masonry  was  constructed  by  the  present 
Viceroy,  commenced  in  1863  and  finished  in  1866. 
It  is  450  feet  long  by  100  broad.  The  new  portnow 
building  for  vessels  by  the  canal  company  will  require 
3 to  4000  blocks  of  concrete,  each  twelve  feet  by 
six,  and  five  feet  high,  to  construct  the  breakwater. 
They  are  made  on  the  spot  and  require  three  months’ 
time  to  dry  them.  French  labourers,  engineers,  and  su- 
perintendents were  very  actively  engaged  on  these  ex- 
tensive works.  We  sailed  farther  down  the  bay,  where 
was  anchored  the  fleet  of  the  Viceroy,  consisting  of  a 
steam  frigate  and  five  smaller  steamers,  besides  several 
European  vessels,  among  them  the  fine  P.  and  0.  Co’s 
steamer,  the  “Suratt,”  of  the  Calcutta  line.  She  is  3000 
tons,  700  horse-power,  and  350  feet  in  length,  making 
the  voyage  (touching  at  Aden  and  Point  de  Galle)  in 
28  days.  The  fare  1st  class  is  £75.  We  were  poli- 
tely received  by  the  officers  on  going  aboard,  and  shown 
her  spacious  and  sumptuous  accommodations.  On  re- 
turning to  the  inner  but  shallow  harbour,  where  it  is 
said  Moses  crossed,  we  landed  to  look  at  the  new 
sweet-water  canal  finished  about  two  years  since.  Its 
locks  and  boats  indicate  considerable  business  with  the 
valley  of  that  name. 

On  our  return  to  our  hotel,  a fine  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  was  had  from  its  roof,  and  a spare 
hour  was  devoted  by  our  Doctor  R.  in  enjoying  a 
bath  from  a small  boat  in  the  waters  of  the  Red  Sea, 
while  he  whistled,  as  he  told  us,  the  march  of  “Moses 
in  Egypt”  I visited  with  him  and  Mr.  L.  in  the 


112 


LETTER  I. 


evening  a cafe  chant  ant , where  we  heard  some  ex- 
cellent singing  of  operatic  music. 

We  left  reluctantly  the  next  morning  this  comfort- 
able town,  where  a few  days  can  be  pleasantly  spent 
by  travellers  in  Egypt,  if  time  will  allow.  On  our  re- 
turn to  Cairo,  arriving  at  our  hotel,  we  found  our 
tents  pitched  in  front  on  the  great  square  for  our  ex- 
amination, and  we  were  pleased  with  the  roomy  accom- 
modation. The  following  day  was  devoted  to  packing 
up,  and  El  Adli,  who  had  returned  from  Alexandria, 
took  charge  of  our  effects  to  send  them  with  his  by 
rail. 

The  5th  of  the  month  at  8 o’clock  we  were  off 
from  the  station,  and  soon  took  our  last  look  of  the 
city  and  its  prominent  citadel.  Arriving  at  Alexandria 
at  2 p.  m.  we  found  it  in  a state  of  high  carnival. 
The  streets  were  full  of  grotesque  and  other  kinds 
of  costumes  with  and  without  masks,  while  the  popu- 
lation of  the  European  part  of  city  were  to  be  seen 
in  holiday  array,  either  in  carriages,  at  the  windows, 
or  on  the  promenades.  A masked  ball  which  I did 
not  attend , ended  the  carnival  about  daylight  the 
following  morning. 

The  next  day  was  occupied  in  shopping  and  enter- 
taining some  old  friends  from  Smyrna  established  here. 
Our  appointed  sailing  day  was  postponed  to  the  9th, 
as  the  uTibre ” had  been  detained  at  Marseilles  two 
days,  and  had  not  arrived.  Our  time,  however,  was 
pleasantly  spent,  and  an  excellent  opera  enjoyed  at 
the  new  opera  house.  Our  Consul  General,  Mr.  Hale, 
being  absent  on  business,  we  left  his  books,  kindly 
loaned  us,  without  having  the  opportunity  of  personally 
thanking  him.  About  the  last  moment  we  received 


VOYAGE  TO  JAFFA. 


113 


photographs  of  our  Dragoman  and  servants  from  Cairo 
where  they  had  been  taken  for  us. 

Early  in  the  morning  El  Adli  was  promptly  on 
hand  to  take  charge  of  our  luggage  at  the  “Hotel  Ab- 
batt”  and  conduct  us  on  board  the  steamer.  A strong 
wind  from  the  W.N.W.  was  blowing  which  had  pre- 
vailed for  the  three  preceding  days,  and  we  reasonably 
expected  a rough  sea  as  soon  as  we  cleared  the  port. 
The  skies  were  however,  bright,  and  the  panorama 
a pleasing  one,  as  we  steamed  from  this  large  mart 
of  commerce,  its  port  filled  with  shipping,  while  the 
city,  with  its  half-oriental  look,  the  windmills  on  the 
point,  and  Pompey’s  pillar  gradually  receded  from  sight. 
It  was  curious  to  see  the  bright  blue  Mediterranean 
change  its  hue  by  a distinct  line  of  demarcation  to 
a dull  grey.  This  is  caused  by  the  Rosetta  branch 
of  the  Nile,  whose  waters  extend  into  the  sea  a distance 
of  ten  miles. 

Among  the  passengers  were  Col.  J.  P.  Sandford  of 
Chicago,  whose  conversation  was  highly  entertaining, 
and  W.  H.  Bidwell  of  the  Eclectic  Magazine,  New- York, 
who  was  by  the  request  of  secretary  Seward  about  to 
make  some  enquires  into  the  state  of  the  Jaffa  colo- 
nists, and  report  the  same  to  him. 

A south-west  wind  prevailed  the  next  day,  and  blew 
fresh  with  heavy  sea  as  we  approached  about  noon  the 
shores  of  Jaffa , or  Joppa.  This  town  has  no  harbour, 
being  only  an  open  roadstead  with  the  protection  o 
a reef  of  rocks  for  small  vessels  to  lie  inside  of  this 
natural  breakwater.  We  came  to  anchor  a mile  out- 
side, and  the  possibility  of  landing  was  for  a long 
time  doubtful.  A heavy  swell  prevailed,  and  the 
breakers  near  the  town  looked  any  thing  but  inviting. 

8 


114 


LETTER  I. 


The  large  boats  so  admirably  managed  by  skilful  Arabs 
came  off,  and  were  with  difficulty  kept  from  being 
stove  alongside.  It  was  said  there  was  no  danger, 
and  the  disembarking  commenced.  There  were  many 
others  besides  ourselves  to  land,  with  quantities  of 
baggage,  tents,  &c.  A perfect  babel  of  voices  pre- 
vailed, enormous  prices  demanded,  and  much  time  lost 
in  making  preparations.  We  finally  succeeded  in  se- 
curing two  large  boats,  embarked  with  some  difficulty, 
and  reached  the  shore  at  four  o’clock  without  “ship- 
ping a sea,”  though  tossed  on  waves  so  large  that  when 
we  descended  between  them  the  masts  of  our  steamer 
were  invisible. 

On  landing,  we  got  quarters  for  the  night  at  the 
Latin  Convent  of  the  Franciscan  brotherhood. 


LETTER  II. 


AT  THE  CONVENT  AT  JAFFA THE  AMERICAN  COLONY 

OUR  CARAVAN,  AND  START  FOR  JERUSALEM ENCAMP- 
MENT AT  RAMLEH — ARRIVAL  AT  THE  HOLY  CITY 

TENTS  PITCHED  OUTSIDE  ITS  WALLS A GALE  AT 

NIGHT VISIT  TO  JERUSALEM — WEATHER  BAD  — 

LEAVE  THE  TENTS  FOR  APARTMENTS  IN  THE  CITY 
— VISIT  TO  THE  HOLY  PLACES — THE  MOUNT  OF 

OLIVES — BETHANY — GARDEN  OF  GETHSEMANE 

LEAVE  FOR  HEBRON  AND  A FIVE  DAYS’  JOURNEY. 


The  Latin  Convent  situated  close  to  the  landing, 
commands  a fine  view  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  the 
hospitality  afforded  to  those  who  cannot  obtain  lodgings 
or  meals  at  the  small  hotel,  is  said  to  be  the  best 
in  the  town,  but  poor  enough.  Though  nothing  is 
charged,  yet  about  10  francs  per  diem  for  each  person 
is  expected.  There  is  also  a Russian  Convent,  which 
gladly  offers  its  accomodations  on  the  same  terms. 
The  monks  serve  you  with  zeal,  and  the  one  who  of- 
ficiated at  our  quarters  was  very  loquacious,  and  had 
travelled  in  both  North  and  South  America.  We 
visited  “ the  house  of  one  Simon  the  tanner ”,  which  is 
very  near  the  Convent,  and  began  to  realize  that  we  were 


116 


LETTER  II. 


on  sacred  ground,  though  outward  appearances  did 
not  indicate  it.  After  a poor  dinner  with  execrable 
wine,  and  a tolerable  night’s  lodging,  we  made  ready 
the  next  morning  for  camp.  The  weather  was  fine, 
El  Adli  and  our  servants  took  our  personal  baggage, 
reduced  to  a small  portmanteau  each,  and  sundry  pack- 
ages for  the  pack-mules,  and  we  left  for  our  horses, 
which,  together  with  our  tents,  baggage-mules , and 
palanquin,  were  outside  the  walls. 

On  our  way  we  met  and  had  conversation  with 
some  of  the  American  colonists,  and  promised  to  visit 
them  on  our  return.  At  the  rendezvous  for  starting 
we  spent  some  time  in  selecting  horses  and  getting 
all  the  mules  packed.  The  palanquin  proved  to  he  so 
cumbersome  and  considered  so  unnecessary,  unless  some 
of  us  should  be  unable  to  ride,  that  we  concluded  to 
leave  it  behind,  and  run  the  risk  of  getting  a lighter 
one  at  Jerusalem.  They  are  very  rarely  used,  and 
during  our  whole  journey  we  had  no  occasion  for  one. 

At  noon  our  party  were  all  mounted,  and  the  mules 
with  tents  and  baggage  sent  ahead  to  encamp  for  the 
night  at  Ramleh.  Our  Caravan  consisted  of,  including 
ourselves,  twenty  persons,  ten  mules  and  nine  horses. 
Our  attendants  were  two  Dragomen , two  servants, 
and  cook,  the  owner  of  the  horses  and  mules,  three 
attendants  for  the  ladies,  and  five  muleteers.  The  road 
we  took  from  Jaffa  was  lined  with  extensive  gardens 
and  orange  and  lemon  orchards  loaded  with  the  large 
and  luscious  fruit  peculiar  to  this  place.  As  we 
emerged  from  these  into  the  open  country  the  view 
was  very  fine.  The  Plains  of  Sharon  beautifully  green 
with  the  young  crops,  were  brilliant  with  wild  flowers 
in  a great  variety,  while  the  distant  rocky,  and  rugged 


HIDE  TO  THE  HOLY  CITY. 


117 


mountains  we  were  to  pass,  had  a soft  grey  hue.  Our 
path  (for  roads  there  are  none)  was  an  easy  one, 
allowing  us,  a rarity  in  Syria,  to  trot  our  horses  part 
of  the  way;  and  by  three  o’clock  we  reached  the  town 
of  Ramleh , which  has  a Latin  Convent  in  addition  to 
a Greek  and  Armenian,  besides  two  Turkish  mosques 
and  a population  of  2000. 

Passing  through  the  town  we  soon  came  in  sight 
of  our  tents  all  pitched  and  ready  for  us,  on  a grassy 
sward  sprinkled  with  wild  flowers , near  a pool  of 
water.  We  took  possession  of  our  novel  and  com- 
fortable quarters,  and  after  a ramble  over  the  fields, 
enjoyed  one  of  those  good  dinners  prepared  by  our 
cook  and  servants  of  the  “Gazelle.”  Our  first  night’s 
sleep  in  camp  was  sound  and  undisturbed  save  by 
the  tinkling  bells  of  our  mules.  At  half-past  five 
o’clock  in  the  morning  we  rose,  breakfasted  an  hour 
later,  and  in  another  hour  were  all  mounted  for  the 
Holy  City,  a long  ride  of  nine  hours.  We  were  accom- 
panied by  a party  of  Americans,  at  the  head  of  which 
was  our  Nile  acquaintance,  the  genial  and  generous 
well-known  J.  L.  C.  of  Phila.  After  having  crossed 
the  Plains  of  Sharon,  from  thence  through  the  pass  of 
the  mountains  of  Ephraim,  Latrone,  and  the  Valley 
of  Elah,  where  David  killed  Goliah,  noon  brought 
us  to  an  old  ruined  mosque,  and  under  the  shelter  of 
its  olive-trees  we  spread  our  lunch  and  rested  our 
wearied  limbs  on  the  grass  within  its  walls.  While 
here  we  met  a party  of  Nile  acquaintances  from  Je- 
rusalem on  their  way  to  Jaffa.  After  resting  an  hour 
and  a half  we  mounted  our  horses  and  slowly  wended 
our  way  along  the  stony  and  mountainous  path.  Still 
continuing  to  ascend  one  summit  after  another,  at 


118 


LETTER  II. 


six  o’clock  our  glad  eyes  first  beheld  the  towers  of 
the  Russian  Convent  and  soon  after  that  of  the  City 
itself.  In  a half-hour  more  we  arrived  at  the  Convent, 
near  which  and  the  walls  of  the  City  we  found  our 
tents  pitched,  and  gladly  exchanged  our  saddles  for 
tent  chairs.  After  a late  dinner  we  sought  a night’s 
repose.  The  very  hot  weather,  together  with  such  a 
long  ride,  for  the  first  time  caused  much  fatigue,  which 
was  borne  quite  as  well,  however,  by  the  ladies  as  the 
gentlemen. 

Towards  morning  our  rest  was  broken  by  a sudden 
tempest  and  all  hands  roused  to  keep  the  tents  secure 
by  additional  braces.  They  remained  firm , but  the 
wind  continuing  to  blow  all  night  and  morning  from 
seaward,  and  our  situation  being  too  exposed,  the  tents 
were  shifted  nearer  the  walls  on  the  side  of  the  hill, 
while  we  paid  a visit  to  the  City.  During  the  day 
the  wind  changed  to  N.W.  and  blew  hard  and  cold 
until  evening,  when  it  moderated,  but  during  the  night 
increased  again  with  some  rain. 

The  day  following  was  a boisterous  one  with  driving 
clouds.  We  however  joined  some  friends  to  make  up 
a party  for  visiting  the  Mosque  of  Omar , which  until 
recently  had  been  forbidden  ground  to  Christians. 
With  the  cavasse  sent  by  the  American  Consul,  and  a 
special  permission,  for  which  about  2 dollars  each  person 
was  paid  for  in  advance,  we  were  conducted  by  an 
official  through  the  “ Holy  of  Holies”  the  description 
of  which  I refer  to  others.  After  being  hurried 
through  this  sacred  and  beautiful  temple  of  Mohammed, 
we  next  went  to  the  Mosque  of  El-Aksa , on  Mount 
Moria,  once  the  Christian  Church  of  the  Virgin  Mary. 
Having  visited  all  the  sacred  places  of  the  Moham- 


VISITS  TO  VAKIOUS  PLACES. 


119 


medans  in  the  Haram  Ech-Cherif , we  returned  to 
our  tents  as  the  weather  looked  bad  and  threatened 
rain.  A consultation  was  had  about  taking  quarters 
in  one  of  the  hotels  in  the  City,  a change  provided 
for  in  our  contract.  El  Adli  proposed  engaging  for  us 
furnished  apartments  in  a good  house  well  situated, 
to  take  his  stores,  cook,  and  servants  and  furnish  us 
our  meals  there.  We  returned  to  the  City  through 
the  Damascus  gate,  and  on  arriving  at  the  house  of 
Max  Unger,  was  shown  by  his  wife,  a pleasant  and 
obliging  woman,  the  apartments,  very  comfortably  and 
neatly  furnished,  and  overlooking  the  whole  City,  with 
the  Mount  of  Olives  and  country  around  to  the  east. 
Our  Dragoman’s  proposition  was  gladly  accepted,  as 
it  gave  us  superior  accommodations  and  a better  served 
table  than  a hotel,  though  there  were  two  first-class 
ones  here  filled  mostly  with  Americans,  many  from 
their  tents.  The  necessary  transfer  was  made  before 
sunset,  and  we  dined  in  our  new  quarters  with  which 
the  ladies  were  highly  pleased. 

The  next  day  was  clear,  though  a cold  wind  prevailed, 
and  our  flags  were  displayed  from  the  walls  in  front, 
which  rose  sixty  feet  above  the  next  house  directly 
below  us.  With  our  guide  we  visited  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre , Via  Dolorosa , St.  Stephen's  Gate , 
Armenian  Convent , Dilate’ s House , arch  of  the  Ecce 
Homo , House  of  Veronica , Church  of  the  Flagellaton 
Jetv's  wailing  place , and  the  large  stones  supposed 
to  have  been  part  of  an  arched  causeway  connecting 
Mount  Zion  with  Mount  Moriah.  The  fine  weather 
of  the  following  morning  induced  us  to  visit  the  Mount 
of  Olives.  After  breakfast  our  horses  were  called  in 
requisition,  and  issuing  forth  by  the  Damascus  gate 


120 


LETTER  II. 


we  passed  around  the  N.E.  angle  of  the  walls,  and  rid- 
ing directly  across  the  Valley  of  Jehosophat , ascended 
the  sacred  mount.  On  its  summit  we  alighted  to 
ascend  the  tower  and  enjoy  the  fine  view  from  its 
top,  extending  as  far  as  the  Dead  Sea.  A chapel  erected 
by  Habena,  mother  of  Constantine,  stands  here.  There 
are  many  olive-trees,  some  of  great  age,  yet  remaining, 
but  relic  seekers  are  fast  demolishing  them. 

From  here  we  walked  to  Bethany , on  the  eastern 
slope  of  a lesser  mount,  one  and  a half  mile  distant, 
gathering  wild  flowers  of  the  most  delicate  kinds  and 
hues  that  grow  in  such  profusion  and  variety  in 
Palestine.  This  place  which  has  such  sacred  associa- 
tions is  a small  uninviting  looking  village,  but  its 
neighborhood  is  very  pretty,  abounding  in  olive,  fig, 
almond  and  pomegranate  trees.  Here  we  were  shown 
the  tomb  of  Lazarus  and  the  houses  of  Mary  Magda- 
lene and  Martha.  Remounting  our  horses  we  left 
this  hallowed  spot  for  another  at  some  distance,  at 
the  foot  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  The  Garden  of 
Gethsemane  is  surrounded  by  a high  wall  enclosing 
eight  very  old  olive-trees.  The  space  is  almost 
entirely  laid  out  in  flower-beds  and  borders  with  very 
little  taste,  and  the  Latin  monks  in  possession  dispense 
showy  bouquets  for  which  they  expect  a fee.  On  the 
opposite  side  of  the  road  we  were  shown  the  grotto 
of  Agony , and  the  Virgin's  tomb  and  chapel,  where  it 
is  said  the  virgin  lay  after  death,  and  the  assumption 
took  place.  At  all  such  places  a liberal  fee  is  ex- 
pected from  one  to  two  francs,  according  to  the  size  of 
the  party. 

Returning  towards  the  City  we  rode  around  the  south- 
eastern walls,  passing  on  the  way  the  tomb  of  Ab- 


CHURCH  OF  THE  HOLY  SEPULCHRE. 


121 


salom , and  those,  hewn  in  the  rock,  of  Zacharias , 
Jeliosophat , and  57.  James.  Ascending  the  hill  to  the 
South-West  we  reached  the  interesting  tomb  of  David , 
surrounded  with  buildings  which  detract  much  from 
the  sacredness  of  the  spot,  especially  as  it  is  in  the 
hands  of  the  Turks,  who  keep  the  place  in  a dirty 
condition.  We  were  shown  by  our  guide  a room  in 
one  of  the  buildings  in  which  he  assured  us  Christ 
dispensed  the  last  supper.  Entering  the  city  by  the 
Jaffa  Gate  beside  the  venerable  tower  of  David,  and 
escorting  the  ladies  to  our  house,  I then  made  some 
calls  at  the  Mediterranean  Hotel  to  see  friends;  after 
which  rode  out  of  the  City  again  to  the  tents  of  Mr. 
H.  A.  R.,  who  had  proposed  joining  his  party  to  ours 
in  a five  days’  excursion  around  Jerusalem,  embrac- 
ing Fools  of  Solomon , Hebron , Bethlehem , Mar-Saba , 
the  dead  Sea , the  Jordan , and  Jericho.  It  was  de- 
cided to  start  on  the  following  Monday  should  the 
weather  prove  favorable,  and  the  necessary  permits 
to  visit  the  Russian  Convent,  and  a guard  to  meet  us 
at  Mar-Saba  for  the  Dead  Sea  and  Jordan  applied  for 
at  the  Consulate. 

Sunday  the  1 7th  of  March  was  a very  fine  morning. 
From  our  house  we  could  see  the  flags  displayed  on 
all  the  Consulates.  We  all  attended  the  English 
church  service  in  the  morning,  and  in  the  afternoon 
visited  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  during  the 
service  of  the  Greek  Catholics,  presided  over  by  the 
venerable  looking  patriarch. — A description  of  this 
extensive  and  sacred  edifice  would  be  out  of  place  in 
this  merely  brief  record  of  a Tour.  Suffice  it  to  say  that 
it  stands  on  what  is  supposed  to  be  the  site  of  Calvary 
and  the  tombs  of  Joseph  and  Nicodemus,  as  also  the 


122 


LETTER  II. 


place  where  Jesus  appeared  to  his  mother  after  his 
resurrection.  Different  sects  of  Christians  have  their 
respective  chapels  within  its  walls,  that  of  the  Greeks 
being  very  richly  embellished.  The  most  sacred  place 
among  the  many  within  the  church,  is  the  Holy  Se- 
pulchre, the  tomb  itself,  which  is  of  white  marble, 
about  six  feet  square,  in  a small  room  allowing  but 
four  persons  standing  at  a time,  and  difficult  to  ap- 
proach, as  there  are  continually  poor  pilgrims  entering 
and  departing  on  their  knees,  their  eyes  bathed  in 
tears.  On  this  spot  for  nearly  sixteen  centuries,  kings, 
queens,  princes,  the  greatest  potentates  upon  earth, 
crusaders  and  pilgrims,  have  knelt  and  prayed.  No 
Christian,  be  his  creed  what  it  may,  can  approach  it 
without  being  inspired  with  awe  and  veneration. 

Our  guide,  a converted  Jew  by  the  name  of  Wein- 
thrope,  who  has  an  interesting  family  near  Max  Unger’s, 
was  desirous  to  show  us  what  few  travellers  see.  This 
was  the  extensive  quarries  under  the  City,  discovered 
accidentally  by  Doctor  Barclay,  an  American,  about 
twelve  years  ago.  These  subterranean  galleries,  huge 
in  their  proportions,  were  made,  so  it  is  said,  by  the 
Jews  in  building  the  City  and  walls  when  encompassed 
about  by  enemies.  They  extend  from  near  the  Da- 
mascus gate  to  the  Mosque  of  Omar  and  gate  of  St. 
Stephen , and  disclose  the  marks  of  the  workmens’ 
wedges,  some  of  which  remain  yet  in  their  places.  We 
found  the  excursion  a very  interesting  one,  attended 
with  no  inconvenience,  only  requiring  a guide  with 
candles.  The  Tombs  of  the  Prophets  were  next  visited, 
not  far  distant  from  the  Damascus  Gate  in  a northerly 
direction. 

On  the  day  appointed  for  our  five  days’  excursion, 


JOURNEY  TO  HEBRON. 


123 


the  weather  was  cloudy  with  a fresh  wind.  We  were 
up  early  and  prepared  to  start  by  eight  in  the  morning ; 
our  mules  loaded  with  the  baggage  and  saddle-horses 
in  the  street  ready  to  mount,  while  Mustapha  had  gone 
to  the  camping-ground  to  meet  us  outside  the  City 
with  our  tents.  It  rained  some  and  the  clouds  looked  a 
little  black  and  threatening.  I mounted  my  horse,  rode 
out  to  the  camp  of  Mr.  R.  outside  the  Jaffa  Gate,  to 
consult  about  starting,  and  got  caught  in  a shower, 
against  which  my  Macintosh  was  proof.  I found  his 
tents  struck  and  himself  and  party  waiting  the  result 
of  the  weather.  We  concluded  to  remain  awhile 
longer,  and  as  in  an  hour  the  clouds  broke, „ we  deter- 
mined to  run  the  risk  and  start  for  Solomon's  Pools , 
where  we  could  encamp  if  found  necessary  instead  of 
proceeding  to  Hebron. 

As  soon  as  I returned  to  Max  Unger’s,  we  mounted, 
and  were  joined  by  Mr.  R.  and  party,  all  leaving  by 
the  Jaffa  gate  after  a slight  inspection  there  by  the 
custom-house  officers.  Descending  the  hill  we  crossed 
a plain,  and  soon  came  to  some  large  convents  and 
hospitals.  At  Jacob's  Well  and  Rachel's  Tomb  we 
stopped  to  gather  wild  flowers,  by  which  time  the 
weather,  though  cool,  had  improved,  and  all  signs  of 
rain  disappeared.  In  two  and  a half  hours  the  Pools 
of  Solomon  were  in  sight,  and  concluding  to  stop 
here  for  lunch  only,  orders  were  sent  forward  to  our 
servants  countermanding  the  intended  encampment. 
While  taking  our  lunch  under  the  walls  of  a building 
near  the  massive  and  gigantic  reservoirs,  a party  of 
gentlemen  with  their  Dragoman,  servants,  and  baggage 
on  camels  arrived,  that  had  crossed  the  desert  from 
the  Red  Sea,  bound  to  Jerusalem.  We  all  took  a 


124 


LETTER  II. 


walk  to  inspect  the  famous  works  here  built  to  supply 
the  City  with  pure  fresh  water  contained  in  three 
basins  of  finely  constructed  masonry,  the  aggregate 
dimensions  of  whose  interiors  measure  3*/%  millions  of 
cubic  feet,  and  are  fed  by  the  mountain  streams. 

After  leaving,  we  began  to  ascend  the  steep  and 
rocky  path  of  the  mountain,  which  was  often  difficult 
to  find,  as  it  branched  off  in  several  directions,  requiring 
great  judgment  in  taking  the  right  one,  and  avoiding 
the  mud-holes  and  bad  places  among  the  rocks.  Des- 
cending to  a plain,  a shorter  path  was  visible  in  the 
valley,  which  in  dry  weather  can  be  used  instead  of 
the  circuitous  one  along  the  hills.  Continually  gaining 
a higher  altitude,  valleys  and  mountains  were  crossed 
in  slow  and  lengthened  succession,  and  wearied  with 
many  hours’  riding,  we  impatiently  looked  from  the 
summits  to  catch  a glance  of  Hebron.  Finally,  as  we 
came  to  a valley,  the  numerous  vineyards,  olive,  and 
fig-trees  which  covered  it  and  the  hillsides,  indicated 
the  approach  to  the  city  of  Father  Abraham.  We 
next  passed  along  a narrow  walled  passage  over 
mud,  stones,  and  water,  and  emerged  into  higher 
ground  in  sight  of  the  walls  of  ancient  Hebron , 
nestled  in  the  valley  on  the  sides  of  one  of  the  hills, 
opposite  to  which,  we  found,  at  six  o’clock,  our  tents 
pitched. 

As  we  rode  up,  a crowd  of  noisy  boys  were  annoying 
the  servants,  while  vendors  of  chickens,  eggs,  milk,  bread, 
&c.  were  watching  the  operations  of  Achmet  Shaheen 
at  the  kitchen  tent.  The  infidel  youths  were  soon 
dispersed , the  others  remaining  to  trade  with  the 
Dragoman  or  gaze  at  the  hated  Christians,  there  being 


ENCAMPMENT  AT  HEBRON. 


125 


none  in  Hebron.  Our  ride  of  5x/2  hours  since  lunch 
had  fatigued  us,  but  we  enjoyed  an  excellent  dinner, 
and  though  the  bright  moonlight  scene  without  was 
tempting,  soon  retired  to  rest. 


LETTER  III. 


HEBRON — TOMB  OF  ABKAHAM — THE  OAK — ENCAMP  AT 
POOLS  OF  SOLOMON — BETHLEHEM — OUR  SHEIKH 
AND  GUARD  — MAR-SABA OUR  ENCAMPMENT — DES- 
CENT TO  THE  DEAD  SEA THE  VALLEY  AND  RIVER 

OF  JORDAN ARRIVAL  AND  ENCAMPMENT  AT  JERICHO 

GREAT  HEAT RETURN  TO  JERUSALEM A STORM 

DRIVES  US  FROM  OUR  TENTS MAX  UNGER’S  HOUSE 

— LEAVE  FOR  JAFFA  — NEBU- SAMUEL LYDDA 

ENCAMP  AT  JAFFA. 


The  morning  was  calm  and  clear  with  a warm  sun. 
Having  breakfasted  early  we  rode  to  see  the  city,  the 
camping-ground  of  the  patriarchs,  the  resting-place  of 
Abraham  and  family,  and  the  oldest  city  in  the  world 
next  to  Damascus.  Our  tents  and  baggage  were  sent 
forward  while  we  entered  its  narrow  and  venerable 
streets,  and  went  to  the  great  Haram , within  whose 
walls  is  the  sacred  mosque,  or  sanctuary,  which  no 
Christian  eyes  are  permitted  to  see.  Beneath  this,  in 
the  cave  of  Machpelah,  lie  buried  Abraham,  his  wives 
Sarah  and  Rebekah,  together  with  Isaac,  Jacob,  and 


ENCAMPMENT  AT  THE  POOLS  OF  SOLOMON.  127 


Leah.  The  inhabitants  of  the  city  offered  us  no  in- 
dignity as  they  have  done  to  some  others  heretofore. 
We  noticed  the  men  and  children  were  particularly 
fine -looking,  and  that  there  were  some  Jews  in  the 
streets.  Wine  not  being  allowed  by  the  laws  of  Mo- 
hamet, the  grapes  here  are  mostly  dried,  though  they 
are  sold  in  Jerusalem,  where  good  wine  is  made  for 
sale  by  Christians. 

On  emerging  from  the  walls  of  the  city,  we  rode  to 
Abraham's  Oah,  a mile  or  two  distant,  where  we  stopped 
some  time  under  its  widespread  branches,  one  of  which 
had  been  disposed  of  last  year  to  make  into  articles 
for  sale.  Our  ride  back  to  Solomon's  Pools  was  a 
very  pleasant  one,  during  which  we  stopped  at  a 
beautiful  spot  near  an  old  ruin  for  lunch,  and  arrived 
at  4 p.  m.  at  our  camp.  The  tents,  seven  in  number 
including  those  of  Mr.  R.,  were  pitched  in  a delight- 
fus  spot  near  the  pools,  and  made  a very  pretty  ap- 
pearance from  the  hill  as  we  descended  into  the  valley. 
The  weather  was  mild,  the  temperature  being  72°  at 
5 p.  m.,  but  falling  to  50  during  the  night.  A pleasant 
walk,  dinner,  a bright  moonlight  evening,  and  a good 
night’s  rest  were  enjoyed  successively. 

The  weather  was  calm  and  clear  when  we  rose  at 
six,  breakfasted  at  seven,  and  were  both  parties  all 
punctually  in  our  saddles,  with  the  tents  struck  and 
baggage  on  the  mules  at  eight,  for  Mar -Saba,  via 
Bethlehem.  Passing  the  pools,  we  rode  along  the  rough 
sides  of  the  mountain  beside  the  water  aqueduct  with 
a view  beneath  us  of  a lovely  valley  with  very  finely 
cultivated  gardens  of  fruit  and  vegetables  raised  for 
the  Jerusalem  market.  A pleasant  and  romantic  ride 
brought  us  in  an  hour  and  a half  to  the  Birthplace 


128 


LETTER  III. 


of  our  Savior.  This  town,  unlike  Hebron,  is  inhabited 
by  Christians,  who  have  it  in  their  possession  by  treaty 
with  Turkey.  Its  outward  appearance  indicates  the 
difference  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  two  cities,  this 
looking  more  fresh  and  European.  We  rode  through 
the  town  and  dismounted  at  the  Church  of  the  Nativity , 
in  possession  of  the  Greek  church,  where  we  were 
beset  by  Jews  and  Christians  to  purchase  mother-of- 
pearl  rosaries  and  sculptured  religious  pieces,  the  im- 
portunate vendors  even  following  us  into  the  sanctuary. 
We  had  them  expelled,  and  were  permitted  to  pene- 
trate and  inspect  the  walls  and  cells  of  this  really 
impressive  and  interesting  place  without  interruption. 

This  church,  surrounded  by  the  Greek,  Latin,  and 
Armenian  convents,  is  the  oldest  in  the  world.  It  was 
erected  by  Helena  in  the  year  A.  D.  327.  The  ceiling 
is  made  from  the  cedars  of  Lebanon.  We  descended 
into  the  crypt  of  the  chapel,  the  floor  and  walls  of 
which  are  of  marble  and  lighted  by  40  gold  and  silver 
lamps  presented  by  different  sovereigns  of  Europe. 
At  the  eastern  end  is  a silver  star  at  an  altar,  around 
which  are  the  words  in  Latin  uHere  Christ  tv  as  horn 
of  the  V ir gin  Mary”  Near  by  is  a recess  in  the  rock 
in  which  is  a block  of  marble  hollowed  out  to  repre- 
sent the  manger.  All  the  surroundings  are  of  the 
richest  gold  and  silver  ornaments  with  precious  stones. 
The  velvet  hangings  of  the  altar  of  the  place  of  na- 
tivity is  entirely  covered  over  with  figures  of  the  virgin 
and  child,  apostolic  pictures  and  angels,  the  faces  of 
whom  are  of  fine  enamel  with  robes  of  pure  gold 
studded  with  diamonds,  rubies,  emeralds  and  pearls. 
At  regular  distances  between  the  pictures  are  about 
forty  stars,  richly  worked  in  threads  of  gold  with  dia- 


FROM  BETHLEHEM  TO  MAR-SABA. 


129 


mond  centres  and  ruby  and  emerald  points.  Sixteen 
of  the  centre  stones  nearest  within  reach  had  been 
stolen!  We  descended  into -the  grotto  of  St.  Jerome 
where  he  spent  the  greater  part  of  his  life,  and  next 
saw  the  altar  of  the  innocents,  20,000  of  whom  were 
buried  here  after  the  massacre  by  Herold. 

Leaving  the  church  we  were  again  beset  by  the 
venders  of  articles  made  from  mother-of-pearl,  stone 
and  wood  finely  carved,  from  whom  we  made  several 
purchases  and  then  gladly  effected  our  escape  followed 
by  some  of  them  a considerable  distance.  At  the  base 
of  the  hill  we  were  joined  by  an  Arab  Sheikh  well 
mounted  and  armed,  and  a guard  of  eight  men  on 
foot  poorly  equipped,  with  old  flint  lock  muskets.  They 
had  been  engaged  at  Jerusalem  as  customary,  to  at- 
tend us  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan  for  pro- 
tection against  the  wandering  tribes  of  Bedouin  Arabs 
who  plunder  and  rob  when  a chance  presents.  They 
inhabit  the  country  mostly  bordering  on  the  east  side 
of  the  Dead  Sea  and  Jordan  on  the  plains  of  Moab. 
As  we  wended  our  way  we  frequently  stopped  to  cull 
some  of  the  beautiful  wild  flowers  which  grow  in  pro- 
fusion near  the  city,  among  them  the  well-known  star 
of  Bethlehem.  At  a convenient  spot  we  stopped  to 
lunch,  and  continued  our  ride  over  a wild,  moun- 
tainous, stony  and  sandy  country,  with  only  a few 
stunted  bushes  here  and  there,  and  not  a house  or 
any  living  creature  in  sight  but  those  in  our  leng- 
thened caravan  of  nine  Christians  with  twenty -nine 
arab  attendants.  Some  of  the  valleys  looked  fearfully 
deep  below  us,  but  our  well-trained  and  careful  horses 
gave  us  confidence,  and  the  most  remarkable  scenery 
of  this  wild  region  was  much  enjoyed  for  its  novelty. 

9 


130 


LETTER  III. 


At  three  o’clock  we  arrived  at  the  immense  struc- 
ture of  the  Russian  Convent  of  Mar -Saba,  situated 
in  the  wild  gorge  of  the  mpuntains,  looking  with  its 
high  towers,  walls,  buttresses  and  gates,  like  a strong- 
hold or  fortress.  It  was  thus  constructed ' to  protect 
the  monks  from  the  incursions  of  the  wild  Bedouins. 
Having  a special  permit  from  the  Grand  Patriarch  of 
the  Greek  church  at  Jerusalem,  it  was  put  into  a 
basket  which  was  lowered  from  the  tower  eighty  feet 
above  us,  and  then  the  gate  was  opened  for  the 
gentlemen  only,  women  never  being  admitted.  We 
entered,  leaving  the  ladies  to  take  shelter  from  the 
hot  sun  under  an  arched  wall.  In  the  chapel  forty 
monks  ranged  on  either  side  were  at  service.  We 
were  shown  over  the  different  buildings  rising  one 
above  another,  the  hospital,  belfry  and  others,  also 
a pretty  flower  and  vegetable  garden ; then  ascended 
the  tower  250  steps  high  from  the  lowest  part  o- 
the  building  and  commanding  a very  fine  view.  Desf 
cending  again  to  the  court-yard,  we  made  some  pur- 
chases of  articles  manufactured  by  the  monks  and 
after  visited  the  grotto  curiously  cut  out  in  the  sides 
of  the  rocky  promontory  in  which  lived  and  died  a 
celebrated  and  sainted  monk.  Refreshing  ourselves  from 
a never-failing  fountain  of  running  water  in  the  chapel 
and  declining  other  refreshments  which,  as  also  lodg- 
ings, are  offered  travellers  without  tents,  we  took 
leave,  and  found  the  ladies  already  gone  to  our  camp 
two  miles  distant.  A fine  road  led  us  into  the  deep 
valley  a thousand  feet  below,  where  our  tents  were 
pitched  within  a half-mile  of  those  of  some  Bedouins. 
After  the  rest  of  the  party  had  retired  the  Doctor 
and  myself  strolled  about  the  camp,  and  were  enter- 


THE  DEAD  SEA. 


131 


tained  with  a dance  by  our  guard,  which  cost  us  some 
of  the  inevitable  backsheesh. 

The  morning  was  clear  and  calm  with  a tempera- 
ture of  64°  at  sunrise.  Our  two  parties  were  ready 
mounted  at  the  fixed  hour  of  eight,  for  starting  on 
the  long-dreaded  and  hard  day’s  journey  to  the  Dead 
Sea,  by  a steep  descent  of  5000  feet,  thence  to  the 
river  Jordan  and  Jericho,  a ride  of  ten  hours.  As  we 
wended  our  way  over  the  desolate  hills,  our  caravan 
made  an  imposing  appearance,  consisting  of  28  indi- 
viduals and  35  horses  and  mules.  After  long  winding 
descents,  following  the  course  of  a mountain  torrent, 
we  came  to  the  low  country  of  the  Jordan  and  Dead 
Sea,  reaching  the  latter  about  noon.  Situated  between 
mountains,  it  is  nearly  fifty  miles  in  length  by  seven- 
teen in  breath,  and  lies  4000  feet  below  Jerusalem, 
or  1300  feet  lower  than  the  Mediterranean. 

While  some  of  the  party  were  strolling  along  the 
shores  of  this  wonderfully  salt  lake,  others  went  off 
with  the  guard,  and  enjoyed  a refreshing  bath  in  it. 
The  water  is  extremely  buoyant  and  is  as  salt  as  that 
of  St.  Catharine’s  Wells  in  Canada  West.  From  here 
the  ride  across  the  plains  of  Jordan,  now  barren  and 
sandy,  was  an  excessively  hot  one,  and  after  an  hour’s 
discomfort,  we  gladly  welcomed  near  the  river  the  first 
trees  we  had  seen  for  two  days.  Under  their  shade 
we  found  reclining  two  other  parties  from  Jerusalem 
via  Jericho , taking  what  we  all  needed , rest  and 
lunch.  While  here  I was  joined  by  others  in  taking 
a bath  in  the  turbid  waters  of  the  Jordan  relieving 
us  of  the  salt  of  the  Dead  Sea,  while  some  contented 
themselves  with  dipping  their  hands  and  faces  in  the 
sacred  river. 


9* 


132 


LETTER  III. 


Having  filled  our  tin  cans  brought  for  the  purpose 
with  its  waters,  and  getting  some  sticks  of  the  willow, 
we  mounted  our  horses  for  a two  hours’  ride  across 
the  plain  to  Jericho,  where  we  arrived  about  6 p.  m. 
Our  tents,  which  had  been  sent  forward  by  a shorter 
route  after  leaving  Mar-Saba,  we  found  pitched  in  a 
pleasant  spot  beside  a running  stream,  outside  the  old 
town.  The  thermometer  at  that  hour  stood  at  84° 
in  the  shade! 

The  morning  was  calm,  clear  and  very  hot,  the  mer- 
cury at  7 A.  m.  being  70°  outside  in  the  shade.  We 
rose  early  and  left  at  eight  o’clock  in  company  with 
two  other  parties  that  we  met  at  the  Jordan,  and  had 
encamped  near  us.  A rough  and  long  ascent  of  the 
montains  was  to  be  made,  we  being  5300  feet  below 
Jerusalem.  The  path  being  the  worst  we  had  seen,  and 
fortunately  was  to  be  ascended  instead  of  descended, 
proving  our  reversing  the  order  of  our  five  days’  jour- 
ney to  have  been  a wise  one,  as  the  dreaded  descent 
of  Mar-Saba  was  not  as  bad  as  represented.  The  heat 
of  the  sun  became  so  intense  we  had  to  employ  all 
means  to  keep  off  the  burning  rays.  Before  eleven 
o’clock  we  were  glad  to  obtain  the  shelter  of  some 
old  walls  where  there  was  a well,  and  rested  and 
lunched  on  the  shady  side  remaining  there  two  hours. 
During  the  next  three  or  four  hours  the  heat  nearly 
alike  on  mountain  as  in  valley  — there  being  no  air 
stirring — became  so  insupportable  that  we  took  shelter 
beside  an  old  ruin.  We  were  near  Bethany,  whose 
heights  we  began  to  ascend  as  the  sun  declined  behind 
the  western  hills  before  us,  and  from  their  summits 
continued  our  way  around  the  Mount  of  Olives,  passing 
the  garden  of  Gethsemane,  the  valley,  and  by  the  walls 


A THUNDERSTORM  AT  JERUSALEM. 


133 


of  Jerusalem  on  the  north  side  to  our  tents,  ready  for 
us  with  the  usual  promptness.  The  party  of  Mr.  R. 
had  left  us  at  the  last  stopping  place,  and  were  en- 
camped on  the  Mount  of  Olives.  Our  Sheikh  and  his 
rfien  had  been  paid  off,  and  took  their  leave  of  each 
of  us  before  reaching  Bethany. 

While  sitting  at  table,  dining,  I was  suddenly  seized 
with  the  symptoms  of  a sun-stroke,  and  left  imme- 
diately for  my  tent,  where  I threw  myself  on  the  bed, 
drank  freely  of  brandy,  had  a jug  of  hot  water  placed 
to  my  feet,  cold  applications  to  my  head,  and  was 
entirely  free  in  the  morning  from  the  effects  of  the 
hottest  day  I ever  experienced.  The  rest  of  the  party 
suffered  no  such  consequences,  having  used  white  um- 
brellas which  I had  not. 

The  morning  of  the  23rd  was  very  warm,  the  clouds 
and  wind  from  the  S.  W.  threatening  rain.  Before 
noon  the  thermometer  rose  to  90°  in  the  shade.  Some 
of  us  went  into  the  city  to  make  purchases  of  photo- 
graphs, &c.  While  here  we  met  our  friends  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  H.,  who  had  arrived  from  Egypt,  with  their  Dra- 
goman and  tents  during  our  absence,  and  our  pleasant 
voyages  on  the  Nile  were  talked  over  and  contrasted 
with  the  “hard  road  of  Jordan.”  The  weather  was 
showery  in  the  afternoon  and  in  the  evening  we  had 
a thunder-storm.  Soon  after  midnight  it  commenced 
blowing,  accompanied  with  a heavy  rain,  thunder,  and 
lightning.  All  of  us  had  to  bestir  ourselves  to  keep 
our  beds  and  luggage  from  getting  wet,  while  El  Adli, 
Mustapha,  and  the  servants,  were  keeping  the  tents 
secure  outside. 

The  following  day  the  wind  and  rain  continuing, 
and  our  tents  being  in  a wet  condition , we  resolved 


134 


LETTER  III. 


to  quit  them  and  take  up  our  old  quarters  in  Max 
Unger’s  house,  should  they  he  vacant.  This  was 
somewhat  doubtful  as  the  hotels  were  overflowing  with 
travellers,  mostly  Americans,  wo  had  left  their  tents 
in  consequence  of  the  bad  weather.  The  apartments 
were  found  vacant  and  engaged  immediately,  not  any 
too  soon,  as  they  were  applied  for  in  ten  minutes 
afterwards.  By  nine  o’clock  the  ladies  were  conveyed 
to  our  excellent  quarters,  sitting  around  a stove  to 
dry  their  garments,  and  soon  were  refreshed  by  a 
substantial  breakfast  prepared  by  our  own  servants 
and  cook.  We  had  a visit  from  some  Nile  friends  in 
the  evening  who  had  to  recount  stories  of  tents  blown 
down,  of  ladies  who  had  to  seek  shelter  in  coffee- 
shops  the  preceding  night,  which  quite  reconciled  us 
to  the  discomforts  we  had  undergone. 

We  had  determined  as  part  of  our  plan,  to  have 
started  the  next  day  for  Jaffa,  there  to  embark  for 
Beyrout  by  steamer,  where  we  could  be  in  easy  reach 
of  Damascus,  instead  of  taking  the  usual  long  route 
to  the  latter  city  by  way  of  Nablous,  Samaria,  Jenin, 
Nazareth,  Mt.  Tiberias,  Capernaum,  Safed  and  Banias, 
which  requires  at  least  ten  days  of  consecutive  tra- 
velling with  tents.  This  is  a great  objection  should 
the  weather  prove  bad,  but  if  the  traveller  desires 
particularly  to  extend  his  tent  life  and  see  the  places 
named  in  the  foregoing  route,  he  had  better  defer 
visiting  Syria  to  a later  period  in  spring,  though  it 
is  said  the  rains  came  later  this  year  than  usual. 

The  weather  appearing  unsettled  and  our  tents  wet, 
determined  us  to  wait  in  Jerusalem  another  day,  which 
allowed  us  time  to  visit  the  shops,  make  calls,  and 
write  some  letters.  The  morning  was  fair  and  as  pre- 


ON  THE  ROAD  TO  JAFFA. 


135 


parations  had  been  made  the  evening  previous  to  take 
advantage  of  it,  we  were  all  ready  in  our  saddles  and 
started  at  eight  o’clock  for  Jaffa,  via  Nebu-  Samuel 
and  Bethoron.  Leaving  by  the  Damascus  gate,  we 
bid  adieu  to  the  old  grey  walls  of  Jerusalem  for  ever, 
and  met  our  baggage  and  tents  under  the  charge  of 
Mustapha  who  led  the  way,  while  El  Adli  remained 
as  usual  with  us  to  look  after  the  comfort  of  the 
ladies.  After  a long  circuitous  ascent  we  reached  the 
top  of  Nebu-Samuel,  from  which  we  obtained  a fine 
view  of  the  plain  of  Gibeon  and  surrounding  country. 
It  was  here  that  the  leaders  of  the  crusade  stopped 
over  night  before  their  attack  on  Jerusalem. 

Descending,  we  reached  a spot  near  Gibeon  where 
we  lunched,  and  then  proceeded  on  till  we  reached 
New  Bethoron,  where  El  Adli  expected  to  find  our 
tents  pitched.  We  found  none  there  and  were  appre- 
hensive we  should  have  to  go  to  Lydda  for  them,  a 
much  longer  ride  then  we  cared  to  take  as  it  was 
getting  late.  A little  farther  on  we  espied  them  in  a 
valley  two  miles  distant,  and  on  arriving,  learned  that 
this  spot  had  been  wisely  selected  as  a much  better 
one  for  encamping. 

The  following  morning  was  cloudy  and  weather  com- 
fortable^  with  the  wind  from  a fair  quarter,  and  having 
an  easy  journey  before  us,  we  started  at  ten  o’clock 
for  Jaffa.  Our  course  was  over  gently  undulating  hills 
until  we  reached  the  pretty-appearing  town  of  Lydcla , 
surrounded  with  luxuriant  fields,  and  standing  on  an 
eminence  crowned  with  olive  and  other  trees.  Ramleh, 
our  first  camping  ground,  was  in  sight  a few  miles 
off  on  the  other  route  to  Jerusalem.  Passing  through 
the  filthy  streets  of  the  town,  we  came  to  the  pretty 


136 


LETTER  III. 


ruins  of  the  Church  of  St.  George , supposed  to  have 
been  built  by  Richard  Coeur-de-Lion.  The  gentlemen 
there  ascended  the  minaret  tower  of  a Moslem  mosque 
where  a fine  view  was  had.  It  was  in  this  town  that 
Peter  performed  the  miracle  of  curing  Eneas  (Acts  ix. 
32  — 35).  Our  lunch  was  spread  a short  distance 
outside  the  town  under  some  large  trees,  and  after  a 
brief  stay  we  resumed  our  journey.  On  approaching 
Jaffa  the  air  was  redolent  with  the  perfume  of  orange 
blossoms  from  the  extensive  groves  through  which  we 
rode  for  nearly  two  miles,  when  we  emerged  into  the 
market-place  outside  of  the  city  near  the  Jerusalem 
gate.  Proceeding  along  the  outer  walls  southerly  to 
the  quarantine  hill,  we  found  our  tents  pitched  there 
and  ready  for  us  at  five  o’clock.  From  this  spot  a 
fine  view  of  the  sea  was  had.  as  also  of  the  city  and 
the  Jaffa  Colony  about  a mile  distant.  Having  hoisted 
the  American  flag  on  the  highest  branch  of  a tree  we 
dined  and  retired  to  rest. 


LETTER  IV. 


THE  AMERICAN  COLONY  AT  JAFFA RAIN  AGAIN 

LEAVE  TENTS  FOR  THE  CONVENT EMBARK  FOR 

BEYROUT — ARRIVAL — THE  CITY — RIDE  TO  DAMASCUS 

IN  DILIGENCE — DEMETRl’s  HOTEL VISIT  TO  CONSUL 

THE  BAZAARS  — VIEW  OF  CITY  FROM  SALINEH 

VISIT  TO  MRS.  DIGBY LEAVE  DAMASCUS. 


The  morning  was  cloudy,  and  the  wind  from  the 
east  soon  after  changed  to  S.S.W.  After  having  called 
on  the  Vice  Consul,  Mr.  Loewenthal,  we  took  a walk 
to  the  American  Colony,  a short  distance  from  the 
city  walls,  to  see  it  for  ourselves > having  heard  so 
many  conflicting  opinions  and  statements  concerning 
its  condition.  Mr.  Bidwell  as  has  been  mentioned,  had 
been  here  to  make  a report  to  Secretary  Seward,  with 
what  result  I know  not.  It  seemed  to  me  that  the 
published  reports  of  the  sickness  and  deaths  had  been 
exaggerated,  as  on  refering  to  the  register  at  the  Con- 
sulate, there  had  been,  out  of  the  whole  number  of 
156  who  landed  in  October  to  the  present  time,  only 
14  deaths,  and  four  of  these  were  adults  of  over 
38  years  of  age.  Nine  of  the  children  were  under 


138 


LETTER  IY. 


three  years,  the  other  one  eight  years  old.  No  deaths 
had  occurred  for  the  last  four  months. 

We  found  the  village  looking  quite  like  a Western 
one  just  settled  by  New  England  emigrants.  It  had 
a group  of  wood  dwellings  mostly  without  clapboards 
on  their  walls,  among  them  the  frame  of  a large  three- 
story  building,  being  erected  for  a hotel,  and  conspic- 
uous for  its  size  and  superiority,  a nice-looking  finished 
house,  occupied  by  the  temporal  and  spiritual  leader 
of  the  colony,  Elder  Adams.  We  called  upon  him  and 
found  his  wife  to  be  an  extraordinary  strongminded 
woman,  possessing  a large  share  of  ambition  and  Yan- 
kee “smartness.”  They  gave  us  a very  favorable  ac- 
count of  the  condition  and  prospects  of  the  colony, 
excepting,  as  they  stated,  there  were  without  reason 
a very  few  indolent  or  discontented  ones. 

Our  visit  to  some  of  the  disaffected  families  convinced 
us  there  were  two  sides  to  the  question.  They  ap- 
peared to  be  very  honest,  simpleminded  and  indus- 
trious. Their  dwellings  evinced  a neatness,  and  the  per- 
sonal appearance  of  the  grown-up  sons  and  daughters 
was  highly  creditable  to  the  New  England  character. 
A careful  inquiry  led  us  to  the  conclusion  that  nearly 
half  of  the  colony  were  disappointed  in  their  ex- 
pectations , and  were  unreconcilably  opposed  to , and 
divided  from,  those  who  wished  with  Mr.  Adams  to 
remain.  Their  several  stories  agreed  and  led  to  the 
same  conclusion;  and  as  “a  house  divided  against  itself 
cannot  stand,”  it  seemed  to  us  better  for  the  opposing 
parties  to  separate,  those  wishing  to  leave  to  be  pro- 
vided with  the  necessary  means  of  doing  so. 

While  doubtless  a flourishing  and  united  colony  of 
Christians  here  so  near  Jerusalem,  might,  under  proper 


DEPARTURE  FROM  JAFFA. 


139 


direction,  be  a very  desirable  object  for  the  good  in- 
fluences it  would  give  to  the  Christian  cause,  which 
is  rapidly  gaining  ground  in  Syria,  especially  at  Bey- 
rout,  it  is  very  important  that  the  unhappy  dissensions 
among  those  of  Jaffa  should  speedily  cease. 

The  return  to  our  camp  at  five  o’clock  was  just 
in  time  to  escape  a shower,  and  our  tents  were  again 
drenched.  The  rain  continued  for  two  hours,  at  the 
end  of  which  time  the  Vice-Consul  called  by  appoint- 
ment, and  as  we  were  to  take  the  steamer  the  following 
morning,  and  a rainy  night  in  prospect,  we  concluded 
to  leave  for  the  hotel  or  convent.  A muddy  walk 
brought  us  to  the  former,  which  finding  quite  full,  we 
were  accompanied  by  the  Consul  to  our  old  quarters, 
the  Latin  Convent,  where  we  were  accommodated  for 
the  night.  By  the  invitation  of  Mr.  Loewenthal,  in 
company  with  one  of  the  gentlemen  of  our  party,  I 
accompanied  him  to  his  house  near  by,  where  we  found 
his  wife,  and  Mrs.  R.  of  Boston  their  guest,  and  had 
a pleasant  hour’s  conversation. 

The  following  morning,  which  was  a calm  and  cloudy 
one , I rose  very  early  before  the  nearest  gates  were 
opened,  and  went  out  to  our  camp  T>y  the  Jerusalem 
gate  to  have  our  luggage  and  all  hands  on  board  the 
Austrian  Steamer,  which  was  to  leave  for  Beyrout 
at  9 o’clock  A.  m.  Our  tents  being  too  wet  to  pack, 
it  was  arranged  that  they  should  follow  us  with  the 
servants  by  the  French  steamer  to  leave  in  the  after- 
noon. El  Adli  accompanied  us  on  board  at  the  hour, 
and  the  transit  to  the  “Pluto”  was  in  happy  contrast 
to  the  one  when  we  landed  here.  There  were  many 
other  Americans,  and  as  the  weather  soon  cleared  off 
finely,  our  short  passage  promised  to  be  a pleasant 


140 


LETTER  IV. 


one.  The  coast  view  was  very  beautiful  and  at  Caiffa, 
near  mount  Carmel  we  stopped  a short  time  to  land 
passengers.  The  day  continued  fine  and  The  night  was 
a quiet  one  on  the  steamer,  except  about  three  o’clock 
A.  m.  when  she  dropped  anchor  at  Beyrout. 

The  view  which  greeted  us  on  going  on  deck  the 
next  morning  was  a very  lovely  one.  The  weather, 
calm  and  fine,  afforded  us  an  excellent  opportunity  of 
seeing  to  advantage  the  beautiful  panorama  of  the  city 
with  the  hills  around  it,  and  the  Mountains  of  Lebanon 
in  the  distance,  their  summits  tipped  with  snow,  and 
their  sides,  with  the  intervening  valleys,  clothed  with 
the  foliage  of  the  mulberry,  grape,  fig  and  olive  trees. 
There  are  many  fine  houses  in  the  suburbs  surrounded 
with  gardens,  which  impart  an  additional  beauty  to 
the  scene. 

We  landed  at  the  custom-house,  where  the  usual 
examination  takes  place,  and  where  my  passport,  which 
I had  not  shown  since  leaving  France,  was  asked  for. 
I referred  them,  as  I had  done  before  in  the  Turkish 
and  Egyptian  dominions,  to  the  American  Consul,  as 
I knew  they  had  no  right  to  see  it.  At  the  “Hotel 
d’Orient,”  kept  by  Nicolas  Bassoul,  we  were  very  com- 
fortably lodged,  and  found  his  table  an  excellent  one, 
so  much  so,  that  we  decided  to  lay  aside  tents  awhile, 
if  not  finally.  Our  first  object  was  to  engage  places 
to  and  from  Damascus  in  the  diligence  at  the  bureau 
of  the  French  Company  who  have  built  at  a heavy 
expense  a most  perfect  road  over  the  Lebanon  Moun- 
tains, and  take  passengers  through  in  12  hours.  Places 
were  secured  for  the  desired  days  in  the  coupe  and 
imperial  for  our  party,  and  one  in  the  interieur  for 
our  Dragoman;  it  having  been  arranged  as  a part  of 


BEYROUT. 


1 41 


our  programma  to  visit  Baalbec  from  Stoura  (the  half- 
way station  on  the  road)  on  our  return  from  Damascus, 
meeting  there  our  servants  and  horses  for  the  trip  to 
and  from  Baalbec.  As  accommodations  for  a night 
at  both  places  could  be  obtained,  our  tents  might  be 
dispensed  with , and  the  necessary  provisions , &c., 
brought  on  a mule;  saving  time,  trouble,  and  the  risk 
of  rain  in  the  valley  between  the  two  ranges  of  the 
* Lebanon  in  which  our  route  lay. 

We  found  rumours  prevailing  here  of  an  intended 
massacre  of  the  Christians  in  Damascus,  and  many 
families  of  the  natives,  remembering  the  dreadful  one 
of  1861,  were  already  fleeing  hither  from  there.  We 
were  however  assured  by  our  Consul,  Mr.  Johnson, 
since  appointed  Consul-General,  that  there  was  no 
danger.  The  excitement  there  against  the  Christians 
was  caused  by  a proclamation  in  relation  to  the 
wounded  Turks  fighting  in  Candia;  and  the  governor 
afterwards  neutralized  it  by  another  one  issued  by  the 
intervention  and  at  the  urgent  demand  of  the  foreign 
Consuls,  which  calmed  the  inflamed  passions  of  the 
Mohammedans. 

While  awaiting  three  days  our  time  of  departure, 
we  visited  the  bazaars  and  many  interesting  places 
in  and  about  the  city.  It  has  a population  of  about 
50,000  mostly  Christians,  who  have  embellished  it; 
and  a large  trade  with  Europe  and  Syria  give  it  the 
aspect  of  a European  city.  Its  growth  has  been  rapid 
the  last  few  years,  and  there  are  many  excellent  insti- 
tutions, one  of  which  we  visited  and  should  be  seen  by 
all  Americans  stopping  here.  The  School  of  the  Ameri- 
can Mission , established  four  years  since,  is  a model 
one  and  within  a year  has  been  removed  to  the 


142 


LETTEK  IV. 


spacious  new  building  erected  for  the  purpose  and 
occupying  a fine  and  conspicuous  site.  Miss  Gregory, 
jb  young  hative,  has  done  a vast  amount  of  labor  in 
organizing  and  getting  the  school  into  its  present  per- 
fect condition,  under  the  supervision  of  Mr.  Jessup 
and  his  assistant.  The  eighty  scholars  went  through 
their  exercises  for  us,  singing  in  Arabic  and  English 
exceedingly  well. 

The  weather  remained  fine,  and  the  temperature 
very  equal,  varying  but  little  the  three  days  from  70° 
at  night  to  75°  during  the  day.  The  sabbath  spent 
here  was  a quiet  one; — most  of  the  shops  being  closed 
except  in  the  Turkish  quarter.  The  soldiers  seemed 
to  make  it  a holiday,  playing  various  games  in  the 
great  square.  The  market  was  well  supplied  with  new 
marrowfat  peas,  beans,  potatoes,  vegetable  marrow, 
squashes,  lettuce,  radishes,  celery,  &c.  During  the 
third  day  we  tried  our  horses  hired  for  our  Baalbec 
excursion,  and  rode  out  to  the  forest  of  young  pines 
near  which  a regiment  of  Turkish  infantry  was  en- 
camped for  the  night  on  its  way  to  Damascus. 

Our  obliging  landlord  called  us.  long  before  day- 
break, and  had  a hot  breakfast  ready,  which  for- 
tified us  for  the  diligence  ride.  He  accompanied  us 
with  El  Adli  to  the  office,  where  our  luggage  was 
weighed  and  the  overweight  of  25lbs.  allowance  to 
each  person  paid  for.  Punctually  at  four  o’clock  we 
started  with  a full  complement  of  14  passengers.  The 
morning  was  pleasant  and  our  ascent  of  Mt.  Lebanon 
over  this  fine  Macadamized  road,  well  graded  by  a 
skilful  engineer,  was  easily  done  with  four  horses,  which 
were  changed  about  every  two  hours.  As  we  neared 
the  highest  summit  of  the  road,  in  b1/^  hours  from 


ARRIVAL  AT  DAMASCUS. 


143 


starting,  the  wild  hyacinth  with  its  purple  blossoms 
perfumed  the  air  now  grown  quite  cold  from  the 
vicinity  of  snow.  Our  descent. was  a very  rapid  one 
over  the  winding  and  gradually  descending  grade.  A 
fine  view  of  Gebeleh  Sheikh,  the  highest  Mountain  in 
Syria  was  had,  with  its  summit  covered  with  a heavy 
body  of  snow.  Before  noon  we  reached  Stoura,  where 
El  Adli  served  on  the  banks  of  a stream,  by  the  little 
French  restaurant,  a lunch  from  his  canteen,  though 
we  might  have  obtained  a tolerable  breakfast,  had  we 
wished,  in  the  house. 

After  crossing  the  plains,  we  ascended  and  passed 
through  a romantic  gorge  of  the  Anti-Lebanon  range, 
and  then  along  beside  the  running  stream  the  Barada, 
which  supplies  Damascus  with  pure  water.  Emerging 
into  a valley,  the  minarets  of  the  city  appeared,  while 
its  buildings  were  mostly  veiled  from  view  by  the 
surrounding  groves.  At  six  o’clock  the  sound  of  the 
bugle  from  our  lively  conductor,  and  the  crack  of  the 
whip  of  the  postilion,  announced  our  arrival  at  the 
entrance  of  the  famed  City  of  TJz , who  was  the  grand- 
son of  Noah  and  founded  it.  We  were  soon  comfort- 
ably lodged  in  the  only  hotel  of  the  place,  the  Locancla 
Melluk , kept  by  Demetri,  a Greek.  It  was  well  filled, 
there  being  over  thirty  Americans,  a part  of  whom 
were  to  leave  the  next  day  for  their  tents  en  route 
to  Baalbec  and  Beyrout.  All  had  come  from  Jerusalem 
“overland”  and  experienced  considerable  rainy  weather; 
among  them  some  of  our  old  friends  just  arrived  who 
had  left  there  before  us.  The  wares  and  silk  stuffs 
of  “Old  Antique”  were  in  the  evening  displayed  as 
usual  in  the  recess  which  opened  into  the  court  of 
the  hotel  with  its  fountain  and  orange  trees.  The 


144 


LETTER  IV. 


sayings  and  doings  of  this  eccentric  oriental  pedlar 
amused  us  much. 

The  morning  of  the  third  of  April  succeeding  our 
arrival  was  very  fine,  and  the  mercury  at  70°.  It 
was  improved  by  taking  a walk  in  the  market,  and 
seeing  two  parties  numbering  18  start  off  with  their 
camp  equipage  for  Baalbec;  after  which  we  visited 
the  Great  Mosque , with  its  three  minarets,  one  of 
which  we  ascended.  From  here  we  went  by  special 
permission  to  the  harem  of  a wealthy  merchant,  the 
interior  of  which  the  ladies  saw  with  some  of  its  fair 
inmates,  while  the  gentlemen  waited  in  the  coffee  and 
smoking  room.  Some  richly  furnished  houses  belonging 
to  Jews  were  next  visited.  One  of  them  contained 
several  generations  of  the  same  family,  with  a large 
nursery  of  young  children  living  together;  the  saloons 
and  apartments  seen  were  richly  decorated  and  furnished. 

The  following  day  the  horse -market  was  visited 
early  in  the  morning,  where  among  about  fifty  horses, 
some  of  the  wildest  had  to  be  caught  with  the  lasso. 
It  took  several  strong  men  to  hold  one  when  caught. 
At  the  invitation  of  Mr.  Mechaka  our  Consul,  who  sent 
his  cavasse  for  us,  the  gentlemen  of  our  party  paid 
him  a visit.  The  veteran  representative  of  the  Great 
Republic  is  a wealthy  Syrian  Christian,  formerly  a 
physician,  is  a large  fine-looking  man  and  occupies  an 
elegant,  richly  decorated  and  furnished  house  with  a 
fine  garden  attached.  He  welcomed  us  very  warmly, 
and  with  one  of  his  sons,  who  spoke  French  and  Eng- 
lish, entertained  us  with  pipes,  coffee,  and  sweetmeats. 
From  him  we  learnt  that  during  the  great  massacre 
of  1861  he  was  struck  down  with  the  blow  of  a sword 
on  the  forehead,  the  singular  effects  of  which  he  was 


DAMASCUS. 


145 


just  in  part  getting  over,  it  having  deprived  him  of 
the  sense  of  smelling  some  things,  while  others  were 
so  obnoxious  that  he  had  lived  five  years  without 
meat  and  most  kinds  of  vegetables  and  fruit.  The 
remainder  of  the  day  was  spent  in  making  purchases  in 
the  bazaars,  most  of  which  are  situated  in  “ the  street 
that  is  called  Straight .” 

A part  of  the  following  day  being  rainy,  I went 
with  El  Adli  to  the  bazaars.  It  being  the  moslem 
sabbath,  the  covered  streets  of  this  great  resort  were 
thronged  with  crowds  of  people  from  the  country, 
curious  to  behold.  The  numerous  cook-shops  were  well 
patronized  by  them,  and  the  manner  of  cooking  and 
dispensing  strange  dishes  was  exceedingly  novel  and 
interesting.  Two  parties  from  Jerusalem  arrived  “over- 
land,” among  them  our  old  companions  of  the  five 
days’  journey,  who  had  experienced  a hard  time,  and 
glad  to  enjoy  the  comforts  of  a hotel  again. 

The  rain  next  day  ceasing  awhile,  we  took  a ride 
on  donkeys  to  the  heights  of  Salineh,  where  a fine 
view  of  the  city  was  had.  Damascus,  surrounded  by 
hills  and  situated  in  a valley,  is  set  with  a deep  fringe 
of  the  dark  foliage  of  its  surrounding  groves  and 
gardens,  giving  it  a very  picturesque  appearance.  It 
is  called  the  oldest  city  in  the  world,  dating  back 
over  4000  years,  and  considered  in  its  aspect,  the 
most  oriental.  The  inhabitants  number  over  160,000, 
five  - sixths  of  whom  are  Mohammedans,  the  rest 
Christians  (mostly  native)  and  Jews.  There  are  about 
400  public  cook-shops,  200  mosques,  eight  synagogues, 
and  eight  convents  and  churches.  The  Christians,  Jews 
and  Turks,  inhabit  separate  quarters  of  the  city,  and 
the  gates  are  closed  at  sunset. 


10 


146 


LETTER  IV. 


Having  sent  our  cards  to  the  “Honorable  Mrs. 
Digby”,  an  hour  was  assigned  by  her  to  receive  us, 
and  accordingly  we  improved  it  to  see  this  remarkable 
woman,  whose  life  has  been  so  checkered  a one.  A 
daughter  of  Admiral  Digby,  and  of  extraordinary 
beauty,  she  married  at  an  early  age  Lord  Ellen- 
borough,  then  eloped  with  a German  Baron,  and  after- 
wards became  the  wife  of  a Greek  Count,  whose  friends 
persuaded  him  to  separate  from  her.  Subsequently 
having  been  rescued  from  danger  in  travelling  to 
Palmyra  by  her  escort,  a fine-looking  Sheikh  and  chief 
of  a tribe  of  Bedouins,  she  was  enamoured  with  him 
and  became  his  wife,  remaining  so  for  many  years  to 
the  present  time.  She  is  now  over  sixty  years  of  age, 
and  lives  in  a fine  house  fitted  up  in  the  oriental  style, 
having  one  of  the  best  gardens  attached  to  be  found 
in  Damascus.  She  is  supported  mostly  by  an  income 
from  her  English  connections,  and  is  known  in  English 
circles  as  Lady  Digby.  * 

Her  ladyship  received  us  in  a very  cordial  manner, 
but  was  suffering  with  a sprained  ankle  caused  by  a 
fall  from  her  horse  some  weeks  previous.  She  insisted, 
however,  in  showing  us  through  her  suite  of  rooms, 
which  embraced  a square  saloon  and  a pretty  octagonal 
one  connected  and  richly  decorated  in  oriental  style. 
I noticed  on  the  walls  the  beautiful  painting  of  herself 
when  young,  and  that  of  her  father  the  renowned 
Admiral.  She  alluded  freely  to  the  great  change  in 
her  looks,  showed  us  a photograph  of  her  Sheikh,  then 
absent;  and  her  frankness,  general  deportment,  and 
conversation  were  prepossessing,  and  evinced  quite  a 


* Lady  Digby  has  recently  died. 


ARRIVAL  AT  STOURA. 


147 


change  in  the  once  gay  Lady  Ellenborough.  Although 
having  plenty  of  servants,  she  insisted  on  accompanying 
us  through  the  garden  to  the  stables,  where  were  some 
fine  horses,  and  in  the  yard  some  gazelles  and  a col- 
lection of  poultry.  We  were  then  shown  her  summer- 
house, with  a handsome  suite  of  apartments  in  oriental 
style,  a fountain  in  the  centre  of  the  smoking  room, 
the  whole  building  carefully  screened  by  trees  and 
shrubbery  from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  Having  gratified 
a desire  to  see  one  whose  history  has  been  adverted 
to  by  several  authors,  we  left  for  the  bazaars. 

The  next  morning  all  arose  before  three  o’clock  to 
take  the  diligence  for  Stoura  where  we  expected  to 
meet  our  horses  for  Baalbec.  At  four  o’clock  we  were 
in  our  secured  places,  and  soon  after  sunrise  the  cold 
morning  mist  gave  way  to  occasional  sunshine.  Having 
crossed  the  first  range  of  mountains,  some  of  whose 
summits  are  about  7000  feet  high,  we  entered  the  plain 
from  which  the  other  Lebanon  range  looked  beautiful 
in  sunshine  and  shadow.  Stoura  was  reached  at  eleven 
o’clock  where  our  horses  were  in  waiting,  and  we  then 
left  the  diligence  to  have  a hot  breakfast  at  the  res- 
taurant preparatory  to  starting  for  Baalbec. 


10* 


LETTER  Y. 


A PLEASANT  EIDE  TO  BAALBEC — SLEEP  IN  AN  ABAB 

HOUSE A STOBMY  NIGHT VISIT  TO  THE  GEEAT 

TEMPLES  AND  QUABEIES — A STOBMY  DAY’S  EIDE  TO 
STOUEA — A NIGHT  AT  THE  EE  ST  AUE  ANT — A EINE 

DAY  AND  DILIGENCE  EIDE  TO  BEYEOUT PEEPAEA- 

TIONS  EOE  DEPAETUEE EMBAEK  EOE  EUBOPE  — 

PAETING  WITH  OUE  FAITHFUL  EGYPTIANS — VOYAGE 
ALONG  THE  COAST  OF  SYEI A— -CONCLUSION. 


While  the  diligence  stopped  its  usual  hour  and  we 
were  at  breakfast,  the  clouds  on  the  mountains  looked 
so  dense  and  threatening,  the  ladies  abandoned  the 
idea  of  a two  day’s  ride  on  horseback  in  such  un- 
certain weather,  and  concluded  to  return  by  the 
diligence  to  Beyrout,  Mr.  L.  also  wisely  deciding  to 
accompany  them.  Being  provided  with  rubber  gar- 
ments , I determined  to  go  if  even  alone , but  the 
Doctor  was  as  anxious  to  visit  the  great  ruins  as  my- 
self, and  after  the  diligence  left  we  were  soon  mounted, 
choosing  the  best  of  the  six  horses,  which  with  their 
attendants  followed  us  and  El  Adli.  We  took  the 
precaution  to  engage  for  sleeping  the  night  of  the 
following  day  on  our  return,  the  only  obtainable  room, 


BAALBEC. 


149 


that  of  the  salle-a-manger  of  the  restaurant,  ordering 
also  a hot  dinner  to  be  ready  for  us.  The  French- 
man and  his  wife  who  keep  it,  appropriate  the  rest 
of  the  snug  quarters  for  themselves,  and  some  employes 
of  the  company  stationed  here. 

Soon  after  starting,  the  weather  cleared  up  finely, 
and  we  had  a delightful  ride  of  five  and  a half  hours 
through  the  valley,  between  the  Lebanon  and  Anti- 
Lebanon  range  of  mountains,  which  were  covered  with 
snow,  and  in  alternate  sunshine  and  shadow  looked 
very  beautiful.  On  arriving  at  the  confines  of  Baalbec, 
only  a small  miserable  village,  near  which  the  ruins 
raise  their  majestic  heads,  we  parted  from  El  Adli, 
leaving  him  to  arrange  for  our  night’s  quarters,  and 
galopped  toward  the  temples,  entering  their  midst  just 
before  sunset  shed  its  parting  rays  upon  the  walls  of 
these  wondrous  monuments  of  art  and  architecture,  of 
which  we  took  a survey,  and  reluctantly  left  for  our 
lodgings.  These  we  found  were  engaged  in  the  house 
of  a Christian  Arab,  whose  family  did  all  they  could 
to  make  us  comfortable.  Fires  were  lighted,  dinner 
cooked,  and  tolerable  beds  made  for  us  on  the  floor, 
there  being  neither  bedsteads,  tables,  nor  chairs — all 
useless  furniture  • in  an  Arab  house.  In  the  evening, 
we  gathered  with  them  around  a fire  in  an  adjoining 
room,  and  seated  on  mats  kept  up  a lively  conver- 
sation, El  Adli  acting  as  interpreter. 

A storm  of  rain  with  thunder  and  lightning  prevailed 
for  some  hours  in  the  night,  but  did  not  prevent  us 
from  having  a good  repose.  After  a hot  breakfast 
from  our  canteen,  the  rain  ceasing,  we  again  visited 
the  temples  of  Jupiter  and  the  Sun,  surrounded  by  im- 
mense walls  and  towers.  The  subterranean  passages 


150 


LETTER  V. 


by  which  we  entered  are  on  a grander  scale  than 
anything  of  the  kind  I ever  beheld.  The  origin  of 
these  temples  is  not  known,  but  Persians,  Greeks 
and  Romans  have  in  turn  possessed  them,  and  in 
639  A.  d.  they  were  pillaged  by  the  Arabs.  The 
fortress  was  partially  destroyed  by  the  warlike  Tartar, 
Tamerlane,  having  suffered  much  in  the  wars  of  the 
crusades.  Some  of  the  foundation  stones  are  63  feet 
long,  15  wide,  and  13  thick.  There  are  many  ashlers 
in  the  walls  20  feet  above  their  foundation  which 
measure  30  by  15  feet  and  13  feet  in  thickness.  The 
two  temples,  together  with  a circular  one  were  built 
upon  an  immense  platform  raised  30  feet  above  the 
plain.  That  of  the  Sun  was  290  by  160  feet,  and 
had  54  Corinthian  columns  75  feet  high  and  over 
7 feet  diameter  at  the  base.  The  huge  cap  stones 
reaching  from  pillar  to  pillar  were  clamped'  together 
with  wrought  iron  a foot  in  thickness.  Only  a small 
remnant  of  the  once  majestic  colonnade  now  remains 
standing,  other  parts  lie  strewed  around. 

The  temple  of  Jupiter,  230  feet  long  by  120  wide, 
is  in  a comparatively  perfect  state,  more  so  than  any 
other  in  Syria.  No  description  can  convey  any  adequate 
idea  of  the  grandeur  of  its  architecture,  the  beautiful 
details  of  which  serve  as  models  for  the  finest  speci-  x 
mens  of  modern  ornamentation.  These  temples  combine  V 
the  Doric,  Tuscan,  and  Corinthian  orders  with  the 
Jewish;  it  is  supposed  that  Solomon  built  them  for 
his  Jewish  wife,  and  that  his  idolatrous  successors  • 
t?on^^afe3*TFe  one  to  the  worship  of  the  Sun.  We 
ascended  a high  broken  arch  by  a circular  stairway 
within  the  wall,  and  crossed  on  its  top,  over  the  half 
dropped -out  key- stone,  to  the  adjoining  walls  of  a 


A STORMY  DAY. 


151 


gigantic  loopholed  tower,  into  which  we  entered  near 
its  summit.  A fine  view  was  had  from  here,  and  a 
curious  stone  observed  lying  in  the  tower  covered  with 
hieroglyphics. 

Returning  to  our  lodgings,  we  hastened  our  de- 
parture, as  it  was  nearly  eleven  o’clock,  and  the 
weather,  already  rainy,  threatened  a bad  day  for  our 
return.  About  a mile  distant  we  stopped  to  view  the 
quarries  which  supplied  the  large  stones  for  the  walls 
alluded  to.  Here  we  saw  a solid  piece  of  stone  hewn 
on  its  four  sides,  lying  in  its  original  bed,  measuring 
69  feet  in  length,  17  wide  and  14  thick!  Soon  after 
leaving,  we  encountered  a sudden  and  severe  storm  of 
hail  and  wind  which  broke  my  umbrella  in  pieces,  carried 
my  hat  far  into  a field,  and  caused  my  horse  to  face 
about  until  the  worst  was  over.  Fortunately  I had 
with  my  Macintosh  a rubber  cap  with  a cape,  which 
effectually  protected  my  head  and  neck.  We  proceeded 
on  as  fast  as  possible , meeting  successive  showers 
of  mingled  hail  and  rain  with  wfind,  which  came 
through  the  valley  directly  in  our  faces.  The  roads 
became  wet  and  muddy,  and  El  Adli,  drenched  to  the 
skin  and  chilled,  looked  desponding.  An  extra  coat 
was  spared  him,  and  a little  artificial  warmth  admin- 
istered as  well  as  to  ourselves. 

I found  the  double  suits  of  clothing  I wore  did 
me  good  service,  though  my  face  and  hands  suffered 
from  the  cold  and  hail.  The  mud  in  the  valley  road, 
which  we  had  unfortunately  taken  as  the  shortest, 
became  so  soft  that  for  quite  a distance  our  horses 
sank  up  to  their  knees  at  every  step.  We  finally  reached 
an  Arab  village,  where,  in  the  only  Christian  hut  of 
the  place,  we  got  shelter,  were  supplied  with  a little 


152 


LETTER  V. 


fire,  and  took  our  lunch.  Refreshed  by  an  hour’s  rest, 
we  continued  our  way,  meeting  gusts  of  wind  with 
occasional  showers  from  the  two  ranges  of  the  Lebanon, 
over  which  dense  clouds  dispensed  alternately  on  sum- 
mit and  valley,  snow,  hail,  and  rain.  About  five 
miles  from  Stoura  we  ascended  a hill  on  which  is 
situated  the  large  town  of  El  Malaka,  having  ex- 
tensive silk  manufactories  and  a monastery.  From 
here  there  is  a good  macadamized  road  built  by  a 
French  company.  Night  approaching,  and  weather 
looking  worse,  we  urged  our  jaded  horses  to  the  ut- 
most, and  scarcely  drew  rein  until  we  arrived  at  the 
station  house  of  Stoura,  where  the  room  of  the  restaurant 
had  been  engaged  for  us. 

The  French  hostess  and  her  pretty  Arab  waiter 
girl  served  us  with  a hot  dinner,  and,  with  the  pure 
Lebanon  wine  made  here  by  our  host,  was  a welcome 
repast.  Nice  clean  sheets  and  comforters  were  spread 
on  the  divans  for  our  night’s  repose,  and  although 
the  storm  of  the  evening  previous  was  renewed  with 
great  fury,  accompanied  by  torrents  of  rain,  we  slept 
soundly. 

The  morning  came  with  fair  weather  and  a bright 
sun,  which  we  enjoyed  while  awaiting  the  arrival  of 
our  diligence  at  noon.  About  an  hour  before,  a party 
of  friends  with  their  Dragoman  and  camp  equipage 
arrived  from  Zableh,  where  they  had  encamped  over- 
night from  Baalbec,  and  experienced  the  bad  weather. 
They  were  en  route  for  Beyrout,  and  the  three  ladies 
were  glad  to  accept  our  proffered  vacant  coupe  in  the 
diligence  which  we  had  engaged,  and  leave  their  horses 
and  party  to  follow  them.  Our  old  places  in  the 
imperial , on  the  top  of  the  vehicle,  though  exposing  us 


EMBARKING  POR  EUROPE. 


153 


to  the  cold  on  the  summit  of  the  mountain  road, 
gave  a splendid  view,  on  our  descent,  of  the  Mediter- 
ranean, Beyrout,  and  the  valley  spread  out  before  us. 
We  arrived  at  5 Ya  o’clock,  and  were  glad  to  meet 
our  party  and  numerous  friends  at  the  hotel. 

The  following  day  early  we  secured  passages  in  the 
“Indus”  for  Smyrna,  to  touch  at  Tripoli,  Latakia, 
Alexandretta,  Mersina,  and  the  Island  of  Rhodes.  Our 
luggage  was  got  in  readiness  and  taken  to  the  steamer, 
which  was  to  leave  early  in  the  morning,  obliging  us 
to  go  on  board  the  evening  previous.  The  American 
steamer  “Canandaigua”  arrived,  and  some  of  her  officers 
dined  at  our  excellent  table  d’hote , where  thirty 
Americans,  being  a large  majority  present,  represented 
our  glorious  Republic. 

Having  settled  up  accounts  with  our  Dragoman, 
and  given  him  and  the  servants  and  cook  recommend- 
ations and  presents,  they  all  accompanied  us  on  board, 
where  they  took  an  affectionate  and  sorrowful  leave. 
The  warm  and  generous  heart  of  our  faithful  El  Adli 
was  melted  to  tears,  and  we  all  parted  with  regret 
from  those  who  had  contributed  so  much  to  our 
pleasure  and  comfort  in  Egypt  and  Syria  for  the  last 
four  months.  The  night  was  a beautiful  one,  and  we 
slept  soundly  after  retiring  at  a late  hour,  while  our 
vessel  remained  at  anchor. 

The  morning  of  the  11th  of  April  was  a lovely 
one,  and  at  an  early  hour  we  steamed  away  from  this 
handsome  port  and  town,  passing  along  the  coast  with 
its  fine  mountain  views.  Our  voyage  of  six  days, 
most  of  which  time  we  should  be  in  port,  promised 
fairly.  We  arrived  at  Tripoli  in  four  hours,  where  we 
remained  awhile,  giving  the  passengers  an  opportunity 


154 


LETTER  V. 


to  go  ashore  and  see  both  the  old  and  new  town,  the 
former  having  an  extensive  fortress.  Latakia  was 
reached  next,  about  10  p.  m.,  where  we  anchored  for 
the  night.  This  town  is  celebrated  for  its  export  of 
the  favorite  weed  for  pipes,  the  best  of  which  is  the 
gebeleh.  About  11  o’clock  the  next  morning,  with  clear 
weather  and  a smooth  sea,  we  left  for  Alexandretta, 
arriving  there  at  sunset,  which  was  a brilliant  one. 
The  large  saloon  of  the  “Indus”  was  enlivened  in  the 
evening  with  music  on  the  piano,  with  flute  accompani- 
ment, and  some  dancing. 

Another  beautiful  day  greeted  us  as  we  came  on 
deck  and  found  ourselves  lying  at  anchor  in  the  bay 
of  Alexandretta,  at  the  extreme  eastern  part  of  the 
Mediterranean,  and  nearly  encompassed  by  land,  the 
water  clear  and  smooth.  The  town  is  a mere  hamlet, 
but  steamers  await  here  the  arrival  of  the  overland 
mail  and  specie  from  Aleppo  and  Bagdad.  Cotton  and 
nutgalls  were  added  to  the  freight.  While  strolling 
ashore,  the  temperature  and  a fine  beach  invited  a 
bath,  which  some  of  us  enjoyed  very  much.  A pleasant 
evening  was  spent  on  board,  and  our  steamer  remained 
here  during  the  night. 

Our  departure  was  delayed  until  10  o’clock  the  day 
following,  and  with  the  receding  shores  of  Alexandretta 
properly  ends  our  “tour  in  Syria  and  Palestine.” 

In  conclusion *,  I will  add  that  we  were  favored 
with  fine  weather  during  our  voyage  to  Smyrna,  from 
thence  in  another  steamer  to  Constantinople,  touching 
at  Metelin  (which  had  just  been  destroyed  by  an 

* A few  useful  items  belonging  to  the  foregoing  tour 
will  be  found  with  others  relating  to  Egypt,  in  the  Ap- 
pendix. 


ARRIVAL  IN  PARIS. 


155 


earthquake),  and  after,  from  the  oriental  metropolis 
in  the  fine  steamer  “Tibre”  to  Messina,  touching  at 
Piraes,  the  port  of  Athens.  In  our  short  voyage  by 
another  steamer  from  Messina  to  Naples,  we  experienced 
the  first  rough  sea  since  leaving  Beyrout.  Our  visits 
to  these  interesting  places  were  much  enjoyed,  but 
we  found  the  middle  of  May  too  warm  a period  for 
central  Italy,  and  hastened  our  departure  for  Paris  by 
way  of  Milan,  Turin,  and  the  Mount  Cenis  pass,  ar- 
riving the  latter  part  of  the  month  at  the  gay  capital, 
where  the  UB.  W.  L.”  party  of  the  Nile  and  Holy 
Land,  commenced  examining  together  the  wonders  of 
the  Great  Universal  Exposition. 


APPENDIX. 


USEFUL  ITEMS  OF  INFORMATION  FOR  TRA- 
VELLERS IN  EGYPT. 


No  passports  are  required  after  leaving  Europe, 
but  it  is  best  to  have  one  with  you,  as  it  identifies 
your  nationality  in  case  of  need. 

Money  of  any  kind  can  readily  be  had  from  the 
bankers  on  whom  you  have  credits,  and  it  is  not 
necessary  to  take  any  more  than  for  your  expenses 
to  Alexandria  or  Cairo.  French  and  English  gold  is 
generally  used  (the  former  is  preferable),  and  can  al- 
ways be  exchanged  for  small  silver  money  of  the 
country,  which  is  piastres  and  paras.  A Napoleon  is 
worth  97  and  a sovereign  121  current  piastres,  varying 
according  to  the  rate  of  exchange.  Prices,  however 
at  all  government  offices,  including  the  railroad,  are 
made  in  Egyptian  silver  piastres  which  are  worth  5 
paras  more  than  the  Turkish  or  current  piastre, 
and  only  77 — 5 of  these  are  given  for  the  Napoleon, 
and  97 — 20  for  the  pound  sterling.  They  are  worth 
40  paras , and  divided  into  Va,  7*  and  % pieces. 
There  are  other  coins  current,  such  as  the  Austrian 
zwanziger,  and  Russian  20  and  25  kopeck  pieces. 


APPENDIX. 


157 


Letters  and  papers  should  be  sent  to  care  of  your 
banker  in  Cairo,  who  will  forward  them,  according  to 
the  time  you  desire,  by  the  Egyptian  letter  post.  This 
is  despatched  by  Arab  runners  across  the  desert,  and 
all  letters"  and  papers  should  be  directed  to  care  of 
the  Consul  at  Thebes,  so  as  not  to  run  the  risk  of 
missing  them  at  other  towns  on  the  river. 

For  articles  of  clothing , the  climate  will  suggest 
what  ought  to  be  taken,  but  dress  suits,  except  a 
coat,  are  quite  needless  up  the  Nile.  As  little  should 
be  taken  as  possible,  the  room  in  a boat  not  ad- 
mitting of  much  luggage,  without  great  inconvenience, 
neither  will  it  be  required.  The  following  are  most 
useful:  A cloth  travelling  suit;  riding  pants,  or  can- 
vas leggings;  flannel  shirts  with  or  without  collars; 
paper  collars  (laundry  arrangements  are  very  limited 
on  board) ; a thick  knit  woollen  vest,  or  short  gilet  de 
chasse , to  be  worn  between  the  coat  and  ordinary 
vest;  a long  dressing-gown;  a thin  overcoat;  a light 
hat  with  broad  brim  covered  with  muslin  (to  be  had 
in  Cairo);  a fez;  light  shoes  of  canvas  cloth  (no  thick 
boots  are  necessary  unless  duck  - shooting  is  pursued 
away  from  the  river , which  is  rarely  done) ; a foot- 
warmer  heated  with  hot  water. 

For  sporting ; double-barrel  breech-loading  fowling- 
pieces,  and  a modern  rifle  with  equipments,  to  be 
bought  with  fixed  ammunition  in  London,  Paris,  or 
Marseilles,  not  omitting  materials  for  cleaning. 

A good  field- glass,  and  colored  glasses  with  wire 
protectors  for  the  eyes,  should  be  bought  in  Paris  or 
London:  a white  umbrella  with  dark  lining  in  Cairo. 

Flags  of  all  ldnds  and  pennants  can  be  purchased 
or  made  in  Cairo.  Hadkinson,  an  English  tailor  in 


158 


APPENDIX. 


the  rear  of  the  Esbekieh,  and  another  one  in  the 
bazaar,  will  supply  them.  The  flag  should  be  about 
9 by  12  feet  and  pennants  from  30  to  60  feet  in 
length  by  15  to  20  inches  wide  at  the  mast  end,  and 
tapered  to  a point. 

Wines  and  liquors  it  is  best  to  purchase  at 
Alexandria.  Ebenezer  Thomas  has  all  kinds,  and  sells 
a pure  and  genuine  article  at  a fair  advance  on  the 
cost.  Bordeaux  and  Marsala,  mostly  the  former,  are 
best  for  the  Nile,  although  the  water  of  the  river, 
filtered  on  board,  is  exceedingly  palatable,  and  contains 
nothing  deleterious  to  health.  Some  desirable  articles 
mentioned  in  one  of  the  letters,  can  be  purchased  of 
John  S.  Martin,  Marseilles. 

Tea  it  is  best  to  purchase  in  Europe.  Should  it 
not  be  done,  select  it  for  your  Dragoman  in  Alexan- 
dria or  Cairo.  English  butter  must  be  bought  in 
Alexandria. 

See  that  the  Dragoman  selects  all  the  proper 
articles  for  the  voyage  with  reference  to  kinds  and 
quantities,  about  which  the  tastes  of  travellers  differ 
so  widely. 

Before  selecting  a boat,  examine  it  well  behind  the 
wood  casings,  within  the  drawers,  and  under  deck,  to 
ascertain  whether  it  is  free  from  a bad  odor  or  ver- 
min. Flies  abound  on  the  Nile,  but  only  a few  mus- 
quitoes  and  rarely  any  fleas  in  a clean  boat.  Nets 
however  should  be  provided,  and  it  is  important  to 
see  that  there  is  a good  supply  of  blankets.  A French 
lamp  is  very  useful  and  can  be  purchased  in  Cairo. 
See  that  the  best  of  oil  is  furnished,  with  extra  wicks 
and  shades. 

Medicines  can  be  obtained  from  an  English  apothe- 


APPENDIX. 


159 


cary  at  Cairo.  Such  rules  of  health  as  apply  to  a 
tropical  climate  should  be  observed.  Temperance  in 
eating  and  drinking,  especially  strong  alcoholic  drinks, 
avoiding  a continued  perspiration,  wet  clothes,  a too 
long  exposure  to  the  night  air,  sitting  in  a draught, 
should  be  observed.  A narrow  belt,  or  a sash  worn 
tightly  around  the  waist  beneath  the  clothing,  is  a 
good  sanitary  precaution  against  diseases  of  the  bowels 
in  warm  climates.  There  are  but  few  diseases  in 
Egypt.  Fevers  are  rare,  and  diarrhoea,  dysentery,  and 
opthalmia  are  the  principal  ones  travellers  on  the 
Nile  are  liable  to. 

But  little  money  need  be  taken  up  the  river,  as 
only  a few  articles  other  than  antiquities  are  to  be 
purchased  there.  The  novice  in  these  must  be  on  his 
guard  against  spurious  scarabei , to  be  met  with 
principally  at  Thebes.  Mustapha  Aga  the  consul  there, 
is  a good  judge  of  them. 

While  treating  the  Dragoman  and  servants  with 
kindness,  it  is  very  important  from  the  first  to  avoid 
a useless  familiarity  that  sometimes  breeds  contempt 
of  authority,  and  at  all  times  assert  your  rights  firmly. 
All  orders  not  inconsistent  with  your  contract  should 
be  obeyed  by  your  Dragoman,  who  engages  himself 
as  a servant,  not  as  an  equal  in  authority.  Good 
discipline  on  board  is  essential  for  the  enjoyment  of 
the  voyage. 

When  there  is  more  than  one  gentleman  in  a party 
equally  interested,  it  is  better  to  have  one  act  as 
captain,  by  turns  or  otherwise.  After  deliberation  and 
decision  among  the  party  on  matters  of  the  voyage, 
all  wishes  or  orders  can  then  be  communicated  through 
that  officer. 


160 


APPENDIX. 


The  hours  of  stopping  which  are  made  at  the  re- 
quest and  on  account  of  the  party  should  be  noted 
down,  and  a memorandum  of  the  same  given  to  the 
Dragoman  for  the  reis  of  the  boat. 

Many  opportunities  can  be  had  for  shore  excursions 
when  the  boat  is  tracking  or  otherwise  unavoidably 
delayed,  and  several  times  on  the  upward  and  down- 
ward voyage  while  the  crew  stop  to  bake  bread. 
These  are  not  included  in  the  time  given  in  the  con- 
tract for  stoppages. 

The  steamers  of  the  Messageries  Imperial es  leave 
Marseilles  for  Alexandria  touching  only  at  Messina,  on 
the  9th,  19th,  and  29th  of  each  month.  Time  6 days. 
Those  of  the  Peninsular  and  Oriental  line  every  week, 
touching  at  Malta,  in  7 days.  The  Austrian  Lloyd’s 
from  Trieste,  touching  at  Corfu,  every  week,  in  5 days. 
The  Italian  line  from  Brindisi,  every  week,  in  3 1/2t  days.  * 


ITEMS  FOR  A TOUR  IN  SYRIA  AND  PALESTINE. 

This  tour  can  be  made  to  the  best  advantage  in 
the  month  of  October,  and  the  latter  part  of  March  and 
the  month  of  April.  It  is  best  to  take  tents  from  Jeru- 
salem, if  the  desert  route  is  avoided,  and  Jaffa  is 
taken  as  the  point  of  departure,  where  horses  and 
guides  can  be  had  for  the  former  city.  Syrian  Dra- 
goman and  Jewish  local  guides  are  preferable.  They 
understand  the  country  and  people  better,  by  the 
same  rule  that  applies  to  Egypt,  where  native  Drago- 


* See  changes  since  of  steamers,  in  their  advertisements. 


APPENDIX. 


161 


men  are  to  be  preferred  to  foreign.  Of  course  there 
are  exceptions  to  this,  and  the  traveller  must  be  his 
own  judge  by  the  experience  he  meets  with. 

Tents  should  be  carefully  examined  before  adopted, 
with  reference  to  their  quality,  which  should  be  water- 
proof or  best  English  canvas;  and  the  form  of  the 
roof,  which  should  have  eaves  projecting  to  shed  the 
rain  from  the  sides.  They  should  be  provided  with 
clean  carpets,  folding  chairs  with  backs,  and  portable 
washstands.  Gimblets  will  serve  a good  purpose  for 
hanging  up  clothes  to  the  tent  poles.  Pieces  of  oil- 
cloth about  6 feet  square  for  the  ground,  and  smaller 
pieces  for  bundles  of  luggage,  are  very  useful.  Cheap 
portmanteaus  can  be  bought  in  Alexandria  for  neces- 
sary luggage,  and  trunks  containing  other  baggage  can 
be  left  with  the  steamer’s  agents  in  Jaffa  or  Beyrout. 

Contract  for  good  English  side-saddles,  if  any  are 
needed,  and  see  that  your  others  are  comfortable  and 
in  proper  order;  also  try  your  horses  before  starting. 
Although  there  is  now  no  danger  to  be  apprehended, 
it  is  best  to  be  provided  with  good  fire-arms.  Sporting 
guns  will  be  only  an  incumbrance. 

Some  of  the  foregoing  items  for  Egypt  relating  to 
money,  letters,  papers  and  clothing,  it  will  be  seen 
apply  to  this  journey. 

Note.  The  new  Hotel  in  Cairo  is  now  (November  1867) 
opened,  and  a road  is  rapidly  being  built  between  Jaffa 
and  Jerusalem. 


11 


162 


APPENDIX. 


PROVISIONS  OF  THE  “GAZELLE”  FURNISHED  BY 
THE  DRAGOMAN. 

A Quarter  of  Beef  at  Cairo — Live  Sheep  — Turkeys 
— Geese — Chickens — Pigeons  — Flour — Rice — Macca- 
roni  — V ermicelli — Potatoes — Beans  — Lentils  — Onions 

— Groats  — Tapioca  — Sago  — Arrowroot — Oatmeal  — 
Maizena — Dried  Salt  Cod  Fish  — English  Hams  — 
Smoked  Tongues  — Herrings  — Cheshire  and  Dutch 
Cheeses — English  Table  Butter — Native  Cooking  Butter 
— Split  Peas — Eggs — Tea — Mocha  Coffee  — Chocolate 
— Loaf  Sugar — Sweet  Biscuit — Hard  Biscuit — Ginger 
Cakes — Sweet  Cakes — Sugar  Almonds — Honey — Dried 
Apricots — Dried  Prunes.  The  following  canned  articles: 
— Sardines,  Mock  Turtle  Soup,  Green  Peas,  Beans, 
Cauliflower,  Salsify,  Champignons,  Tomatoes,  Concen- 
trated Milk,  Oysters,  Mincemeat  for  Pies, — English 
Plum-Puddings.  iUso  the  following  kinds  of  Preserves 
in  Jars: — Scotch  Marmalade,  Raspberry,  Strawberry, 
Greengage  Plums,  Red  Currant  Jelly,  Apricots,  Damsons, 
Peaches.  Four  kinds  of  English  Pickles — Essences — 
Curry  Powder — Sweet  Syrup — Oil — Mustard — Vinegar 

— Salt  — Pepper  — English  Sauces  — Lemon  Syrup  — 
Raisins — Figs — Almonds — Walnuts — Oranges — Apples 
— Pears — Bananas — Fresh  Vegetables  in  season  — Soap 
— Oil — Candles. 


ARTICLES  FURNISHED  BY  THE  PARTY. 

60  tin  Lanterns  made  in  Cairo  for  illuminations. 

2 brass  Signal  Lanterns  with  colored  Globes. 

Oil  and  Candles  for  above — Flag,  Pennants  and  Hal- 
liards. 


APPENDIX. 


163 


Guns,  Pistols,  and  Sporting  Equipments. 

Drums  and  Tamborines  for  crew.  Dusters  for  flies  in 
boat. 

Fishhooks  and  Lines.  Shoe-brushes  and  Blacking. 
Guide  and  other  Books,  Maps,  Measuring  Tape  — 
Compass — Thermometer. 


The  following  are  very  useful  and  are  seldom  found 
on  board,  viz.:  a Hammer,  Chisel,  small  Saw,  Files, 
Screwdriver,  Gimlets,  Pliers,  Nails  and  Tacks,  Screws, 
Cord  and  Twine,  small  Hooks  for  hanging  up  articles, 
extra  Windowglass,  Putty  and  Tins  to  set  the  same. 


Medicines,  &c.,  best  for  the  voyage,  are:  Rhubarb, 
Castor  Oil,  Seidlitz  Powders,  Quinine,  Laudanum, 
Nitre,  Diarrhoea  Mixture,  Essence  of  Peppermint, 
Brown’s  Essence  of  Ginger  (Swann  no.  12  Hue  Casti- 
glione,  Paris  is  the  Agent),  Cream  of  Tartar,  Arnica, 
Liniment,  Lint,  Sticking  Plaster,  Eye  Wash. 


11* 


164 


APPENDIX. 


TEMPERATURE  IN  THE  SALOON  OF  THE  DAHABEEH 
“GAZELLE”  DURING  65  DAYS  ON  THE  NILE. 


Deer. 

21 

Sunrise. 

65 

2P.M. 

72 

8 P.M. 

Wind — Weather, 
calm  and  clear. 

22 

58 

65 

60 

S.  breeze  and  clear. 

55 

23 

56 

— 

— 

S.S.W.  and  cloudy. 

55 

24 

56 

65 

— 

same. 

55 

25 

56 

65 

— 

same. 

55 

26 

60 

— 

— 

same  and  clear. 

55 

27 

60 

75 

70 

N.  breeze  and  clear. 

55 

28 

50 

70 

— 

same. 

55 

29 

50 

65 

68 

same. 

55 

30 

54 

70 

69 

S.E.  breeze  and  clear. 

55 

31 

58 

70 

70 

same. 

Jan. 

1 

62 

75 

70 

calm,  clear. 

55 

2 

60 

— 

70 

N.  breeze,  clear. 

55 

3 

45 

— 

70 

foggy  morn.  same. 

55 

55 

4 

56 

— 

— 

N.  breeze,  same. 

5 

60 

70 

70 

cloudy  and  calm. 

55 

6 

56 

— 

65 

same. 

55 

7 

64 

75 

70 

N.  wind;  partly  cloudy. 

55 

8 

56 

77 

70 

S.  light  and  clear. 

55 

9 

60 

79 

70 

N.  same. 

55 

10 

54 

75 

— 

N.  fresh  and  clear. 

55 

11 

54 

77 

— 

W.  light  and  clear. 

55 

12 

56 

75 

73 

calm  and  clear. 

55 

13 

58 

73 

— 

same. 

55 

14 

58 

— 

— 

same. 

55 

15 

54 

80 

78 

same. 

55 

16 

60 

78 

— 

same. 

55 

17 

58 

75 

— 

same. 

55 

18 

58 

78 

— 

same. 

55 

19 

58 

80 

— 

N.  fresh  W.  and  clear. 

55 

20 

62 

79 

— 

calm  and  clear. 

55 

21 

56 

80 

— 

same. 

55 

22 

56 

80 

— 

same. 

55 

23 

56 

80 

70 

same. 

55 

24 

60 

— 

— 

cloudy  and  strong  S.  win 

55 

25 

60 

— 

70 

same. 

APPENDIX. 


1G5 


Jan. 

26 

Sunrise. 

54 

2 P.M. 
68 

SP.M. 

69 

)> 

27 

50 

70 

65 

55 

28 

52 

— 

— 

55 

29 

54 

78 

70 

55 

30 

58 

— 

— 

55 

31 

60 

79 

75 

Febry. 

1 

52 

— 

70 

2 

54 

— 

70 

55 

3 

60 

75 

70 

4 

58 

78 

72 

5 

60 

70 

68 

55 

6 

56 

— 

— 

55 

7 

54 

— 

65 

55 

8 

52 

75 

70 

55 

9 

48 

— 

65 

55 

10 

47 

— 

60 

55 

11 

50 

68 

65 

55 

12 

52 

62 

— 

55 

13 

50 

— 

65 

55 

14 

47 

75 

65 

55 

15 

45 

— 

60 

55 

16 

46 

68 

— 

55 

17 

50 

— 

70 

55 

18 

52 

76 

65 

55 

19 

52 

74 

‘ 68 

55 

20 

50 

70 

68 

55 

21 

54 

70 

68 

55 

22 

52 

— ‘ 

64 

55 

23 

52 

66 

— 

Wind — Weatlier. 
cloudy  and  strong  S.  wind, 
light  N.  wind,  clear, 
same. 

slightly  cloudy. 

N.  wind,  clear, 
calm  and  clear, 
same, 
same, 
same, 
same. 

strong  N.  wind,  clear, 
same, 
same, 
same. 

light  same, 
same. 

variable  and  clear, 
strong  N.  wind, 
same,  clear, 
light  N.  wind,  clear, 
fresh  ditto,  clouds, 
moderate  breeze,  clear, 
calm  and  clear, 
fresh  breeze,  clear, 
calm  and  cloudy, 
calm,  foggy,  and  breeze, 
calm,  clear  and  breeze. 
S.W.  wind,  cloudy. 

S.W.  breeze,  clear. 


Note.  The  saloon  in  which  the  foregoing  temperature  was  tak  n, 
had  no  artificial  warmth  and  was  always  within  3 to  5 degrees  of  the 
heat  in  the  shade  outside. 


END  OF  APPENDIX. 


PRINTED  BY  F.  A.  BROCKHAUS,  LEIPZIG. 


